Tenaya Mastia's velcro closure provides easy on and off
As some of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.
After trying the Tenaya Tarifa and comparing it to the Oasi, I decided to go with another Tenaya Aerial Plus line which is Tenaya Mastia. Then I thought that it would be a great idea to publish a post around Tenaya Oasi vs Mastia, so here you go.
Overview
First of all, if you're a newbie, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Finale or La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.
But, if you're at least an intermediate, then read on.
Shortly, both shoes are designed for high performance. BUT, if you're planning to go to routes that require proper edging, and toe/heel hook, I'd recommend the Mastia. Otherwise, go with the Oasi.
Mastia is a bit wider and more sensitive.
Oasi is softer.
- Differences:
- Tenaya Mastia has a split sole whereas Tenaya Oasi has a partial split sole.
- The Mastia has more rubber on top of the toes than the Oasi.
- The Mastia has a slightly wider heel than the Oasi.
- Both have a velcro closure system but the Mastia has a more simple velcro strap.
- The Mastia is more comfortable than the Oasi.
- As I said, both shoes are designed for high performance. Nevertheless, the Mastia is more precise with the pointer toe box.
- The Mastia is more breathable than the Oasi.
Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Tenaya's own sizing guide.
Let's dive into it.
Differences
Partial Split Sole (the Oasi) vs Split Sole (the Mastia)
The first difference that I want to talk about which you can see in the picture is sole type.
The Oasi has a partial split sole whereas the Mastia has a split sole. What are the differences?
A partial split sole is kind of a combination of a full sole and a split sole. It offers some of the benefits of both types of soles and is often found on all-around climbing shoes.
It provides a balance of support and flexibility, making it a good choice for climbers who want a climbing shoe that can perform well across a range of disciplines, such as bouldering. This type of sole allows the foot to twist slightly, which is important when performing foot jams.
A split sole is designed for maximum flexibility. It is often found on bouldering-specific shoes and allows the sole to bend and flex into any shape required.
It offers almost no support (from the midsole) to the foot, which means the climber has to do all work. Luckily, the Mastia has a 3.5 mm rubber (like the Oasi) outsole, combined with a five-micro-layer insole, which helps to transmit force effectively in all climbing situations, allowing the climber to have a better connection with the rock.
Tenaya Mastia (left) vs Tenaya Oasi (right)
The second difference which I want to talk about is the amount of rubber on top of the toes.
The Mastia climbing shoe features a slightly extended rubber coverage over the toes. This added rubber helps to provide extra grip and support for the toe hooking technique, allowing the climber to perform this movement more effectively.
Having a little bit more rubber over the top of the toes, allows the climber to have more surface area to hook and secure their toes onto the climbing surface, giving them more control and stability while climbing.
The other difference is also you can see in the picture above, velcro type:
- The Mastia climbing shoe features a single velcro strap closure system, which is considered to be more straightforward and easy to use compared to the double-strap system featured on the Tenaya Oasi.
- While both closure systems are effective in providing a secure fit for the climber, Mastia's single strap system is less complex, which allows for a more efficient and quicker adjustment during the climbing session.
- Despite the differences in the closure system, both the Mastia and Oasi are able to provide a snug and personalized fit for the climber, ensuring optimal performance and comfort during the climb.
And, finally, the Mastia has a wider forefoot than the Oasi.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Tenaya Mastia Sizing
The Mastia has similar sizing as the rest of the Aerial Plus line of Tenaya. It can stretch a half size.
My street shoe size is EU 44 and I tried the Mastia a size EU 42, and I can say that it was comfortable.
Tenaya Oasi Sizing
As I said about my street shoe above, I tried also the Oasi a size EU42, and it was not too comfortable but also it was not too tight.
Similarities
After a good session with my Tenaya Mastia
Let's talk about similarities.
Both the Tenaya Oasi and Mastia climbing shoes share similar technical specifications, including a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Grip rubber sole that offers excellent grip and durability.
The Vibram XS Grip is a well-known rubber compound used in climbing shoes, known for its high performance and ability to provide excellent traction on a variety of surfaces.
Its unique micro-texture allows for sticking to small holds and edges, making it ideal for sport climbing and bouldering. Additionally, the rubber is durable and long lasting, maintaining its grip and performance even after prolonged use.
In terms of technology, both shoes feature SXR Dynamics and RBRX. SXR Dynamics is a technology that improves the climbing shoe's dynamic response, allowing for better adaption to different rock shapes and greater precision and comfort.
RBRX, on the other hand, improves the balance between all the shoe's performance, achieving a greater range of response and improved performance in various situations.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Oasi
The Tenaya Oasi is a high-performance climbing shoe known for its versatility and comfort.
The Tenaya Oasi is designed to be versatile and comfortable for all-day climbing and multi-pitch climbing, with a more neutral and symmetric toe box that is optimized for a relaxed and comfortable fit on long routes.
The shoe also features a leather upper that is designed to withstand the rigors of climbing and provide long-lasting performance. The Oasi has a medium fit and is suitable for most foot shapes.
Pros
Cons
Mastia
- Upper: Microfibre
- Closure System: Velcro
- Tongue: Highly breathable
- Lining: Without lining
- Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
- Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
- Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
- Weight: 330 gr.
The Tenaya Mastia is designed with modern aggressive climbing in mind. It features a rubberized heel, high friction rubber on the toes and in-step, a single velcro strap, and a soft midsole.
The design is not only effective but also well thought-out, with every detail carefully crafted to provide a comfortable and reliable climbing experience.
The velcro strap on the Mastia is sturdy yet soft, ensuring it does not dig into the foot even when closed tightly. Some may question the ability of a single velcro strap to keep the shoe securely in place, but in practice, the Mastia stays on so reliably that it hardly crosses the mind of the wearer. The Mastia's design and construction are so effective that one can focus on climbing rather than worrying about the shoe's fit.
