Best Scarpa Climbing Shoes

As most of you know, as a big fanboy and devoted first-hand customer; I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now (see full post list at the bottom).

Recently I'm getting asked a lot about my best Scarpa climbing shoe picks, so here you go.

Hope this guide helps you.

Before we dive into it; I'd highly recommend you check out Scarpa's Climbing Collection Structure and Scarpa's own Comparison Chart as well.

Let's continue. Now, Here's a question you must ask yourself before anything;

Now, let's get to the bolts and nuts.

Best Bouldering Climbing Shoe: Scarpa Instinct VSR

Scarpa Instinct VSR is moderately downturned with a slightly asymmetric climbing shoe which gives you a balance of toe power, flex, and comfort.

This shoe is designed for the climber who has a higher volume (wide) foot with a center-shaped shoe toe.

Specifically, when it comes to bouldering, Scarpa Instinct VSR is the best bouldering climbing shoe option in Scarpa's line-up.

I hesitated between Scarpa Instinct VS and Scarpa Instinct VSR because they're almost identical climbing shoe.

BUT, there's an important difference between these shoes which is their rubber compound that helps me to choose Scarpa Instinct VSR as the best bouldering climbing shoes. 

Scarpa Instinct VSR comes with a 3.5 mm XS Grip 2 sole with a hand-constructed 2 mm XS Grip Heel.

The Vibram XS Grip 2 is a rubber compound that gives you pure friction and superior grip. That's all I need when I go bouldering!

Also, Scarpa Instinct VSR has some great features;

(1) Upper: Full microfiber upper with a single velcro strap and deep y attachment for secure hooking.

(2) Insole: Half-length Flexan 1 mm instert spreads the force in the forefoot and allows for excellent flexibility in the rear of the shoe.

(3) Active Randing: Bi-Tension active randing system runs under the toes and draws back through the arch of the foot to give great flex with subtle tension.

(4) Sole: The Vibram XS Grip 2 which I mentioned earlier.

You may think this numbering is for bullets but no. Please check if you wonder why I numbered features and see how Scarpa Instinct VSR assembles.

For usage, I'd definitely recommend going with Scarpa Instinct VSR if you're planning to go to sport climbing and indoor and outdoor bouldering.

Scarpa Instinct VSR Sizing

The manufacturer suggests purchasing these shoes in your street size. However, for experienced boulderers, it's recommended to go down at least one size, if not more, for optimal performance. It's essential to try on a few sizes before making a final decision.

As a reference, I (the tester) wore these shoes one size smaller than my street size. The general rule of thumb is to go down a size for improved performance and up a size for increased comfort.

It's worth noting that the Scarpa Instinct VSR tends to stretch a bit over time, and you may find the shoe expands up to half a size once it's broken in. This is due to the softer rubber used in the construction of the shoes.

Specs

• Upper: Microsuede & Leather
• Last: FV - Curved Profile / Asymmetric
• Weight: 8.1 oz per shoe (230 g)
• Profile: Moderately Downturned
• Symmetry:  Slightly Asymmetric
• Closure: Strap
• Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm
• Sole Rubber: Vibram® XS Grip 2™ (forefoot), 2 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ (heel)

Best Climbing Shoe For Beginners: Scarpa Origin

Scarpa Origin is a flat profile with a neutral asymmetry climbing shoe that gives you excellent comfort and flexibility.

This shoe is designed for the climber who has a medium-volume foot with a center-shaped shoe toe.

SO, Scarpa Origin shines like a diamond when it comes to comfortable shoes in Scarpa's line-up. Therefore, the Origin is the best climbing shoe for beginners.

Let me tell you that I was thinking about which shoes are the best climbing shoes for beginners; Scarpa Origin or Scarpa Helix while I was trying to choose. BUT, after I tried many sessions, I can easily say that you can go with the Origin without hesitation if you're a newbie.

Scarpa Origin comes with a 4 mm Vision rubber which is ideal for balance between friction and durability.

Vision Rubber is a special compound that is both sticky and durable for all kinds of climbing which is essential for newbies.

Okay, let's look at some features of Scarpa Origin;

(1) Upper: 1.8 mm Suede upper offers exceptional comfort by being unstitched over the toes. Easy entry is ensured by twin reverse Velcro straps and a high-stretch gusset.

(2) Insole: A 3/4 length 1.4 mm nylon insert, extending from heel to toe, effectively distributes force across the entire foot.

(3) Active Randing: A protective, low-tension randing system ensures durability and performance.

(4) Sole: Scarpa's Vision Rubber which I mentioned above.

The same numbering also is used above, and I believe you might want to check the Scarpa Origin assembly.

Additionally, there's also Scarpa Origin Women which is basically a narrower version of the Scarpa Origin. It comes with the same structure.

Okay, I almost forget to mention the technology of the Scarpa Origin which is the Pressure Absorbing Fit (PAF) system;

• PAF is an innovative heel system designed to evenly distribute heel tension and prevent over-compression of the toe box while enhancing heel fit.
• The aggressive tension rubber is interrupted behind the heel to alleviate Achilles tendon pressure, connected by softer rubber that adapts to the heel's shape.

For usage, I'd definitely recommend you to go with Scarpa Origin for indoor and multi-pitch climbing.

Scarpa Origin Sizing

In my experience, the Scarpa Origin shoes tend to stretch quite a bit.

When you first start using them, they might feel rigid, especially if you're new to climbing. However, as you continue to wear them, they'll adapt to your feet and become more comfortable.

Give them some time, and they should feel great within a month or so.

Specs

• Weight: 7.6 oz per shoe (215 g)
• Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
• Last: FFX - Flat, Slightly Asymmetric
• Symmetry: Slightly Asymmetric
• Closure: Strap
• Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm 3/4 length
• Sole Rubber: 5 mm Scarpa Vision®

Best Scarpa Climbing Shoe for Intermediate: Scarpa Vapor V

Scarpa Vapor V is moderately downturned with a medium asymmetric climbing shoe which gives you a balance of toe power, flex, and comfort.

This shoe is designed for the climber who has a lower volume (narrow) foot with a center-shaped shoe toe.

If you've been climbing for a while and are ready to take your skills to the next level, Scarpa Vapor V will confidently support you through that transition.

Scarpa Vapor V comes with a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Edge sole which allow you to focus weight on the tiny holds.

Let me explain the benefits of Vibram XS Edge;

• The Vibram XS Edge compound is designed for ultimate climbing performance that offers superior edging support and durability.
• It performs for demanding rocks and multi-pitch routes, this high-quality rubber provides precise grip and maintains its shape on the smallest edges.
• With consistent performance in various temperatures, the Vibram XS Edge excels in precision grip, durability, and stability for extremely long routes and micro holds, making it the ideal choice when support is the top priority.

Here are some features of Scarpa Vapor V;

(1) Upper: Featuring a multi-panel design with a seamless big-toe panel and a low-rise four-toe panel, the upper ensures a custom, molded fit for ultimate comfort. The top panels are made of Microfiber, while the bottom panel uses suede. Twin Velcro straps allow for easy on and off.

(2) Insole: The full-length Talyn 1.0 mm insert, running from heel to toe, evenly distributes force across the entire foot for enhanced comfort and support.

(3) Active Randing: The innovative Bi-Tension active randing system extends under the toes and back through the arch of the foot, providing impressive flexibility while maintaining subtle tension.

(4) Sole: A 3.5 mm Vibram XS Edge which I mentioned above.

The same numbering also is used above, and I believe you might want to check the Scarpa Vapor V assembly.

There are also two technologies that I want to talk about which are M70 rubber and Air Mesh Tongue.

M70 rubber is a rubber compound that confidently delivers an ideal balance of adaptability and support, ensuring optimal performance during use.

Air Mesh Tongue offers you all-day breathability.

For usage, I'd definitely recommend you to go with Scarpa Vapor V for bouldering and sport climbing.

Also, there's another climbing shoe which is Scarpa Arpia. I had some doubts about which one is the best intermediate climbing shoe: Scarpa Arpia or Scarpa Vapor. But, the features above helped me to choose the Vapor as the best intermediate climbing shoe. 

Scarpa Vapor V Sizing

I wear a size 9 (42 euro size) in street shoes and downsized to a 41 in my Vapor V for a performance fit.

They conform perfectly to my feet, providing a snug fit without any gaps or constriction. While I wouldn't want to wear them between pitches, I don't feel compelled to immediately remove them upon reaching an anchor.

It's recommended to downsize by half a size to 2 sizes, depending on the shoe's downturn. With the Vapor V, downsizing by half a size to a full size is usually sufficient for most feet and foot shapes.

Specs

• Weight: 8.5 oz per shoe (240 g)
• Upper: Microsuede & Leather
• Last: FR - Moderately Downturned, Moderately Asymmetric
• Closure: Strap
• Midsole: Flexan Dynamix 1.4 mm
• Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge

Best All-Around Climbing Shoe: Scarpa Arpia

Scarpa Arpia is moderately downturned with a highly asymmetric climbing shoe which gives you a balance of toe power, flex, and comfort and also the increased focus of power at the tip of the shoe.

This shoe is designed for the climber who has a medium volume foot with a square shape shoe toe.

After examining the Arpia on paper, I was eager to see if they could truly deliver in real-world climbing situations.

Having used the Arpia for several weeks now, I can confidently say they are the ideal choice for those transitioning from beginner shoes but not yet ready (or willing) to endure the intense fit of high-performance footwear. 

The Arpia's versatility makes them suitable for various types of indoor climbing, as well as a wide range of outdoor climbing and bouldering.

With a medium-volume fit in both the forefoot and heel, they seem to be well-suited for most climbers' feet, including mine.

Additionally, the soft lining effectively reduces the hot spots that can sometimes occur during the break-in period of new shoes.

(1) Upper: The four-panel Microfiber upper, combined with a suede bottom panel, offers superior comfort and durability. An integral lining ensures an exceptional fit throughout your climbs.

(2) Insole: The full-length Dynamic Flexan 1.4mm insole includes an extension for heel reinforcement, providing stability and support while maintaining flexibility.

(3) Active Randing: The V-Tension active randing system preserves the shoe's shape throughout its lifespan, holding the forefoot in an optimal position and supporting the toe area. This innovative system allows for sufficient flex, essential for effective smearing.

(4) Sole: A 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2 sole, these shoes deliver exceptional traction and performance on a variety of surfaces, ensuring a reliable grip during even the most challenging climbs.

The numbering above is the same system that I used before in this post, and you might want to check the Scarpa Arpia's assembly.

Scarpa Arpia also comes with M70 rubber which I mentioned above.

Usage: As I mentioned earlier in this section, you can go everywhere with the Arpia.

Scarpa Arpia Sizing

I recently tried the Arpia and found it to be extremely comfortable straight out of the box. As a size 9 (42) street shoe wearer, I opted for an 8 (41) in the Arpia, and it fits perfectly.

The shoe features a super soft lining, which, although it does make my feet a bit warmer and sweatier than in the Instinct, still provides great comfort.

Being a slipper-style shoe, the Velcro can occasionally roll and scratch my foot when putting it on, but that's a minor issue.

Surprisingly, the Arpia edges were better than expected, although I did experience some slipping on volumes and larger gym holds. I'm hoping this will improve as the shoe breaks in.

The heel seam isn't the most visually appealing, so I'm curious to see how it will perform during heel hooks. My only other concern is the longevity of the rubber, as I suspect it may wear down quicker than I'd prefer.

Specs

• Weight: 6.7 oz per shoe (190 g)
• Upper: Microsuede with soft-touch backing
• Last: FK - Slightly Downturned, Slightly Asymmetric
• Closure: Strap
• Midsole: Flexan Dynamix 1.4 mm
• Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2

Best Trad and Crack Climbing Shoe: Scarpa Helix

Scarpa Helix is a flat profile with a neutral asymmetric climbing shoe that gives you excellent comfort and flexibility.

This shoe is designed for the climber who has a medium-volume foot with a center-shaped shoe toe.

So, As I mentioned at Scarpa Origin, you can also use the Scarpa Helix if you're a beginner.

BUT, this shoe offers also high-quality construction that combines comfort and performance, and having a flat and neutral shape makes this shoe perfect for prolonged use.

That means this shoe is very ideal for multi-pitch and all-day climbing.

Let me talk about my experience with this shoe:

Crack Climbing: I can attest to its suitability for crack climbing. The shoe's low, narrow toe profile is designed to handle the foot-jamming techniques required for cracks.

In your regular size, the suede and rubber toe rand provides ample protection for rigorous jamming.

Going a size smaller, however, may cause discomfort as it presses the second toe tightly against the other toes.

Although the Helix is an all-around type of shoe, its crack-climbing capabilities are not compromised by its focus on comfort.

Trad Climbing: The Scarpa Helix performs exceptionally well on easy-to-moderate trad climbing routes.

Its sticky rubber, neutral shape, and premium leather construction make it an essential piece of gear for climbers tackling longer, multi-pitch climbs. In these scenarios, comfort is crucial, and the Helix delivers.

Additionally, the durable leather material and padded tongue ensure that your feet are protected from the wear and tear associated with trad climbing, providing longevity and reliability in your climbing experience.

(1) Upper: Multi-panel upper construction in microsuede for unmatched fit and performance.
(2) Insole: Nylon 1.4 mm, full length
(3) Active Randing: Passive randing is constructed for a comfortable supportive fit.
(4) Sole: Vibram XS Edge delivers good grip while adding improved underfoot support.

You can see here, how Scarpa Helix assemblies.

Scarpa Helix Sizing

When selecting the right size, consider the shoe's neutral asymmetry and flat profile. For optimal comfort and performance, choose your regular street shoe size or size down a half size.

Keep in mind that the suede leather upper and padded tongue contributes to the shoe's overall comfort, making it suitable for all-day and multi-pitch climbing.

Specs

• Weight: 7.6 oz per shoe (215 g)
• Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
• Last: FF - Flat Profile, Slightly Asymmetric
• Closure: Lace
• Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm Full Length
• Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge

Best Sport Climbing Shoe: Scarpa Drago

Scarpa Drago is an aggressive downturned and highly asymmetric climbing shoe, focusing power at the shoe's tip. 

It is designed for climbers with lower volume (narrow) feet and a classic toe shape, the Drago offers precision and performance.

Scarpa Drago is the ultimate climbing shoe for sport climbing, excelling in face climbing on limestone, granite, conglomerate, and sandstone.

Its edging and smearing capabilities instill confidence across varied terrain, enabling climbers to keep their lower body close to the wall and reduce arm strain on overhanging routes.

Scarpa Drago comes with a 3.5 mm XS Grip 2 with a handcrafted 2mm XS Grip 2 heel 

The Vibram XS Grip 2 is a rubber compound designed to provide outstanding friction and exceptional grip.

(1) Upper: Featuring a multi-panel design with a seamless big-toe panel and offset four-toe stitch, the upper ensures a custom-molded fit.

The full microfiber construction is paired with a single Velcro strap and a deep Y attachment for secure hooking. A high-stretch gusset allows for easy entry.

(2) Insole: The insole boasts a minimal Flexan 1.0mm midsole insert and a floating big toe pad, offering ultimate sensitivity.

(3) Active Randing: The PCB active randing system provides top-level flexibility and preserves the shoe's shape. The SRT toe rand system, combined with M50 rubber, delivers unparalleled toe-hooking capabilities.

(4) Sole: A 3.5mm XS Grip 2 sole and a handcrafted 2 mm XS Grip 2 heel offer exceptional performance.

You can see here how Scarpa Drago assemblies.

Okay, I'd definitely recommend this shoe if you mostly do sport climbing and bouldering.

Scarpa Drago Sizing

Many reviewers opted for the Drago in a half to one size smaller than their street shoe size.

Those who downsized a full size experienced a longer break-in period and initial discomfort.

However, after a few sessions, even climbers with a performance fit were highly satisfied with how the shoe adapted to their foot, providing both comfort and support.

The Scarpa Drago is known for its snug and comfortable fit right from the start, which is why it has received high praise for comfort.

The fit is generally suitable for a range of foot widths, with no complaints from individuals with wider feet. 

However, some climbers with narrower feet reported excess room in the sides and heel, with one suggesting an additional Velcro strap for a better fit.

Me, As a size 9 (42) street shoe wearer, I opted for a 7 (39.5) in the Drago (yeah I know). It gave me a solid performance.

Since they don't stretch significantly, I would not recommend going for crazy downsize if I were you, unless you hate your toes 🙂

BUT, once broken in, I found the Drago comfortable even during 2-hour bouldering sessions, as the soft rubber material effectively minimizes pain. 

It's important to note that if the edging is a primary focus, the Drago may be too soft for optimal performance.

Specs

• Weight: 7.1 oz (200 g)
• Upper: Microsuede & Leather
• Profile: Aggressively Downturned
• Last: FZ - Aggressive, Downturned, and Highly Asymmetric
• Symmetry: Highly Asymmetric
• Closure: Strap
• Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm
• Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ with a handcrafted 2 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ heel

Other Scarpa Climbing Shoes

Okay, After one of the best 6 climbing shoes which they are masters in their field, I have 2 other climbing shoes that I want to talk about.

Scarpa Instinct VS

Scarpa Instinct VS comes with (like Scarpa VSR) moderately downturned with a slightly asymmetric which gives you a balance of toe power, flex, and comfort.

This shoe is also designed for the climber who has a higher volume (wide) foot with a center-shaped shoe toe.

As you can understand (I mentioned earlier), the Instinct VS is pretty much similar to the Instinct VSR. BUT, the rubber compound is different.

Scarpa Instinct VS comes with a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Edge in the forefoot and a 2 mm XS Grip 2 in the heel.

This shoe is one of the most unique shoe that I've ever seen because of the combination of the XS Edge and XS Edge.

It's so important that the Instinct VS offers superior edging support and durability with the XS Edge, on the other hand, you have a precision grip and proper heel hook with the XS Grip 2.

Let's talk about some features;

(1) Upper: Optimized multi-panel upper for a superior custom fit. Full microfiber upper with a single Velcro strap and deep Y attachment for secure hooking.

(2) Insole: Semi-length Flexan 1.0mm insert evenly distributes force in the forefoot and provides excellent flexibility in the rear of the shoe.

(3) Active Randing: Bi-Tension active randing system extends under the toes and retracts through the arch of the foot, delivering excellent flex and subtle tension.

(4) Sole: 3.5mm XS Edge sole paired with a handcrafted 2mm XS Grip 2 heel for exceptional performance.

You can see here, how Scarpa Instinct VS assemblies.

I'd recommend the Scarpa Instinct VS if you mainly do bouldering, sport climbing, and technical face climbing.

Scarpa Instinct VS Sizing

I've owned multiple pairs of Scarpa Instinct VS shoes, and they tend to stretch about half a size. 

As a size 42 (9 US size) in regular shoes, I downsize to a 41 (8 US size) with the Instinct VS. 

They may feel slightly uncomfortable during the first week, but once broken in, they provide a snug and comfortable fit.

The wide design of these shoes, coupled with the typical sizing advice for climbing shoes (downsizing by half or full size), offers excellent potential for achieving the perfect fit. 

With a slightly smaller size, the higher profile toe box and increased width will enhance comfort and performance.

Specs

• Weight: 8.1 oz per shoe (230g)
• Upper: Microsuede & Leather
• Last: FV - Moderately Downturned, Moderately Asymmetric
• Closure: Strap
• Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm 
• Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge™ (forefoot), 2 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ (heel)

Scarpa Furia S

Scarpa Furia S is an aggressive downturned and highly asymmetric climbing shoe, which has increased the focus of power at the tip of the shoe. 

It's designed for climbers with lower-volume (narrow) feet and a classic toe shape.

Scarpa Furia S is very sensitive and ultra soft which gives you a barefoot-like experience.

I'd highly recommend this shoe if you mostly do steep bouldering and sport climbing. 

This shoe is very similar to Scarpa Drago. You can find it here the comparison between Scarpa Drago vs Scarpa Furia S.

The main differences between these shoes are their Tension Technology and fit.

Scarpa Furia S comes with the IPR-Tension which works great with the SRT. The IPR-Tension system enables versatile foot movement and exceptional smearing performance.

Let's talk about features;

(1) Upper: Multi-panel upper featuring a seamless big-toe panel and offset four-toe stitching for an optimal custom fit.

 The wave strap system evenly distributes pressure across the upper and offers extensive volume adjustment. A high-stretch gusset ensures easy entry.

(2) Insole: Minimal Flexan 1.0mm midsole insert with a floating big toe pad for ultimate sensitivity.

(3) Active Randing: The IPR active randing system provides top-level flexibility and maintains tension from the forefoot to the heel. The SRT toe rand system, combined with M50 rubber, offers unparalleled toe-hooking capabilities.

(4) Sole: A 3.5mm XS Grip 2 sole accompanied by a handcrafted 2mm XS Grip 2 heel.

You can see here, how Scarpa Furia S assemblies.

Scarpa Furia S Sizing

When it comes to sizing the Furia S, opting for a smaller size is recommended. These shoes are adaptable enough to accommodate larger feet, but an overly large shoe cannot be fixed.

I initially chose half a size smaller than my street shoe size and eventually wished I had gone a full size down instead.

In terms of fit, the Furia S starts off quite snug but stretches about half a size after a few climbing sessions. After three months of use, it even stretched close to a full size. 

Although this makes sizing a bit challenging, we advise going down half a size from your typical Scarpa size for this shoe. It might feel tight at first, but it will eventually place you in the ideal comfort zone for long-lasting wear.

Specs

FAQ

Is Scarpa a good brand for climbing?

Yes, Scarpa is a well-respected and reputable brand in the climbing community. They offer a wide range of high-quality climbing shoes for various skill levels and climbing styles.

What are the best Scarpa climbing shoes for intermediate?

The answer is the Scarpa Vapor V, which offers a balance of comfort and performance, catering to various climbing styles.

Should I size down in Scarpa climbing shoes?

It's common to size down in climbing shoes for a performance fit.

However, the amount you size down depends on the specific Scarpa model and your personal preference for comfort versus performance.

Typically, climbers size down half or one full size from their street shoe size. It's essential to try on different sizes to find the best fit for your feet.

What climbing shoes does Magnus Midtbo use?

Magnus Midtbo, a professional climber, has been known to use Scarpa climbing shoes, such as the Scarpa Drago and Scarpa Instinct series.

However, keep in mind that professional climbers may use different shoes depending on the climbing situation and personal preference.

References: https://us.scarpa.com/ and https://world.scarpa.com/