The VS is a great for toe-hooking
As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around climbing shoes for years now.
I thought that a post devoted specifically to Instinct VSR vs VS would be helpful for most of you.
I've been hearing for a while about Instinct VS which is one of the most popular climbing shoes on the market but I had not tried it until 4 months ago. I really liked the Instinct VS and also I've decided to go with Instinct VSR which is the exact same climbing shoes but a little bit different.
So, I want to talk about the main differences and similarities between these shoes.
Overview
If you're a beginner, I'd recommend you to stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Finale and La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.
But, if you're at least intermediate, then please read on, you're at the right place.
In short, the essential difference between these shoes is the rubber of the forefoot. The Instinct VS is equipped with Vibram XS Edge whereas the Instinct VSR is equipped with Vibram XS Grip2.
- Instinct VS is stiffer and more durable.
- Instinct VSR is softer and offers better sensitivity.
- I'd recommend basing your decision primarily on your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
- If your answer is bouldering, sport climbing, and crack climbing then I have to tell you guys, the Instinct VS has yet to disappoint me.
- If you're doing competitive climbing, gym climbing, overhangs, and slab routes, go with the Instinct VSR.
- Quick differences:
- The Instinct VSR is a little bit narrower than the Instinct VS.
- The Instinct VSR is more suitable for a light climber.
- Quick similarities:
- They're built off of the same last.
- They're sized the same, so if a size 40 VSR fits well, the same size in the VS will feel the same.
- Their heel cups are equipped with Vibram XS Grip 2.
- Best uses:
- The VSR is for the gym and competitive climbing and more boulderer.
- The VS is the all-rounder one between these shoes and great for edging.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa Climbing Shoe Comparison down below. Also, you can check this here in Scarpa's own comparison chart and climbing collection structure.
Let's dive into it.
Rubber
My lovely Scarpa Instinct VS is ready for action
Here's something I will say, and that is about the rubber compound: it's one of the main things that determine the quality of shoes.
I've been always talking about how important a rubber is for climbing shoes.
Here we're. Both shoes are nearly identical, but the forefoot rubber of these shoes is different. Therefore, they provide different purposes.
Quick reminder for you, both of the heels are equipped with XS Grip 2. I'd say that the heel-hooking performance of these shoes is very solid and equal.
Okay, as I mentioned earlier, the Instinct VS' forefoot is equipped with XS Edge whereas the Instinct VSR' is equipped with XS Gripped 2.
As the name implied, you have better edging capacity with Instinct VS. Plus, the rubber patch over the toe makes the VS ideal for toe-hooking.
I just realized that I can easily plant on the smallest of edges while I was climbing with the VS. But, when it comes to smearing, I was more comfortable with the VSR because of the softer rubber XS Grip 2, and I'd like to say that VSR' grip is better than the VS'.
The other important thing I'd like to talk about is the durability of these shoes. The Instinct VS is more durable than the Instinct VSR due to the rubber compound. But, the VSR is definitely more sensitive than the VS.
Shortly, the Bi-Tension system maintains a tension between the tip and the heel for better transmission of the supports.
More specifically, a reverse slingshot rand that's anchored under the critical toe area and connects directly to the heel rand, only there's nothing basic about it.
As you see, these shoes are nearly identical. Not much to tell about differences other than what I mentioned. Also, there is a preview about between these shoes made by Outdoor Gear Exchange, you might want to look at it.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
VS
- Weight: 8.1 oz (230 g)
- Upper: Microsuede & Leather
- Last: FV - Moderately Downturned, Moderately Asymmetric
- Profile: Moderately Downturned
- Symmetry: Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm
- Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge™ (forefoot), 2 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ (heel)
Scarpa Instinct VS is a great for edging and all arounder climbing shoe that comes with Vibram® XS Edge™ and Bi-Tension technology. Scarpa Instinct VS provides edging ability and durability. Also, the VS is suitable for climbing shoes to anyone looking for a versatile semi-aggressive to the aggressive shoe.
Pros
Cons
VSR
- Weight: 8.1 oz (230 g)
- Upper: Microsuede & Leather
- Last: FV - Curved Profile / Asymmetric
- Profile: Moderately Downturned
- Symmetry: Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm
- Sole Rubber: Vibram® XS Grip 2™ (forefoot), 2 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ (heel)
Scarpa Instinct VSR is an excellent climbing shoe for overhangs, slabs, and also a more supple version of Scarpa Instinct VS. The Instinct VSR features Vibram XS Grip 2 and comes with Bi-Tension technology.
