My Tenaya Tarifa is hanging
As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.
I thought that a post devoted specifically to Tenaya Tarifa vs Oasi would be helpful for most of you.
Let's take a closer look at the Oasi and Tarifa, two models that have a lot in common but also some key differences.
Both shoes are built on the same last and use the same rubber compound and thicknesses. BUT, the closure system, shoe volume, and rubber over the top of the toes set them apart.
Overview
Before you read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace and Scarpa Origin vs Helix posts if you're a newbie.
Otherwise, if you're at least intermediate, then go on.
In Short, both shoes are designed for high performance, and you can use them for bouldering, sport climbing, and competitive climbing. BUT, if you want to do proper toe hooks, I'd recommend you go with the Tarifa. Otherwise, go with the Oasi.
- Differences:
- The Tarifa is slightly stiffer in the forefoot and heel.
- The Tarifa has a little more rubber over the top of the toes.
- The Tarifa has a lace-up closure system whereas the Oasi has a velcro closure system.
- The Tarifa is much narrow in the forefoot than the Oasi.
- Performance:
- Tenaya Oasi: Overhanging routes or vertical and all kinds of bouldering, face climbing.
- Tenaya Tarifa: Sport climbing on the rock of all angles, steep terrain, and overhanging routes.
Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Tenaya's own sizing guide.
Let's dive into it.
Differences
The first big difference is obviously their closure system.
As you can see in the picture, the Oasi has a velcro closure system whereas the Tarifa has a lace-up closure system. Which way does the closure system affect the climbing shoes?
The most important factor to consider when deciding between velcro and lace climbing shoes is the type of climbing that will be performed.
Yes, I know that I said that both shoes provide you with high performance in same type of climbing because they're really quality and designed for performance.
BUT sometimes some climbing styles require a longer time on the rock like trad climbing and multi-pitch climbing. In this case, it's essential to have a shoe that gives you more security. You can go with a lace-up closure system without being afraid of undoing your closure system.
Also, I'd recommend the lace-up closure system for crack climbing. Because velcro straps are easily undone during the adventure of crack climbing.
What's next? Yes, you can clearly see in the above picture that the Tarifa has a little bit more rubber over the top of the toes. This little rubber helps you to do a better toe hook, believe me.
The final difference I can say is that the Oasi is much wider in the forefoot. The Oasi will be the better choice if you have a higher volume of feet.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Tenaya Tarifa and Oasi Sizing
I wear a 44 in street shoes (10.5 USM), I tried both shoes in 43 and I can say it's pretty comfortable. BUT, you can go 42 for a tighter fit.
Similarities
The Tenaya Oasi is good at sport climbing
As I said at the beginning of this post, both shoes have the same technical specs.
They both come with a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Grip which is a rubber compound used in climbing shoes to provide excellent grip and durability. Known for its high performance, the Vibram XS Grip is a popular choice among climbers of all levels.
Let me shortly inform one of the main benefits of the Vibram XS Grip which is its ability to provide excellent traction on a variety of surfaces. The rubber compound has a unique micro-texture that allows it to stick to small holds and edges, making it ideal for sport climbing and bouldering.
Additionally, the rubber is durable and long-lasting, which means that it will maintain grip and performance even after prolonged use.
You can see the other technical specs which are the same in the conclusion section.
What I want to talk about is their technologies;
- SXR Dynamics: Technology that increases the dynamic response of the shoe improving its ability to adapt to different rock shapes and greater precision and comfort.
- RBRX: It improves the balance between all the performances of the shoe achieving a greater range of response and greater performance in very different situations.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Oasi
The Tenaya Oasi is a high-performance climbing shoe known for its versatility and comfort.
The Tenaya Oasi is designed to be versatile and comfortable for all-day climbing and multi-pitch climbing, with a more neutral and symmetric toe box that is optimized for a relaxed and comfortable fit on long routes.
The shoe also features a leather upper that is designed to withstand the rigors of climbing and provide long-lasting performance. The Oasi has a medium fit and is suitable for most foot shapes.
Pros
Cons
Tarifa
- Upper: Microfibre
- Closure System: Lacing
- Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
- Lining: TXT treated cotton
- Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
- Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
- Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
- Weight: 340 gr.
Tenaya Tarifa is n enough aggressive and performance-oriented climbing shoe. Designed for steep sport climbing and overhanging routes, the Tarifa is a favorite among advanced climbers looking for a shoe that can handle the most demanding routes.
Its downturned and highly asymmetric shape gives the shoe excellent power and precision on small holds, making it ideal for various of climbing routes.
