La Sportiva Tarantulace in action
As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.
I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Scarpa Helix would be helpful for most of you.
The first thing you should know about them is that the Tarantulace is designed for newbies while the Helix offers a wide range of levels more than the Tarantulace, like a beginner to intermediate.
Overview
If you're looking for a performance, I'd recommend you to stop reading this post and check out my La Sportiva Testarossa vs Solution or Scarpa Drago vs Furia S posts.
Shortly, if you're a newbie, spending lots of time in the gym, or looking for a shoe that is suitable for moderate multi-pitch routes, then the Tarantulace is an excellent option. BUT, if you're looking to push the grade and break into harder climbs, or spend time at trad climbing, then go with the Helix.
- Tarantulace is more comfortable and more sticky.
- Helix is more sensitive and softer.
- Sizing:
- They're designed for medium volume. You can check out Sportiva's Quick Comparison Chart and Scarpa's Family Tree.
- For the Tarantulace, downsizing 1 to 1.5 full size from street shoes has worked for me, but if you want more comfort you can go down 0.5-1 full size. By the way, I have wide volume feet and my feet type is Roman.
- Also, according to La Sportiva, "Unlined slip-lasted shoes tend to stretch a bit more than lined shoes - about one full size."
- So, you might consider even 2 full sizes because the Tarantulace is slip-lasted.
- For the Helix, downsizing 1-1.5 full size for performance, or 0.5-1 size for comfort will work for you guys.
- Quick Differences:
- The Tarantulace is equipped with 5 mm FriXion RS while the Helix is equipped with 3.5 mm Vibram XS Edge.
- The upper material of the Helix is suede-leather whereas the Tarantulace's is leather/ synthetic leather.
- The Tarantulace comes with a slip-lasted last while the Helix comes with a board-lasted last.
- Quick Similarities:
- They both come with a lace-up closure system.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa's Climbing Collection or La Sportiva Comparison Chart.
Let's dive into it.
Differences
Having a beginner climbing shoe like the Tarantulace which has 5 mm FriXion RS means that you can abuse these shoes.
On the other hand, even though the Helix has Vibram XS rubber, you should know how to do proper footwork at the least for longer usage due to 3.5 mm thicknesses.
It's really important to learn how to do the footwork for developing yourself at climbing. So, in my opinion, the Tarantulace has been helpful and will be helpful for most beginners to learn proper footwork and climbing techniques.
Let me explain shortly the features of both compounds:
FriXion RS:
- gives you durability, optimum stick, and a noticeable performance advantage.
Vibram XS Edge:
- developed to provide maximum support edging and gives durability.
The FriXion RS is an older technology than the Vibram XS Edge. There's an absolute winner of this competition about durability which is Vibram XS Edge. Solid, supportive, and new rubber technology.
Another difference between these shoes is their upper material. As you can see in the conclusion chapter, the Tarantulace is covered up with leather / synthetic leather whereas the Helix is covered up with suede leather.
Lined tongue for moisture management
Wait, how is it possible that the Tarantualce is covered up two different materials. I'll tell you and show you how. Look at the picture on the right.
- The synthetic leather overlay lacing harness.
- It adds great support for entry-level climbers.
- Also, the unlined leather is comfortable and soft, but there's a disadvantage to the unlined leather (slip-lasted) which stretches about one full size.
What's the difference between suede leather and leather?
- Leather is buttery and smooth.
- Suede is matted and matty.
- Leather is more durable because it's made from the exterior of the animal which is naturally the protective layer of the animals.
I've talked about the upper materials, rubber compounds, and rubber thicknesses of these shoes up to now.
So, there's the one last difference which I want to tell you guys is their lasts.
The Tarantulace is equipped with slip-lasted whereas the Helix is equipped with board-lasted.
What is the meaning of climbing shoes last?
A last is a foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last give shoes their volume, toe dimensions, heel, instep height, and also width.
Most rock climbing shoes come with slip-lasted whereas some of them are board-lasted.
Slip-lasted: Generally, the climbing shoes which are slip-lasted are more likely sensitive and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They get their stiffness from the midsole.
Board-lasted: The climbing shoes with board-lasted tend to be obviously stiffer than slip-lasted due to the above information :). More stiffness means lack of sensitivity, but providing durability and comfort.
Similarities
The Helix (Left) vs The Tarantulace (Right)
In my opinion, there's only one remarkable similarity between these shoes which is their closure system.
They both come with a lace-up closure system which:
- Allows you to adjust the fit of climbing shoes whatever way you want to.
The other similarities are:
- They can be resoled.
- They both are neutral climbing shoes
- They are designed for all-day comfort.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Helix
- Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
- Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
- Last: FF - Flat Profile, Slightly Asymmetric
- Closure: Lace
- Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm Full Length
- Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge
Scarpa Helix is designed to provide comfort, durability, and adjustable fit with a lace closure system. It has also a flat and neutral shape and also has the Vibram XS Edge rubber compound which gives you to doing better edging capacity.
Pros
Cons
Tarantulace
- Weight: 9.30 oz (260 g)
- Upper: Leather / Synthetic Leather
- Last: RN 45
- Fit: Comfort with low asymmetry
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 1.8 mm LaspoFlex
- Sole: 5 mm FriXion® RS
La Sportiva Tarantulace is the perfect shoe for a beginner to learn the basics. Its low asymmetrical design provides comfort without hurting your toes. Also, Its quick pull lacing harness delivers a snug precise fit.
