scarpa vs la sportiva

As most of you know, as a big fanboy and devoted first-hand customer; I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now (see full post list at the bottom).

Today I'm going to compare these two giants brand;

La Sportiva and Scarpa Climbing Shoes.

Hope this guide helps you.

Before we dive into some details, I have lots of guides for you guys! I'd highly recommend you check out below guides;

• Scarpa's Climbing Collection Structure 
• Scarpa's own Comparison Chart 
• La Sportiva's own Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart
• La Sportiva's own Climbing Shoe Quick Comparison Graph
• La Sportiva's own Climbing Shoe Updated Comparison Chart  
• La Sportiva's own Women Climbing Shoe Updated Comparision Chart

Overview

As a climber, the search for the perfect climbing shoe can be both exciting and challenging. Two names that frequently rise to the top in this quest are Scarpa and La Sportiva, both renowned Italian brands.

They offer a range of neutral, moderate, and aggressive shoes for sports climbing, bouldering, trad climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and so on. You can check my Best Scarpa Climbing Shoes or Best La Sportiva Climbing Shoes posts if you wonder what type of climbing shoes they have.

Shortly, I'm going to share my knowledge about their materials, technology, sizing, and some professional climbers who are using these shoes.

Let's dive into it!

Shoe Materials

Climbing shoe materials play a crucial role in the overall performance and comfort of a climber's experience on the rock or in the gym. The choice of materials can significantly impact your grip, sensitivity, durability, and overall climbing experience.

Let's start!

Rubber

You know how much I've been mentioning the importance of the rubber compound if you read my previous posts before.

The rubber compound is one of the key features that directly affect a climbing shoe's durability, friction, edging capability, sensitivity, and so on.

Let's talk about which rubber compounds La Sportiva and Scarpa come with. First of all, they both come with Vibram XS Grip, XS Grip 2, and XS Edge.

BUT, they have also different rubber compounds from each other which are S72, Vision Rubber, M50, and M70 for Scarpa Climbing Shoes, and FriXion for La Sportiva Climbing Shoes.

Okay, I did some investigation about how many La Sportiva and Scarpa climbing shoes use which models. I did my research on La Sportiva and Scarpa websites.

As I expected, the most popular rubber compound for La Sportiva climbing shoes is the Vibram XS Grip 2.

13 La Sportiva climbing shoes are designed for men using XS Grip 2 while 11 La Sportiva climbing shoes are using the Vibram XS Edge. 

On the other hand, only one La Sportiva climbing shoe is using Vibram XS Grip which is La Sportiva Zenit, and there are 7 La Sportiva climbing shoes using FriXion.

Some of the most popular La Sportiva climbing shoes which use the Vibram XS Grip 2 are La Sportiva Solution, Genius, Skwama, and Futura. For the Vibram XS Edge, La Sportiva Finale, Miura, TC Pro, and Otaki are the popular ones.

The La Sportiva climbing shoes which are defined as Women climbing shoe are mostly using the Vibram XS Grip 2 (10). The two of them are using the Vibram XS Edge which is La Sportiva Katana Lace and La Sportiva Finale. Also, five of them are using the FriXion rubber compound.

Let's talk about Scarpa climbing shoes. 10 Scarpa climbing shoes are designed for men using the Vibram XS Grip 2, but 8 of them are designed with M50 and one of them is with M70 which is Scarpa Arpia.

On the other hand, 10 Scarpa climbing shoes use the Vibram XS Edge, but only one of them is designed with M70 which is Scarpa Vapor V.

Also, the Scarpa Veloce is using S72 with M50 (only shoe). Additionally, 4 Scarpa climbing shoes are using Vision rubber compounds which are Scarpa Velocity, Jungle, Origin, and Reflex V.

Like La Sportiva climbing shoes, Scarpa climbing shoes have also shoes which are defined as Woman climbing shoes. 3 of them are using the Vibram XS Grip 2, and one of them is designed with M70 which is Scarpa Arpia WMN.

There are also 6 Scarpa Climbing shoes for women which are using the Vibram XS Edge, but one of them is designed with M70 which is Scarpa Vapor V WMN. Additionally, Scarpa Veloce comes with S72, plus M50.

Like Scarpa Men's line, there are 4 Scarpa climbing shoes that are using Vision rubber compound; Scarpa Jungle, Origin, Velocity, and Reflex V.

Let me tell you guys this research takes my time! So as you know right now that how many Scarpa and La Sportiva climbing shoes are using which rubber compounds, let's see what are the features of these rubber compounds.

Vibram XS Edge:

• The Vibram XS Edge compound is designed for ultimate climbing performance that offers superior edging support and durability.
• It performs for demanding rocks and multi-pitch routes, this high-quality rubber provides precise grip and maintains its shape on the smallest edges.
• With consistent performance in various temperatures, the Vibram XS Edge excels in precision grip, durability, and stability for extremely long routes and micro holds, making it the ideal choice when support is the top priority.

Vibram XS Grip 2:

• Designed for ultimate climbing performance.
• The pure grip on indoor/outdoor climbing.
• Extreme grip in all conditions and surfaces, high sensitivity, optimized for overhanging terrain.
• Optimized for challenging terrain and precise footholds.

According to La Sportiva, we can compare the Vibram XS Edge and the Vibram XS Grip 2.

Vibram XS Grip:

• Grip, edging performance, and durability.
• Steep routes, friction slabs, and overhang walls.
• Vertical excellence and precision hold.

FriXion:

• Custom-formulated sole compounds for climbing
• Designed for maximum performance in specific activities.
• Provides optimal stickiness, durability, and a distinct performance advantage.

S-72:

• Brand-new rubber developed by Scarpa
• Provides excellent adhesion on even the tiniest footholds.
• Ultra-durable for long-lasting use.
• Softer than the Vibram XS Grip 2 for maximum stickiness.
• High friction rubber.
• Superior grip.
• Adaptable to various surfaces, suitable for both rock and indoor walls.

M70 rubber is a rubber compound that confidently delivers an ideal balance of adaptability and support, ensuring optimal performance during use.

M50 rubber is one of the softest rubber compounds available, providing the highest levels of adaptability to the natural curves of the foot and toes.

Upper

The upper refers to the top section of a climbing shoe's material, and Scarpa and La Sportiva mostly come with four primary types of uppers: leather, synthetic, lined, or unlined shoes, which consist of a combination of both leather and synthetic materials.

As you can guest leather and synthetic are what they are, but still let me explain how affect climbing shoes. 

Leather offers excellent breathability and moisture control, making it durable for crack climbing or situations with rock friction, also leather climbing shoes can stretch more than synthetic.

Synthetic provides a vegan-friendly alternative, with benefits such as minimal stretch to maintain a performance fit.

Let's continue with unlined and lined climbing shoes.

Lined climbing shoes:

• Less stretch, maintaining a consistent fit
• Softer feel for enhanced comfort
• Improved durability for long-lasting performance

Unlined climbing shoes:

• Increased sensitivity for better contact with the rock
• More stretch, adapting to the shape of your foot

Unlined leather shoes are known for their ability to mold to your foot shape, providing a tailored fit over time. To achieve this, it's essential to purchase a tight-fitting pair initially, which may cause temporary discomfort as the shoes stretch.

The main distinction between lined (one layer) and unlined (multiple layers) climbing shoes lies in the number of material layers within the upper. This difference greatly impacts the shoe's fit, feel, and performance, making it an essential consideration when choosing the right climbing shoe.

Both La Sportiva and Scarpa have leather, synthetic, and hybrid climbing shoes. La Sportiva really likes leather climbing shoes, for example; La Sportiva Solution, Skwama, and Finale (you can check also my La Sportiva vs Skwama post). 

La Sportiva also comes with synthetic climbing shoes which are La Sportiva Skwama Vegan (yes, it's new!), Mythos Eco and Cobra Eco.

There are also hybrid ones, but my favorite is La Sportiva Futura!

Scarpa also has leather climbing shoes as I said, the popular ones are Scarpa Arpia, Helix, and Vapor V.

Scarpa also has vegan-friendly climbing shoes which are Scarpa Veloce L, Furia Air, and Veloce.

The hybrids for Scarpa are Scarpa Boostic and Chimera.

Midsole

The midsole, located between the outsole and the footbed, plays a crucial role in determining a climbing shoe's performance characteristics.

It works closely with the outsole and, when combined with the right rubber compound, influences the shoe's rigidity, support, edge stability, and sensitivity. The midsole also contributes to the overall tension in the shoe.

Midsoles help dictate the stiffness of climbing shoes, with less midsole resulting in greater "feel" and sensitivity. High-performance aggressive climbing shoes often feature slip-lasting and limited or no midsoles to maximize this feel.

La Sportiva climbing shoes generally come with LaspoFlex whereas Scarpa climbing shoes come with Flexan. The thickness of the midsole is depend on the type of shoe, such as neutral, moderate, or aggressive.

To be honest, I could not any specific data for Flexan and Laspoflex.

Shoe Technology

Scarpa and La Sportiva, two renowned brands in the climbing shoe industry, have consistently pushed the boundaries of innovation over the years.

Through their dedication to developing cutting-edge technology, these companies have contributed significantly to the evolution of climbing shoes and have established themselves as leaders in the market.

Then, let's talk about their technologies!

La Sportiva Climbing Shoes

According to my research and experiment with La Sportiva climbing shoes, there is four essential climbing shoes technology that La Sportiva has. P3, D-tech, No-edge, and S-Heel.

Let's look at these technologies one by one.

The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.

La Sportiva Solution is one of the popular La Sportiva climbing shoes that use this technology like many others.

The S-Heel allows perfect stability in torsion enhancing performance and flexibility for heel hooks. The S-Heel construction provides better heel hooking and a perfect heel cup fit. La Sportiva Skwama is one of the popular climbing shoes which uses the S-Heel.

The No-Edge technology eliminates the traditional "edges" of the sole, which allows the foot to come in closer contact with the rock surface, thus enhancing foot sensitivity and allowing optimum contact on the hold. You can check the video below that was made by La Sportiva.

One of my favorite La Sportiva climbing shoes with No-edge is La Sportiva Genius.

D-Tech ™ (Dynamic Technology): The sole wraps around the sides, eliminating lateral edges and providing exceptional dynamic support and adaptability on advanced indoor hold shapes. The low-volume heel design enhances precision during heel hooks, ensuring optimal performance. You can check here for a demonstration. 

This is a new technology from La Sportiva, and there are two climbing shoes that have this technology: La Sportiva Mantra and Theory.

Scarpa Climbing Shoes

Scarpa mainly focused on active randing systems while they were developing their technologies. There are lots of active randing system technologies which they developed. Also, they have SRT (surround rubber tension) and PAF for the heel.

IPR-Tension
The IPR-Tension system, ingeniously designed to also collaborate with Scarpa's SRT system, flawlessly connects the heel to the front of the shoe through the Integral Power Rib (IPR).

This cutting-edge system delivers maximum foot freedom with minimal interference, allowing climbers to experience unparalleled prehensile foot movement and exceptional smearing capabilities.

Enhance your climbing performance with the innovative IPR-Tension system, crafted for those seeking the ultimate in climbing footwear technology. Scarpa Furia S is using this system and it's pretty effective!

V-Tension: This system enhances toe-pulling power by supporting the arch and forefoot area. This tensioned rubber wrap is paired with a full sole unit and so does not need rear bands. It maintains the optimum foot position for small footholds.

You can check the Scarpa Arpia which is using the V-Tension system.

The Pressure Absorbing Fit (PAF) system:

IPC-Tension System: The IPC-Tension system provides essential support for the foot while utilizing small footholds in an extended toe position. 

The Integral Power Connection extends across three areas of the shoe - the center and both sides - enhancing edging performance without sacrificing foot flexibility during smears, making it an ideal solution for climbers seeking optimal performance.

Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco is one of the Scarpa climbing shoes that use the IPC-Tension system. Scarpa climbing shoes assembly has 4 parts which are 1. Upper, 2. Insole, 3. Active Randing and 4. Sole, and you can check here to see how Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco is designed (number 3 is the IPC-Tension System).

Scarpa Mago is the only Scarpa climbing shoe that uses X-Tension System:

The X-Tension system boosts toe-pulling power by supporting the arch and forefoot. This tensioned rubber wrap maintains optimal foot positioning for tiny footholds without sacrificing sensitivity. 

It's designed for aggressive half-length sole units. The X-Tension active randing system preserves the shoe's shape and focuses power on the big toe while supporting the arch and forefoot. You can check here also to see how Scarpa Mago assemblies (3. X-Tension).

DTS-Tension System: 
The DTS Tension system flawlessly adapts to the foot's movement, providing exceptional support. The Differentiated Tension System focuses power on the big toe without affecting the fit in other parts of the shoe. This ensures optimal foot and toe positioning for unparalleled power transfer and precision.

Scarpa Veloce is one of the Scarpa climbing shoes that use the DTS-tension system. You can check here to see how Scarpa Veloce assemblies (3. DTS-Tension).

Sizing

Finding the right fit in climbing shoes is crucial for performance and comfort, but generalizing sizing between brands like Scarpa and La Sportiva can be challenging.

The size and shape of climbing shoes are determined by the last they're built on, which influences various aspects of the shoe's fit.

A shoe last is the 3D foot mold that determines the size, shape, width, and volume of a climbing shoe. It's essential to know that even within the same brand, different models may be built on different lasts, affecting their fit.

While downsizing for a tight fit may be useful for elite climbers, it's essential to balance comfort and performance. Climbing shoes should be snug but not unbearably painful. Painful shoes can impede your climbing progress and enjoyment.

Sizing climbing shoes is a personal process that may involve trial and error. Each person's feet are unique, with variations in length, width, instep volume, and heel dimensions. Embrace this journey and learn from each shoe you try on.

Therefore, you have to know your foot volume, type, and length.

Start by accurately measuring both of your feet, as they may differ slightly in size. Use the larger measurement when determining your climbing shoe size. Knowing your foot size will make it easier to navigate Scarpa's and La Sportiva's selection of climbing shoes.

Check the below picture to know your foot better.

PLEASE also check this La Sportiva's Volume Chart and Scarpa's Climbing Structure.

Some factors also you have to consider: 

Stretch: Some materials, like leather, tend to stretch over time. If you choose a leather shoe, consider sizing down to accommodate the stretch.

Closure Type: La Sportiva and Scarpa offer shoes with various closure systems, such as laces, Velcro, or slip-on designs. Each system affects how the shoe fits and feels on your foot.

Some say the shoes from La Sportiva are usually two sizes smaller than street shoes, and the shoes from Scarpa are one size smaller. BUT, as I said, you have to try first if you have never tried before anything from Scarpa and La Sportiva.

Ambassadors

Lots of professional climbers are using Scarpa or La Sportiva. You can check here to see La Sportiva's Ambassadors, or you can check here to see Scarpa's Ambassadors.