Tenaya Iati vs Oasi

As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

I thought that a post devoted specifically to Oasi vs Iati would be helpful for most of you.

Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my  Scarpa Origin vs Force V and La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Finale posts if you're a newbie.

But, if you're climbing for a long time and looking for perfomance-based climbing shoes, then go on.

Shortly, if you're looking for a shoe that excels at technical climbing and bouldering, then Tenaya Iati is the way to go. BUT if you're looking for a shoe that can handle a wide variety of climbing styles and keep your feet comfortable all day, the Tenaya Oasi is a great choice.

Both Iati and Oasi are aggressively downturned and high-performance climbing shoes.

Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Tenaya's own size guide (it's great, I'd definitely recommend to you guys!).

RUBBER

Both the Tenaya Iati and Oasi feature Tenaya's proprietary "Vibram XS Grip2" rubber.

This rubber is known for its excellent grip and durability and is used on various climbing shoes.

The Vibram XS Grip2 rubber is a stickier rubber compound than the previous Vibram XS Edge, it offers improved grip, sensitivity, and durability.

The rubber on the Tenaya Iati is 3.5mm thick and offers maximum grip and sensitivity, making it ideal for technical climbing and bouldering. The rubber on the Tenaya Oasi is also 3.5mm thick, but it is slightly softer than the rubber on the Iati, which allows for more comfort and versatility.

Both shoes also feature a unique "randing" system that wraps the rubber around the shoe's upper, providing added durability and support. This randing system is designed to withstand the rigors of climbing and provide long-lasting performance.

SIZING

The Tenaya Iati and Oasi are both available in a range of sizes, it is important to note that climbing shoes should fit snugly, as a looser fit can affect your performance and comfort.

The Tenaya Iati has a medium-to-narrow fit, so if you have a wider foot, you may want to consider going up a half size down.

 The Oasi has a medium fit, so it should accommodate most foot shapes comfortably. 

You can check Tenaya's size guide here.

It's also worth noting that both shoes have a unique "moulding system" that allows the shoes to adapt to the shape of your feet over time, providing a customized fit. This can help with comfort and performance, but it also means that it might take some time to break in the shoes, and they might feel tight or uncomfortable at first.

Tenaya Iati Sizing

Because of they are made out of microfiber and lined leather, the Iati should stretch roughly half a size. 

I recommend sizing a half-size to a full-size down from your regular climbing shoe size.

 Go with 1-1.5 size down if you like tight. If you're looking for a bit of comfort you can go with 0.5 sizes down.

Tenaya Oasi Sizing

The Oasi only stretches about 1/4 size (approximately, maybe a bit more but not much).  My recommendation is that you can go down 0.5-1 size from your street shoes

TOE BOX

The toe box of the Tenaya Iati and Oasi are both designed to provide a secure and comfortable fit, with a few key differences.

The Tenaya Iati is downturned and aggressively shaped, providing maximum power transfer to the toes, making it easier to stick to small holds. This design is optimized for technical climbing and bouldering, allowing for precise footwork on steep and overhanging routes. The toe box of the Iati is also asymmetric, providing a more aggressive and precise fit for the big toe, which results in better performance on small edges and pockets.

The Tenaya Oasi, on the other hand, is more neutral and less aggressive in shape, providing more versatility and comfort for all-day climbing. The toe box of the Oasi is more symmetric and less downturned, providing a more relaxed and comfortable fit for the toes, which results in better performance on long routes and multi-pitch climbing.

Both shoes have a generous toe box, allowing the toes to spread out and providing a comfortable fit, even during extended periods of use.

DIFFERENCES

While the Tenaya Iati and Oasi share several key similarities, there are also some key differences between the two shoes. Here are a few of the main differences:

• The Tenaya Iati is more aggressive and excels at technical climbing and bouldering, while the Tenaya Oasi is more versatile and comfortable, making it great for all-day climbing and multi-pitch climbing.
  
  
• The Tenaya Iati features an asymmetric and downturned toe box that is optimized for precise footwork on steep and overhanging routes, while the Tenaya Oasi features a more neutral and symmetric toe box that is optimized for a relaxed and comfortable fit on long routes and multi-pitch climbing.
  
  
• The Tenaya Iati features a medium-to-narrow fit, while the Tenaya Oasi features a medium fit.
  
  
• The Tenaya Iati has a more aggressive and downturned heel design that is optimized for technical climbing and bouldering, while the Tenaya Oasi has a more neutral and less aggressive heel design that is optimized for all-day climbing and multi-pitch climbing.
  
  
• The Tenaya Iati is made of synthetic upper, while the Oasi is made of leather upper.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

IATI

• Upper: Microfibre & Leather
• Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
• Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
• Lining: TXT treated cotton
• Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
• Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
• Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
• Weight: 340 gr.

The Tenaya Iati is a high-performance climbing shoe known for its durability and long-lasting performance.

The Tenaya Iati is designed to be aggressive and excels at technical climbing and bouldering, with an asymmetric and downturned toe box that is optimized for precise footwork on steep and overhanging routes and a medium-to-narrow fit.

OASI

• Upper: Microfibre
• Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
• Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
• Lining: TXT treated cotton
• Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
• Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
• Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
• Weight: 340 gr.

The Tenaya Oasi is a high-performance climbing shoe known for its versatility and comfort.

The Tenaya Oasi is designed to be versatile and comfortable for all-day climbing and multi-pitch climbing, with a more neutral and symmetric toe box that is optimized for a relaxed and comfortable fit on long routes.

 The shoe also features a leather upper that is designed to withstand the rigors of climbing and provide long-lasting performance. The Oasi has a medium fit and is suitable for most foot shapes.