La Sportiva Otaki offers quite comfortable experience
As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.
Some of the climbers say that the Otaki is a modified Miura and they continue that both shoes have similar rubber, similar last, etc.
I'm here to reveal their similarity and differences, and a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Miura vs Otaki would be helpful for most of you.
Overview
If you're beginner, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Finale and La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.
But, if you're at least intermediate, then read on.
In short, they're both all-around climbing shoes. But, if you're planning to climb mostly overhanging routes and vertical face climbing, then I'd recommend the Otaki. On the other hand, if you prefer to go to crack climbing or sport climbing, go with the Miura.
- Best uses:
- Both shoes are all-around climbing shoes.
- Otaki offers a powerful face-climbing experience, and can also be used for jamming cracks.
- Miura is like an arsenal for small edges.
- Quick differences:
- Otaki's toe box is wider than the Miura.
- Otaki is designed for medium foot and also has a narrow heel for better heel-hooking whereas the Miura is designed for a narrow foot.
- Otaki has a velcro closure system, while the Miura has a laced-up system.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.
Let's dive into it.
Similarities
The rubber compound of climbing shoes is a highly important, La Spoartiva Otaki.
The salient similarity of both shoes is their rubber and thickness. Both shoes are equipped with 4mm Vibram XS Edge.
Vibram XS Edge is a rubber compound that is developed for maximum support, edging, and durability.
The other important similarity they have is their last.
They are built on the PD 75 last. The PD is essential data to understand how aggressive the geometry of shoe is. Also, the PD stands for power (pointy)/downturn, when the number is greater, it means that more aggressive dowturn and pointy climbing shoes.
Differences
La Sportiva Miura is edging master
The striking difference between these shoes when you look for the first time is their closure system.
The Otaki is equipped with the velcro closure system whereas the Miura is equipped with the laced-up closure system.
Both systems offer different features to these shoes.
I want to start with the Otaki. The velcro closure system offer to climber easy take on and off. If you hear like this kinda thing "easy take-off and on" in climbing shoes, I'd recommend you to think about what's the purpose of this while climbing.
The first thing that comes to my mind is "What kind of climbing am I planning to do most?".
If you're planning to go to short routes, bouldering, I'd recommend the Otaki with the velcro closure system. BUT, if you're doing mostly multi-pitch climbing, then go with the Miura with the lace-up.
One of the important advantages of the lace-up closure is the adjustable fit. You can easily set up the fitting.
The other difference between these shoes that the technologies they have. The Otaki have more technologies than the Miura which are;
The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.
Maintaining the downturned shape of the shoe gives the durability to the shoes, also the other advantage of the P3 technology offers more supportive climbing shoes.
The S-Heel construction provides better heel-hooking and perfect heel cup fit.
This feature gives better heel-hooking maneuverability to the Otaki.
Miura's lack this feature.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, and pros & cons
Miura
- Weight: 8.43 oz (239 g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather
- Lining: Dentex
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (forefoot only)
- Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™
La Sportiva Miura is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (low volume) climbing shoes which are designed for high-performance, plus The Miura is on the market for more than a decade but still a preferred model - it's a quite good climbing shoe.
Pros
Cons
Otaki
- Weight: 7.7 oz (218g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Tech w/high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather/Microfiber
- Lining: Pacific (in front)
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™
La Sportiva Otaki is an aggressive climbing shoe that comes with P3 and S-Heel technology. The Otaki offers a supportive heel-hook and closure system. La Sportiva Otaki provides a high-level performance across various rock climbing style. The Otaki is also drawing attention to edging ability.
