As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.
Many users say that the Futura is the velcro version of the Genius.
Yes, the differences between the Futuras and the Geniuses are small, but I thought that some differences are still worth mentioning, and a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Futura vs Genius would be helpful for most of you.
Overview
If you're beginner, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace and La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.
On the other side, if you're at least intermediate, then read on.
Shortly, both shoes offer a very similar experience. But if you generally prefer to spend time bouldering, gym climbing, and short routes, I'd mostly recommend the Futura because of the velcro closure system. Conversely, Genius provides a more precise fit and is an all-around performer for general overhanging/sport climbing.
- Genius is a little more supportive and more secure fit
- Futura is a tad softer and offers little more sensitivity
As you see, Genius is a little bit more performance shoes.
- Quick differences:
- Genius is for wide volume foot whereas Futura is for narrow volume.
- Genius is stiffer than Futura.
- Genius is more durable than Futura.
- Genius gives you to do a better ability of heel-hooking than Futura.
- Futura is a bit more sensitive than Genius.
- Genius has a slightly wider toe box which gives you a bit more comfort than Futura.
- Genius comes with the lace-up closure system, meanwhile, Futura comes with the velcro closure system.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.
Let's dive into it.
Rubber
All the previous posts I've always paid attention to the importance of rubber when it comes to comparing climbing shoes.
So, it's obvious why the rubber is so important because of rubber is the only thing between your foot and surface.
Okay, now what we have is, as I've already mentioned the beginning of this post about how small the differences between these shoes, they both come with Vibram XS Grip 2, 3 mm thicknesses.
Even the technologies of these shoes have is the same. They both have the P3 (Permanent Power Platform) and the No-Edge concept. BUT, if we look deeply into their features, we can see the little but important difference which is the midsole.
The Futura is equipped with 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (toe only) whereas the Genius is equipped with 1.1 mm Laspoflex. The difference is between midsoles that the Futura has a partial midsole which is mentioned "toe only". It means that the Genius's full-foot midsole provides more comfort and support than the Futuras. However, the Futura offers more power to the big toe.
What is P3?
The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.
What is the No-Edge concept?
The No-Edge technology eliminates the traditional "edges" of the sole, which allows the foot to come in closer contact with the rock surface, thus enhancing foot sensitivity and allowing optimum contact on the hold. You can check the video below that made by La Sportiva.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, pros & cons.
Futura
- Weight: 8.00 oz (225g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather/Synthetic leather
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (toe only) with P3®
- Sole: 3 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
La Sportiva Futura is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (narrow volume) climbing shoe which is designed for high-performance. Having the no-edge concept force you to climb more precisely. You have to relearn your footwork with La Sportiva Futura.
Pros
Cons
Genius
- Weight: 7.76 oz (220g)
- Last: PD 85
- Fit: Performance w/high asymmetry
- Upper: Suede leather/Microfiber
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 3 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
La Sportiva Genius is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry ( wide foot) climbing shoe is designed for high-performance. With the No-Edge concept, Genius offers you to relearn your footwork and trust your foot.