La Sportiva Otaki is on duty
As some of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.
After many climbing sessions with both shoes, I thought that it would be a good idea to publish a post around La Sportiva Otaki vs Skwama, so here you go.
Overview
First of all, if you're a newbie, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Finale or La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.
But, if you're at least an intermediate, then read on.
Shortly, if you're planning to do mostly technical sport climbing, trad climbing, or longer routes, I'd recommend the Otaki. But, if you're looking for performance and doing mostly bouldering, gym climbing, then I'd recommend the Skwama.
- I'd recommend basing your decision primarily on your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
- If you're doing gym climbing, overhanging, bouldering, or routes that require performance, go with the Skwama.
- If your answer is technical sport climbing, trad climbing, or crack climbing, go with the Otaki.
- Quick differences:
- The Skwama is softer and flexible than the Otaki.
- The Otaki has better edging capability than the Skwama.
- The Skwama's grip is better than the Otaki.
- The Otaki is a bit more comfortable than the Otaki.
- Quick similarity:
- They feature the same last (PD 75) which means that the shapes of the two models are similar.
- Both share the S-Heel.
- They're both designed for medium volume foot.
- Sizing:
- I'd recommend you can get your pair 1.5 sizes below your street shoe size for the Skwama whereas you can get your pair 0.5-1 size below for the Otaki (European sizes).
- Also, you might want to check La Sportiva's own quick comparison chart.
Before comparing them in detail, also you may want to take a look more detailed comparison which La Sportiva has.
Rubber
La Sportiva Skwama has extra rubber above the toe box
I think the rubber of climbing shoes is a really important parameter when we're comparing the shoes.
So, let's look deeply at the rubber of these shoes.
Firstly, I want to talk about the material of these shoes.
The Skwama is equipped with the Vibram XS Grip2. What the Vibram XS Grip 2 gives to the shoe is firstly pure friction. You can stick to the surface like glue.
On the other hand, the Otaki is equipped with Vibram XS Edge. So, what's with the Vibram XS Edge? As you understand from the name of this compound, the Vibram XS Edge provides edging and also comes with durability. This compound allows you to focus your weight on the tiniest of holds.
The other important rubber parameter is the rubber thickness. The Skwama has 3.5 mm thicknesses whereas the Otaki has 4 mm thicknesses. So, what does it mean the gap of thicknesses between these shoes?
With 4 mm thicknesses, the Otaki is more durable than the Skwama. This is the first thing that we're certain of. The second thing that I want to mention is sensitivity. With 3.5 mm thicknesses, the Skwama is more sensitive than the Otaki.
I've been climbing for 1.5 years. I tried many shoes from La Sportiva. As I improve my climbing skills, I understand the matter of climbing shoes, even small differences which I mentioned above about the thicknesses of these shoes which how to affect your climbing.
So, the other thing I want to remark is the amount of rubber these shoes have.
The Skwama has more amount of rubber than the Otaki (if you look at the pictures above and below). The Skwama's extra rubber on the top of the toe box allows you to do better toe-hooking.
Technology
La Sportiva Otaki is equipped with the Vibram XS Edge
Nowadays, the technology of climbing shoes has developed a lot.
These developments affect climbing shoes quite well for us.
These shoes have similar technologies which are the S-Heel and the P3.
The S-Heel prevents the heel from compressing around your foot on heel hooks. The heel provides snug when you do heel hooking and the heel pushes your toe to the front of the shoe. It's quite important while climbing.
The S-Heel provides proper heel hooking ability and the perfect fit. If you want to learn more information about the S-Heel, you might check the video below.
The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.
As you see, the technology of climbing shoes affects the performance of climbing shoes in a lot of ways. But, as I always say, there are no perfect shoes for every style of climbing.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Otaki
- Weight: 7.7 oz (218 gr)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Tech w/high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather/Microfiber
- Lining: Pacific (in front)
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Edge™
La Sportiva Otaki is an aggressive climbing shoe that comes with P3 and S-Heel technology. The Otaki offers a supportive heel-hook and closure system. La Sportiva Otaki provides a high-level performance across various rock climbing style. The Otaki is also drawing attention to edging ability.
Pros
Cons
Skwama
- Weight: 7.50 oz (210 g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather/Microfiber/Rubber toe cağ
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 0.8 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
La Sportiva Skwama is also aggressively downturned with high asymmetry climbing shoes for at least intermediate climbers. The Skwama really excels at toe and heel hooking. Having a split-sole design provides to reduce deformation when edging.
