Scarpa Force V is on duty
As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.
I thought that a post devoted specifically to Force V vs Origin would be helpful for most of you.
Overview
If you're a beginner and looking for a beginner climbing shoe that provides you with developing precision and confidence, you're at the right place.
Both shoes are specially designed for beginner to intermediate climbers. But, it doesn't mean that you can't use them if you're at least intermediate. These shoes are perfect for multi-pitch climbing and a variety of terrain.
However, you can check out my Scarpa Instinct VS vs VSR and Scarpa Drago vs Furia S for those looking for high-performance climbing shoes.
In short, if you're looking for more supportive, and don't mind the sensitivity, in the beginning, I'd recommend you to go with the Origin. But, if you prefer softer beginner climbing shoes and might want to use more technical terrain, I'd recommend you to go with the Force V (Also, my pick).
- The Origin is stiffer and durable.
- The Force V is softer and more sensitive.
- Before I'd recommend to you any of these shoes, it's better to answer the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
- If you're a newbie, and you want to learn footwork and techniques without concern about shredding the toes or soles, go with the Origin.
- If you're doing mostly steep climbing, hanging out technical terrain, or another rock climbing style, go with the Force V.
- However, both shoes are a good choice for multi-pitch and indoor climbing.
- Quick differences:
- The Force V is softer than the Origin.
- The Origin is stiffer than the Force V.
- The Force V is better at smearing and edging than the Origin.
- Quick similarities:
- They both are comfortable, and their padded tongue gives the shoes a pillow-like feel.
- They both are slightly asymmetric and flat.
- They both are a center shaped shoe toe and a medium volume.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check the Scarpa's own comparison chart and climbing collection structure.
Let's dive into it.
Rubber
Ready to go all-day climbing, the Origin
As most of you know, I've always mentioned how important the rubber compound and the rubber thicknesses are.
The Force V's rubber compound is different than the Origin's, as well as the rubber thickness.
Scarpa Force V is equipped with 4 mm Vibram XS Edge whereas Scarpa Origin is equipped with 5 mm Scarpa's Vision rubber.
The gap between the thicknesses of these shoes gives the Force V more sensitivity. But, the Origin is more durable because of the gap.
Also, I want to explain their rubber compound in case if you wonder.
What's the Vibram XS Edge?
- It's developed for maximum support.
- It allows you to focus your weight on the tiniest of holds.
- It keeps its shape through repeated stress, whether in hot or cold weather because of improved plastic deformation resistance.
How about the Scarpa's Vision?
- It's designed to deliver a balance of performance and resilience to the demands of a new climber's unpracticed feet.
- Durable, tacky, and reliable across a range of indoor and outdoor uses.
Another thing I want to mention is their active randing. This is the other big differences between these shoes then the rubber compound and the thicknesses.
What's the PAF?
Firstly, the PAF stands for "Pressure Absorbing Fit". It's an innovative heel system. It helps both spread the force of the heel tension, which also helps with over-compression of the box, and increase the fit of the heel.
The aggressive tension-rubber is interrupted behind the heel to reduce pressure on the Achilles tendon and connected with rubber, whick works like a bridge and allows full adaption to the shape of the heel.
You might want to check this if you wonder about how Scarpa assembly upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4) for the Origin.
How about the V-Tension?
This system enhances toe-pulling power by supporting the arch and forefoot area. This tensioned rubber wrap is paired with a full sole unit and so does not need rear bands.
It maintains the optimum foot position for small footholds.
You might want to check this if you wonder about the Force V's assembly with the same construction but different active randing because of the V-Tension.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons
Origin
- Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
- Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
- Last: FFX - Flat, Slightly Asymmetric
- Symmetry: Slightly Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm 3/4 length
- Sole Rubber: 5 mm Scarpa Vision®
Scarpa Origin is designed for those looking comfortable and durable. The Origin provides easy to get on and off. It has a flat and neutral shape and also a low-angled toe box which makes it perfect for all-day use.
Pros
Cons
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Force V
- Weight: 8.8 oz (250 g)
- Upper: 1.8 mm suede
- Last: FF - Flat Profile/Slightly Asymmetric
- Symmetry: Slightly Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm
- Sole Rubber: 4 mm Vibram® XS Edge
Scarpa Force V offers the perfect blend of comfort and technology. It excels in all day climbing and many various terrains because of the flat and neutral shape and low-angled toe box.
The Force V's rubber is softer than other beginner climbing shoes in Scarpa's market, and it allows the Force V more climbing performance opportunities than other beginner climbing shoes.
