Furia S provides flexibility
As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.
I thought that a post devoted specifically to Furia S vs Drago would be helpful for most of you.
I have to admit that it's hard to ignore similarities between the Furia S and the Drago, they're built on the same last with the same rubber compound and thicknesses. There're a few key distinctions.
Overview
Before you read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace and Scarpa Origin vs Force V posts if you're a newbie.
Otherwise, if you're at least intermediate, then go on.
Shortly, both shoes are designed for high performance, and you can use them for bouldering, sport climbing, competitive climbing. BUT, if you want to do proper heel/toe hooks, I'd recommend you to go with the Drago. Otherwise, go with the Furia S.
- The Drago is more comfortable and slightly stiffer.
- The Furia S is better at edging and slightly narrower forefoot.
- I'd recommend basing your decision primarily on your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
- If you're saying, I prefer to go to indoor bouldering, leading, and competitions, go with the Drago.
- If your answer is bouldering, especially sandstone or gritstone, go with the Furia S.
- Quick differences:
- The Furia S has a slightly lower volume toe box than the Drago.
- The Drago's rand is thicker than the Furia S.
- The Furia S is softer than the Drago.
- The Furia S has a pointer toe than the Drago.
- Best uses:
- The Drago; the routes that required toe/heel hooks.
- The Furia S; hard sport climbing, the routes that have a lot of edging.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check the Scarpa Climbing Shoe Comparison chart down below. Also, you can check this here in Scarpa's own comparison chart and climbing collection structure.
Let's dive into it.
Similarities
Both shoes are built on the same last with the same 3.5 Vibram XS Grip 2 outsole.
Shortly, Vibram XS Grip 2 delivers excellent with enough firmness for moderate edging.
Similar to the Furia S, the Drago also has a highly asymmetrical shape that twists the foot inward the big toe.
They both are aggressively downturned, designed for hard sport climbing, bouldering.
Also, they have an identical insole which is equipped with Minimal Flexan 1.0mm midsole insert with a floating big toe pad for ultimate sensitivity.
I mentioned above that they have an identical rubber compound and thicknesses. Also, I want to remind you that how important rubber compound and thicknesses.
If you reached a certain level of climbing, then soft rubber and thin rubber will not be a problem because you've already improved your technic and known how to do the footwork.
These two things (compound and thicknesses) affect your climbing. There are advantages and disadvantages of soft rubber and thin rubber. They can easily wear out if you don't watch out. Also, I'd not recommend overusing at outdoor climbing.
Another similarity between these shoes, according to Scarpa, is their fit. They say that both are narrow volume climbing shoes. BUT, there is a key point that makes their fit slightly different. I'll talk about it on the next topic.
And of course, there's the last thing that they are similar which is some of their technology.
What's the M50 Rubber?
According to Scarpa, M50 Rubber is Scarpa's softest rubber compound. This compound offers the best levels of adaptability to curves of the foot and toes.
They say that this morphing rubber compound gives a Shore A rating of 50, and it makes it perfect for use in their SRT system, toe patches, and strategic positioning around the shoe upper.
How about the SRT?
SRT stands for "Surround Rubber Tension". SRT is the core technology of the models like Drago and Furia S.
Basically, it's a layer of the M50 rubber that wraps around the forefoot and the power straight to the tips of the toes. Also, the SRT provides maximum sensitivity and friction for toe-hooking.
Differences
Scarpa Drago (Left) vs Scarpa Furia S (Right)
The first difference that I want to talk about, which I've already promised you before, is their fit.
As you can see from the picture, there's a difference between their closure system.
The Furia S comes with a new "wave" closure system. It provides to fit a range of foot shapes than the Drago, and you can able to get a more precise fit in the Furia S.
The Furia S' toe box is slightly lower-volume than the Drago.
About sizing, I'd recommend you can get your pair 1.5 sizes (European) for the Drago, and 1 size (European) for the Furia S below street size for a precise fit, and high performance due to my experience with both shoes.
Before talking about why the Drago is better at heel hooking, I want to explain the different tension technology that the shoes have.
Both systems are about active randing.
What's the PCB-Tension?
Firstly, the PCB stands for "Power Connection Band". According to Scarpa, the PCB-Tension system is the most minimalist tension system designed with prehensile foot movement and sensitivity in mind.
This system adapted to work with the SRT system, and it gives the foot complete freedom. How? It's reducing layers around the foot and minimizing the distance between the rubber pad and foot.
You might want to check this if you wonder about how Scarpa assembly upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4) for the Drago.
What's the IPR-Tension?
The IPR means Integral Power Rib. Scarpa says that the IPR-Tension system is designed to work together with the SRT system. The IPR connects the heel with the front of the shoe.
This system is also amazing for giving maximum foot freedom with minimal interference. The Integral Power Rib allows prehensile foot movement and ultimate smearing.
You can also check this if you wonder about the Furia S' assembly with the same construction but different active randing because of the IPR.
The IPR (Left) vs The PCB (Right)
As we understand that what's the IPR and the PCB, I can talk about shortly how these systems affect climbing.
- The IPR-Tension for flexibility and shape retention.
- The PCB-Tension makes the shoe extra sensitive while enhancing its overall fit.
Let's talk about heel hooking as I mentioned about the Drago is better.
As you can see in the above picture, the Furia S' active randing continues throughout the heel which causes a lack of rubber on the heel. But, the Drago's active randing is not like the Furia S.
Therefore, the Furia S has less rubber on the heel whereas the Drago is more. Because of this, the Drago is better at heel-hooking.
Some say, the closure system of the Furia S affects the toe hooking, but I was very solid at toe hooking with the Furia S. So, both shoes are good at toe hooking.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Drago
- Weight: 7.1 oz (200 g)
- Upper: Microsuede & Leather
- Profile: Aggressively Downturned
- Last: FZ - Aggressive, Downturned, and Highly Asymmetric
- Symmetry: Highly Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm
- Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ with a handcrafted 2 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ heel
The Drago is an aggressively downturned and highly asymmetric climbing shoe for those looking for performance. It provides all hooking possibilities with extended rubber coverage for both the heel and the toe.
Pros
Cons
Furia S
- Weight: 7.8 oz (220 g)
- Upper: Microsuede & Leather
- Profile: Aggressively Downturned
- Last: FZ - Aggressive, Downturned, and Highly Asymmetric
- Symmetry: Highly Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm
- Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ with a handcrafted 2 mm ribbed Vibram® XS Grip 2™ heel
The Furia S is an aggressively downturned and highly asymmetric climbing shoe and designed for sport climbing and steep bouldering. You will experience barefoot-like climbing with the Furia S. It will be your essential tool after a while when you need the precision and sensitivity with top-level flex.
