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La Sportiva Finale vs Mythos

by

Chilling with my Mythos

As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now (see full post list at the bottom).

I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Mythos vs Finale would be helpful for most of you.

After many climbing sessions with both shoes, I'd easily say that both shoes are some of the most comfortable climbing shoes, I've ever worn.

So, if you're looking for comfortable climbing shoes, you're at the right place!

Overview

Firstly, if you're looking for more performance, I'd recommend you stop reading this and visit my La Sportiva Futura vs Skwama or Scarpa Furia S vs Drago posts.

But, if you have foot issues (such as bone spurs or injuries) or if you're looking for comfort, then read on.

In short, if you're planning to climb steep terrains, the place needs edging, go for La Sportiva Finale, also it's cheaper than the Mythos. But, if you're going for crack climbing, and looking for sensitivity and comfort, then I'd mostly recommend La Sportiva Mythos.

  • Mythos is better at crack climbing and, smearing.
  • Finale is a better decision for edging.

Before I go into technical details, I want to say that La Sportiva Finale is generally for beginner climbers' choice.

  • Quick Summary 
  • So, I'd recommend basing your decision primarily on your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
    • If your answer is crack climbing, face climbing, or big wall climbing (for comfort), go with the Mythos.
    • If you prefer mostly sport climbing, gym climbing, or trad climbing, go with the Finale.
  • Quick differences;
    • According to La Sportiva asymmetry and fit system, the Finale is PN 45 whereas the Mythos is RN 25 which means; 
    • La Sportiva Finale is more asymmetrical than the Mythos.
    • La Sportiva Mythos is round whereas the Finale is pointy.
    • The Mythos is a bit more comfortable than the Finale.
    • La Sportiva Finale is less sensitive than the Mythos.
  • Best uses;
    • Both shoes are comfortable and suitable for all-day climbing.
    • I'd definitely recommend the Finale if you're a beginner. Otherwise, if you're a bit experience, and looking for advanture go with the Mythos.

Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.

Let's dive into it.

Rubber

La Sportiva Mythos is so comfortable even my dogs realize

What I always say is rubber compound and rubber thickness are the most essential features when it comes to climbing shoes.

These two shoes have the same rubber compound but different thicknesses which explains basically why the Mythos is a bit more sensitive than the Finale.

The rubber compound and rubber thickness affect the durability of climbing shoes. This is the reason why I recommend the Finale for beginners. You can also go with the Mythos If you're a beginner, BUT I'll explain why the Finale is a better choice in this post.

  • Let's check out the rubber compound and thickness;
    • Rubber Compound: Both of them have the Vibram XS Edge
    • Thickness: La Sportiva Finale has 5 mm whereas the Mythos has 4 mm.

Vibram XS Edge: This compound is developed for maximum support to climbers. It offers edging capability and durability.

These shoes really fit beginner climbers because of their rubber compound and thickness. The features that these shoes have both of them are ready for the newbies.

The Vibram XS Edge is one of the best durable rubber compounds in the climbing shoe market. When it comes together with thickness, it becomes more durable. BUT what they said, everything comes with a price. If you want durable climbing shoes, you should sacrifice the sensitivity of the shoes.

Even though both are durable, because of the rubber compound and thickness they don't offer you sensitivity. BUT If you want to go to the sensitive one, go with the Mythos.

If you collect all the information that I've mentioned above, the result is the Finale; If you're a newbie. More durable, equal comfort.

Sizing

Here we are, one of the most important topics when you're getting new pair of climbing shoes. What size climbing shoes should I wear?

I'll be honest with you, there're lots of feet types; Egyptian, Roman, Greek, etc. Therefore, No one can predict which size will fit you.

I'll just do recommendations for what you want;

I assume, you're a newbie but you've been climbing for at least 2-3 months and you're motivated and looking for a new pair of climbing shoes. To size down 1-1.5 sizes from your Euro street size will be great for you. 

BUT, if you're more than a newbie, and looking for all-day climbing (such as crack, trad, or big wall climbing), you can go with 2 sizes from your Euro street size.

  • La Sportiva Finale comes with the P3 

The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little. 

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, and pros & cons.

La Sportiva Finale

  • Weight: 8.00 oz (226 g)
  • Last: PN 45
  • Construction: Slip Lasted
  • Upper: Leather / Microfiber
  • Lining: Unlined
  • Midsole: 1.1 mm Laspoflex with P3® 
  • Sole: 5 mm Vibram® XS Edge

The Finale is one of the most traditional climbing shoes. With unlined leather upper for a soft comfortable fit, the Finale shines like a diamond for beginners.

Also, the Finale comes with a 5 mm Vibram XS Edge with tensioned heel rand and powerhinge for high-end edging performance. The Finale's versatility is the most impressive feature of its. And, the technology that the Finale has is the Permanent Power Platform (the P3).

Pros

  • Durability
  • Edging
  • All-day comfort
  • Adjustable fit

Cons

  • Sensitivity  
  • Smearing
  • Sport Climbing
  • Quick Reminder 

Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use. 

Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one. 

You can check the video below that was made by one of the best climbers on our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

Mythos

  • Weight: 8.74 oz (284 g)
  • Last: RN 25
  • Fit: Tech with medium-low asymmetry
  • Upper: Leather
  • Lining: Unlined (Dry-Best® in tongue only) 
  • Midsole: 1.1 mm full-length LaspoFlex
  • Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™

    • La Sportiva Mythos is neutral with low asymmetry and lace-up closure system climbing shoes. They are designed for all-day comfort and great at smears & cracks. The soft unlined leather upper has excellent breathability and causes it to stretch up to a full size.

    Pros

    • All-day comfort  
    • Smearing
    • Durability

    Cons

    • Overhanging routes  
    • Laces
    • Sensitivity

    Scarpa Helix vs La Sportiva Tarantulace

    by

    La Sportiva Tarantulace in action

    As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

    I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Scarpa Helix would be helpful for most of you.

    The first thing you should know about them is that the Tarantulace is designed for newbies while the Helix offers a wide range of levels more than the Tarantulace, like a beginner to intermediate.

    Overview

    If you're looking for a performance, I'd recommend you to stop reading this post and check out my La Sportiva Testarossa vs Solution or Scarpa Drago vs Furia S posts.

    Shortly, if you're a newbie, spending lots of time in the gym, or looking for a shoe that is suitable for moderate multi-pitch routes, then the Tarantulace is an excellent option. BUT, if you're looking to push the grade and break into harder climbs, or spend time at trad climbing, then go with the Helix.

    • Tarantulace is more comfortable and more sticky.
    • Helix is more sensitive and softer.
    • Quick Summary 
    • Sizing:
      • They're designed for medium volume. You can check out Sportiva's Quick Comparison Chart and Scarpa's Family Tree.
      • For the Tarantulace, downsizing 1 to 1.5 full size from street shoes has worked for me, but if you want more comfort you can go down 0.5-1 full size. By the way, I have wide volume feet and my feet type is Roman. 
      • Also, according to La Sportiva, "Unlined slip-lasted shoes tend to stretch a bit more than lined shoes - about one full size." 
      • So, you might consider even 2 full sizes because the Tarantulace is slip-lasted.
      • For the Helix, downsizing 1-1.5 full size for performance, or 0.5-1 size for comfort will work for you guys.
    • Quick Differences:
      • The Tarantulace is equipped with 5 mm FriXion RS while the Helix is equipped with 3.5 mm Vibram XS Edge.
      • The upper material of the Helix is suede-leather whereas the Tarantulace's is leather/ synthetic leather.
      • The Tarantulace comes with a slip-lasted last while the Helix comes with a board-lasted last.
    • Quick Similarities:
      • They both come with a lace-up closure system.

    Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa's Climbing Collection or La Sportiva Comparison Chart.

    Let's dive into it.

    Differences

    La Sportiva Tarantulace

    Having a beginner climbing shoe like the Tarantulace which has 5 mm FriXion RS means that you can abuse these shoes.

    On the other hand, even though the Helix has Vibram XS rubber, you should know how to do proper footwork at the least for longer usage due to 3.5 mm thicknesses.

    It's really important to learn how to do the footwork for developing yourself at climbing. So, in my opinion, the Tarantulace has been helpful and will be helpful for most beginners to learn proper footwork and climbing techniques.

    Let me explain shortly the features of both compounds:

    FriXion RS:

    • gives you durability, optimum stick, and a noticeable performance advantage.

    Vibram XS Edge:

    • developed to provide maximum support edging and gives durability.

    The FriXion RS is an older technology than the Vibram XS Edge. There's an absolute winner of this competition about durability which is Vibram XS Edge. Solid, supportive, and new rubber technology.

    Another difference between these shoes is their upper material. As you can see in the conclusion chapter, the Tarantulace is covered up with leather / synthetic leather whereas the Helix is covered up with suede leather.

    Lined tongue for moisture management

    Wait, how is it possible that the Tarantualce is covered up two different materials. I'll tell you and show you how. Look at the picture on the right.

    • The synthetic leather overlay lacing harness.
    • It adds great support for entry-level climbers.
    • Also, the unlined leather is comfortable and soft, but there's a disadvantage to the unlined leather (slip-lasted) which stretches about one full size.


    • Quick Tip-1 

    What's the difference between suede leather and leather?

    • Leather is buttery and smooth.
    • Suede is matted and matty.
    • Leather is more durable because it's made from the exterior of the animal which is naturally the protective layer of the animals.

    I've talked about the upper materials, rubber compounds, and rubber thicknesses of these shoes up to now.

    So, there's the one last difference which I want to tell you guys is their lasts.

    The Tarantulace is equipped with slip-lasted whereas the Helix is equipped with board-lasted.

    • Quick Tip-2

    What is the meaning of climbing shoes last?

    A last is a foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last give shoes their volume, toe dimensions, heel, instep height, and also width.

    Most rock climbing shoes come with slip-lasted whereas some of them are board-lasted.

    Slip-lasted: Generally, the climbing shoes which are slip-lasted are more likely sensitive and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They get their stiffness from the midsole.

    Board-lasted: The climbing shoes with board-lasted tend to be obviously stiffer than slip-lasted due to the above information :). More stiffness means lack of sensitivity, but providing durability and comfort.

    Similarities

    The Helix (Left) vs The Tarantulace (Right)

    In my opinion, there's only one remarkable similarity between these shoes which is their closure system.

    They both come with a lace-up closure system which:

    • Allows you to adjust the fit of climbing shoes whatever way you want to.

    The other similarities are:

    • They can be resoled.
    • They both are neutral climbing shoes
    • They are designed for all-day comfort.
    • Quick Reminder

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use. 

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Helix

    • Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
    • Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
    • Last: FF - Flat Profile, Slightly Asymmetric
    • Closure: Lace
    • Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm Full Length
    • Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge 

    Scarpa Helix is designed to provide comfort, durability, and adjustable fit with a lace closure system.  It has also a flat and neutral shape and also has the Vibram XS Edge rubber compound which gives you to doing better edging capacity.

    Pros

    • Comfort  
    • Sensitivity
    • Edging
    • Adjustable fit

    Cons

    • Smearing  
    • Get off and on
    • Grip

    Tarantulace

    • Weight: 9.30 oz (260 g)
    • Upper: Leather / Synthetic Leather
    • Last: RN 45
    • Fit: Comfort with low asymmetry
    • Lining: Unlined
    • Midsole: 1.8 mm LaspoFlex
    • Sole: 5 mm FriXion® RS

    La Sportiva Tarantulace is the perfect shoe for a beginner to learn the basics. Its low asymmetrical design provides comfort without hurting your toes. Also, Its quick pull lacing harness delivers a snug precise fit.

    Pros

    • Grip  
    • Comfort
    • Adjustable fit
    • Breathability

    Cons

    • Edging  
    • Performance
    • Sensitivity

    Scarpa Origin vs La Sportiva Tarantula

    by

    LS Tarantula is on duty

    As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

    I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Tarantula vs Scarpa Origin would be helpful for most of you.

    So, both shoes are designed for beginner climbers who try to learn footwork and climbing techniques.

    Overview

    If you're looking for a performance, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and check out my La Sportiva Genius vs Futura or Scarpa Drago vs Furia S posts.

    Shortly, if one of these shoes will be your first shoes I'd recommend to you get whatever fits and is cheap for you because you're going to destroy them in probably less than 6 months.

    • Origin is stiffer and toe rand isn't durable.
    • Tarantula is more durable and more sticker.
    • Quick Summary 
    • Sizing:
      • They're both designed for medium volume. You can check out Sportiva's Quick Comparison Chart and Scarpa's Family Tree.
      • I already have LS Finale. So, My reference is LS Finale.
      • I wear a 43 (Euro size) in street shoes and I wear a 42 in LS Finale.
      • So, I tried both of them. The Tarantula fits snug and comfortable in 41.5 but 42 for the Origin.
      • I can easily say that the Tarantula has a wider toe box than the Origin. By the way, my feet type is Roman feet. Many users with Greek have a great experience with those shoes.
      • Therefore, My recommendation for the Tarantula, you can go down at least 1.5 sizes from your street shoe for a snug fit, but if you want comfort then go down a full size. But remember, they will stretch.
      • On the other hand, for the Origin, I'd recommend you go down at least a full size (euro) for a snug fit, a 0.5 size for comfort.
    • Quick differences:
      • The Tarantula is equipped with FriXion RS while the Origin is equipped with Scarpa Vision rubber.
      • The upper material of the Tarantula is leather, but the Origin's upper is suede leather.
    • Quick Similarities:
      • They both come with a strap closure system.
      • Both have 5 mm rubber thicknesses.

    Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa's Climbing Collection Structure and La Sportiva Comparison Chart.

    Differences

    Scarpa Origin

    Understanding the climbing rubber compound is crucial because the rubber is the only thing between your feet and the surface.

    The most important difference between these shoes is their rubber compound.

    Even though their rubber thickness of these shoes is identical at 5 mm's, we can understand that easily why the Tarantula is the better option between these shoes because of the different rubber compound that they use.

    The Tarantula is equipped with the FriXion RS whereas the Origin is equipped with the Scarpa's Vision.

    Let me explain shortly the features of both compounds.

    FriXion:

    • gives you durability, an optimum stick, and noticeable performance advantage.

    Scarpa's Vision:

    • designed to deliver a balance of performance and resilience to the demands of a new climber's unpracticed feet.

    I'd say that one of the main reasons why the tarantula is durable than the Origin is the rubber compound. According to my reasearch and experience with these shoes, and some users experience, the FriXion is better than Scarpa's Vision.

    The other reason is their upper material. The Tarantula is covered up with leather while the Origin has suede leather.

    • Quick Tip 

    What's the difference between suede leather and leather?

    • Leather is buttery and smooth
    • Suede is matted and matty.
    • Leather is more durable because it's made from the exterior of the animal which is naturally the protective layer of the animals' skin.

    Having climbing shoes which has a leather upper will tell us, also they both have unlined leather. They both definitely will stretch.

    Last but not least, their technologies. As I know, and from my research and experience, the Tarantula hasn't any kind of technologies like other La Sportiva climbing shoes have but the Origin has the PAF.

    What is the PAF?

    • The PAF stands for Pressure Absorbing Fit.
    • It's about the heel system, so active randing system.
    • The heel system with the PAF helps both spread the force of the heel tension and increase the fit of the heel.

    You might want to check assembly of the Origin, if you wonder how it affects heel and Scarpa's assembly upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4).

    Similarities

    Scarpa Origin (Left) vs La Sportiva Tarantula (Right)

    There're some remarkable similarities between those shoes.

    Firstly, they both have a velcro closure system which;

    • allows you to easily get on and off between your climbing sessions.

    Secondly, they both are slip-lasted. Wait, what's the last?

    • The last is a foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last give shoes their volume, toe dimensions, heel, instep height, and also width.
    • Most rock climbing shoes come with slip-lasted whereas some of them are board-lasted.
      • Slip-lasted: Generally, the slip-lasted climbing shoes are more likely sensitive and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They get their stiffness from the midsole.

    The last one is their rubber thickness which is identical at 5 mm:

    • It takes from sensitivity but gives the shoes more durability.
    • Quick Reminder 

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use. 

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Origin

    • Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
    • Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
    • Last: FFX - Flat, Slightly Asymmetric
    • Symmetry: Slightly Asymmetric
    • Closure: Strap
    • Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm 3/4 length
    • Sole Rubber: 5 mm Scarpa Vision®

    The Origin is designed for those looking comfortable and durable. The Origin provides easy to get on and off. It has a flat and neutral shape and also a low-angled toe box which makes it perfect for all-day use.

    Pros

    • Comfort  
    • Easy on and off
    • Durability

    Cons

    • Edging
    • Smearing
    • Sensitivity

    Tarantula

    • Weight: 10.23 oz (290 g)
    • Upper: Leather
    • Last: RL45
    • Fit: Comfort with low asymmetry
    • Lining: None
    • Midsole: 1.8 mm LaspoFlex
    • Sole: 5 mm FriXion® RS

    The Tarantula is designed for comfort, all-day climbing. With an unlined upper, the Tarantula provides excellent moisture management. Having sticky FriXion rubber also provides sticks to plastic and rock equally as well. A highly adjustable velcro closure system adapts to lots of foot shape.

    Pros

    • Grip  
    • Durability
    • All around climbing
    • Easily get on and off

    Cons

    • Edging  
    • Sensitivity
    • Smearing

    La Sportiva Finale vs Scarpa Helix

    by

    La Sportiva Finale

    As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

    I thought that a post devoted specifically to Scarpa Helix vs La Sportiva Finale would be helpful for most of you.

    Scarpa and La Sportiva have long been compared to each other. Especially, their climbing shoes.

    So, they're both neutral climbing shoes and generally are preferred by beginner climbers.

    Overview

    If you're looking for a performance, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and check out my La Sportiva Solution vs Testarossa and Scarpa Furia S vs Drago posts.

    In short, if you're a complete newbie, and you have no idea about climbing but looking for a beginner shoe that has solid durability so you can use it without worrying about wearing out, then go with the Finale. But, you've already spent some time climbing, and you want more sensitive beginner shoes, then go with the Helix.

    • Finale is stiffer and more durable.
    • Helix is more sensitive and provides more performance.
    • Quick Summary 
    • Before I recommend one of these shoes, let's clear things up.
      • First, will it be your first climbing shoe?
        • If the answer is yes, go with La Sportiva Finale. 
      • Secondly, if you're already doing climbing for a while;
        • Then, go with Scarpa Helix to feel the rock and performance.
      • Last but not least, if you're looking for a performance to do multi-pitch climbing, crack climbing, and trad climbing, go with La Sportiva Finale.
    • Quick differences:
      • The Finale is equipped with 5 mm rubber thicknesses whereas the Helix is equipped with 3.5 mm.
    • Quick similarities:
      • Both come with the Vibram XS Edge.
      • They have a lace-up closure system.
      • They're designed for all-day comfort.
    • Best uses:
      • La Sportiva Finale: All-around, crack climbing, multi-pitch climbing, indoor climbing.
      • Scarpa Helix: All-around, sport climbing, indoor climbing.

    Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa's Family Tree or La Sportiva Comparison Chart.

    Differences

    La Sportiva Finale

    Firstly, they're from different brands. Therefore, their design and look are obviously different from each other.

    But, most importantly, their rubber thicknesses are different from each other.

    The Finale is equipped with a 5 mm Vibram XS Edge whereas the Helix is equipped with a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Edge.

    They both take what Vibram XS Edge features. But, the gap between thicknesses (not only, but most important) determine which one is more durable.

    Ten points for La Sportiva Finale which is thicker than Scarpa Helix.

    Another thing that determines durability is the upper material. The Finale is equipped with leather while the Helix is equipped with suede leather.

    • Quick Tip

    What's the difference between suede leather and leather?

    • Leather is buttery and smooth.
    • Suede is matted and matty.
    • Leather is more durable because it's made from the exterior of the animal which is naturally the protective layer of the animals' skin.

    Another ten points for La Sportiva Finale...

    Let's continue around durability which is crucial.

    The last thing that I'll talk about below is their lasts.

    • Quick Tip-2

    What is the meaning of climbing shoes last?

    A last is a foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last give shoes their volume, toe dimensions, heel, instep height, and also width.

    Most rock climbing shoes come with slip-lasted whereas some of them are board-lasted.

    So, the Finale is slip-lasted but the Helix is board-lasted. What's the difference between them?

    Slip-lasted: Generally, the climbing shoes which are slip-lasted are more likely sensitive and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They get their stiffness from the midsole.

    Board-lasted: The climbing shoes with board-lasted tend to be obviously stiffer than slip-lasted due to the above information :). More stiffness means lack of sensitivity, but providing durability and comfort.

    Then, ten points for the Helix. Okay, let me sum up the final results.

    The Finale takes 20 points while the Helix takes 10 points. The winner of durability is the Finale.

    • La Sportiva Finale has the P3 whereas Scarpa Helix has the active randing system 

    The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.

    Shortly, the active randing system strives to achieve maximum sensitivity for your feet and yet still allow you good edging power.

    You might want to check this out if you wonder how Scarpa Helix's assembly is created with upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4).

    Similarities

    Scarpa Helix (Left) vs La Sportiva Finale (Right)

    There're two remarkable similarities between these shoes.

    The first one is their closure system, as you can see in the right picture.

    Both have a lace-up closure system which:

    • Allows you to adjust the fit of climbing shoes whatever way you want to.

    The other similarity is their rubber compound. They're both equipped with the Vibram XS Edge which is:

    • Developed to provide maximum support edging and gives durability.
    • Quick Reminder 

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use. 

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Helix

    • Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
    • Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
    • Last: FF - Flat Profile, Slightly Asymmetric
    • Closure: Lace
    • Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm Full Length
    • Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge  

    Scarpa Helix is designed to provide comfort, durability, and adjustable fit with a lace closure system.  It has also a flat and neutral shape and also has the Vibram XS Edge rubber compound which gives you to doing better edging capacity.

    Pros

    • Comfort  
    • Sensitivity
    • Edging
    • Adjustable fit

    Cons

    • Durability  
    • Crack climbing
    • Hard to get on and off

    Finale

    • Weight: 8.00 oz (226 g)
    • Last: PN 45
    • Construction: Slip Lasted
    • Upper: Leather / Microfiber
    • Lining: Unlined
    • Midsole: 1.1 mm Laspoflex with P3® 
    • Sole: 5 mm Vibram® XS Edge 

    The Finale is one of the most traditional climbing shoes. With unlined leather upper for a soft comfortable fit, the Finale shines like a diamond for beginners.

    Also, the Finale comes with a 5 mm Vibram XS Edge with tensioned heel rand and powerhinge for high-end edging performance. The Finale's versatility is the most impressive feature of its. And, the technology that the Finale has is the Permanent Power Platform (the P3).

    Pros

    • Durability  
    • Edging
    • All-day comfort
    • Adjustable fit

    Cons

    • Sensitivity  
    • Sport Climbing
    • Smearing

    La Sportiva Kataki vs Katana Lace

    by

    La Sportiva Kataki is on duty

    As some of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now. 

    Even though many of the features of the Katana Lace is nearly identical to that of the Kataki, these shoes have still differences. 

    I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Kataki vs Katana would be helpful for most of you.

    Overview

    If you're a newbie, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace and La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace posts.

    If, on the other hand, you're at least intermediate, then read on.

    In short, if you're planning to do mostly sport climbing, steep climbing, or crack climbing, I'd recommend the Kataki. But, you're mostly doing slab, trad climbing, or all-day multi-pitch climbing, then I'd recommend the Katana Lace.

    • Kataki is more downturned and has a lower volume toe box.
    • Katana Lace is more comfortable.
    • Quick Summary 
    • I'd recommend basing your decision primarily on your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
      • If you're doing trad climbing, long multi-pitch routes, or routes that require a bit of comfort, go with the Katana Lace.
      • If your answer is routes that require smearing, single pitch, steep climbing, crack climbing, or technical granite crack, go with the Kataki.
    • Quick differences:
      • The Kataki is a little narrower and a touch more symmetrical than the Katana Lace.
      • The Kataki is more aggressive than the Katana Lace.
      • The Katana Lace is more comfortable than the Kataki.
      • The Kataki has a lot more rand tension on the Achilles.
      • The Katana Lace has PD 55 whereas the Kataki has PD 75.
      • The Kataki has S-Heel technology while the Katana Lace hasn't.
      • The Kataki is for low volume whereas the Katana Lace is for medium volume.
    • Quick similarity:
      • They both come with P3 technology.
      • They have 4 mm rubber thicknesses and the Vibram XS Edge.
      • They both have a lace closure system.

    Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.

    Similarities

    Still comfortable while chilling (La Sportiva Katana Lace)

    As I always say, one of the important features of climbing shoes is the compound of the rubber.

    They're a lot of similarities between these shoes and you might guess the one and important similarity is the rubber compound.

    They're both equipped with the Vibram XS Edge. The Vibram XS Edge offers us to do better edging and gives to shoe durability.

    The other important rubber parameter, the thicknesses of the rubber, is also identical at 4 mm's. It also gives shoe durability but takes sensitivity. Also, their midsole is 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3.

    • They both come with the P3 technology 

    The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.

    As I mentioned, they have a lot in common. They also have the same closure system which is a lace-up closure system. The Lace-up closure system allows you to adjust the fit of climbing shoes whatever way you want to.

    Differences

    Trying to break-in the Kataki

    The first difference that you might easily see is the amount of downturn and asymmetry of the two shoes' lasts.

    The Kataki's last is PD 75 which means that the Kataki is more downturned and aggressive whereas the Katana Lace's last is PD55 which means that the Katana Lace is more comfortable.

    Secondly, their asymmetry is different. The Kataki has a slightly higher degree of asymmetry which means that the Kataki has a more pointy toe box. Also, their volume is different from each other. The Kataki is for low volume foot whereas the Katana Lace is for medium volume.

    The last difference that I want to talk about is their upper. The Katana Lace has a leather upper whereas the Kataki has suede leather which means that The Katana Lace stretches more than the Kataki.

    • The Kataki comes with the S-Heel 

    The S-Heel construction provides better heel-hooking and perfect heel cup fit.

    This feature gives better heel-hooking maneuverability to the Kataki

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    • Quick Reminder

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use. 

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one. 

    You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Kataki

    • Weight: 9.4 oz (266g)
    • Last: PD 75
    • Fit: Performance w/high asymmetry
    • Upper: Suede Leather/Microfiber
    • Lining: Pacific (in front and black)
    • Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
    • Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Edge™

    La Sportiva Kataki offers a high-level performance and excels at toeing-in on micro-edges. This shoe is designed for steep edging and precise footwork.

    Pros

    • Heel-hooks  
    • Performance
    • Edging
    • Toe-hooks

    Cons

    • Comfort  
    • Sensitivity

    Katana Lace

    • Weight: 8.71 oz (247 g)
    • Last: PD 55
    • Fit: Tech Fit w/Medium asymmetry
    • Upper: Leather /Lorica®
    • Lining: Pacific (forefoot and back)
    • Midsole: 1.1 mm full-length LaspoFlex with P3®
    • Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Edge™ 

    La Sportiva Katana Lace is a slight downturn, asymmetrical toe box, and having XS Edge make it better at edging. The Katana is an all-around climbing shoe and also allows you to do edging, smearing, slightly high performance with great comfort.

    Pros

    • Durability  
    • Comfort
    • All-around
    • Edging

    Cons

    • Not excel anything
    • Sensitivity
    • Heel-hooks