As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.
I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Tarantula vs Scarpa Origin would be helpful for most of you.
So, both shoes are designed for beginner climbers who try to learn footwork and climbing techniques.
Overview
If you're looking for a performance, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and check out my La Sportiva Genius vs Futura or Scarpa Drago vs Furia S posts.
Shortly, if one of these shoes will be your first shoes I'd recommend to you get whatever fits and is cheap for you because you're going to destroy them in probably less than 6 months.
- Sizing:
- They're both designed for medium volume. You can check out Sportiva's Quick Comparison Chart and Scarpa's Family Tree.
- I already have LS Finale. So, My reference is LS Finale.
- I wear a 43 (Euro size) in street shoes and I wear a 42 in LS Finale.
- So, I tried both of them. The Tarantula fits snug and comfortable in 41.5 but 42 for the Origin.
- I can easily say that the Tarantula has a wider toe box than the Origin. By the way, my feet type is Roman feet. Many users with Greek have a great experience with those shoes.
- Therefore, My recommendation for the Tarantula, you can go down at least 1.5 sizes from your street shoe for a snug fit, but if you want comfort then go down a full size. But remember, they will stretch.
- On the other hand, for the Origin, I'd recommend you go down at least a full size (euro) for a snug fit, a 0.5 size for comfort.
- Quick differences:
- The Tarantula is equipped with FriXion RS while the Origin is equipped with Scarpa Vision rubber.
- The upper material of the Tarantula is leather, but the Origin's upper is suede leather.
- Quick Similarities:
- They both come with a strap closure system.
- Both have 5 mm rubber thicknesses.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa's Climbing Collection Structure and La Sportiva Comparison Chart.
Differences
Understanding the climbing rubber compound is crucial because the rubber is the only thing between your feet and the surface.
The most important difference between these shoes is their rubber compound.
Even though their rubber thickness of these shoes is identical at 5 mm's, we can understand that easily why the Tarantula is the better option between these shoes because of the different rubber compound that they use.
The Tarantula is equipped with the FriXion RS whereas the Origin is equipped with the Scarpa's Vision.
Let me explain shortly the features of both compounds.
FriXion:
- gives you durability, an optimum stick, and noticeable performance advantage.
Scarpa's Vision:
- designed to deliver a balance of performance and resilience to the demands of a new climber's unpracticed feet.
I'd say that one of the main reasons why the tarantula is durable than the Origin is the rubber compound. According to my reasearch and experience with these shoes, and some users experience, the FriXion is better than Scarpa's Vision.
The other reason is their upper material. The Tarantula is covered up with leather while the Origin has suede leather.
What's the difference between suede leather and leather?
- Leather is buttery and smooth
- Suede is matted and matty.
- Leather is more durable because it's made from the exterior of the animal which is naturally the protective layer of the animals' skin.
Having climbing shoes which has a leather upper will tell us, also they both have unlined leather. They both definitely will stretch.
Last but not least, their technologies. As I know, and from my research and experience, the Tarantula hasn't any kind of technologies like other La Sportiva climbing shoes have but the Origin has the PAF.
What is the PAF?
- The PAF stands for Pressure Absorbing Fit.
- It's about the heel system, so active randing system.
- The heel system with the PAF helps both spread the force of the heel tension and increase the fit of the heel.
You might want to check assembly of the Origin, if you wonder how it affects heel and Scarpa's assembly upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4).
Similarities
There're some remarkable similarities between those shoes.
Firstly, they both have a velcro closure system which;
- allows you to easily get on and off between your climbing sessions.
Secondly, they both are slip-lasted. Wait, what's the last?
- The last is a foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last give shoes their volume, toe dimensions, heel, instep height, and also width.
- Most rock climbing shoes come with slip-lasted whereas some of them are board-lasted.
- Slip-lasted: Generally, the slip-lasted climbing shoes are more likely sensitive and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They get their stiffness from the midsole.
The last one is their rubber thickness which is identical at 5 mm:
- It takes from sensitivity but gives the shoes more durability.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Origin
- Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
- Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
- Last: FFX - Flat, Slightly Asymmetric
- Symmetry: Slightly Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm 3/4 length
- Sole Rubber: 5 mm Scarpa Vision®
The Origin is designed for those looking comfortable and durable. The Origin provides easy to get on and off. It has a flat and neutral shape and also a low-angled toe box which makes it perfect for all-day use.
Pros
Cons
Tarantula
- Weight: 10.23 oz (290 g)
- Upper: Leather
- Last: RL45
- Fit: Comfort with low asymmetry
- Lining: None
- Midsole: 1.8 mm LaspoFlex
- Sole: 5 mm FriXion® RS
The Tarantula is designed for comfort, all-day climbing. With an unlined upper, the Tarantula provides excellent moisture management. Having sticky FriXion rubber also provides sticks to plastic and rock equally as well. A highly adjustable velcro closure system adapts to lots of foot shape.