Evolv Phantom is good at gym climbing.
As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.
I have tried lots of climbing shoe brands since this time such as La Sportiva, Scarpa, and Tenaya, and nowadays I've been trying Evolv's Evo Lab-Line and posting about my experiences with these Evolv's climbing shoes.
I thought that a post devoted specifically to Evolv Phantom vs Shaman would be helpful for most of you since I've tried both shoes recently.
Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my Scarpa Helix vs La Sportiva Finale and Scarpa Origin vs Helix posts if you're a newbie.
But, if you're climbing for a while and looking for performance-based climbing shoes, then go on.
In short, The Shaman's aggressive profile makes it ideal for bouldering on various rock types, multi-pitch technical routes, and gym climbing. The tensioned heel rand ensures power and support for small edges and off-vertical angles. Meanwhile, the Phantom shines on steep angles and is perfect for bouldering, gym climbing on modern features, and steep single-pitch routes.
- Similarities:
- Both shoes feature a vegan-friendly synthetic upper (Synthratek VX) that offers durability and minimal stretch over time.
- The Shaman and Phantom both have an aggressive downturned toe profile, which enhances performance and allows for pulling, and toe hooking.
- Both climbing shoes utilize a 4.2mm TRAX® SAS outsole that provides the best friction and maximum durability.
- The Shaman and Phantom are equipped with Evolv's Variable Thickness Rand (VTR) system, which uses thinner rand rubber in areas to reduce pressure points and hot spots, as well as thicker rubber in high-wear zones near the toe for increased durability and performance.
- Both shoes come with a velcro closure system.
- Differences:
- The Shaman is designed for versatile climbers who need a balance of performance and comfort, while the Phantom is tailored for technical climbers who require equal sensitivity and power from their climbing shoes.
- The Shaman boasts a tensioned heel rand that provides power and support on small edges while remaining flexible for off-vertical angles. The Phantom's heel features the Dark Spine S midsole, which helps drive power through the foot to the toe box while maintaining sensitivity for small features.
- The Shaman utilizes a three-strap closure system for a supportive and powerful fit, while the Phantom features a six-loop Compression Closure System (CCS) connected by a single pull Velcro tab for a snug fit similar to a lace-up shoe with easy adjustability.
- Usage:
- Evolv Shaman: Bouldering, multi-pitch technical routes, gym climbing.
- Evolv Phantom: Bouldering, gym climbing on modern features, steep single-pitch routes.
Before talking about the details of these shoes, you might want to check the "Shoe Comparison Info Table" below which I've created according to information that I collected from Evolv. Before checking the comparison table, let me tell you how you evaluate;
- Camber (Downturned Shape): The camber of the shoe determines how aggressive or neutral a shoe will feel and what type of climbing shoe is better for. A high-camber (5-star) shoe will put your foot in a downward curled position better for overhanging climbs or putting more power on the toe. A flat (1-star) shoe will be more comfortable for long climbs and smearing.
- Stiffness / Sensitive: Stiffness and sensitivity is determined by the type and thickness of the midsole and the softness and thickness of the rubber. A stiff shoe will support more weight on a smaller area with less "feel" when edging and a softer and more sensitive shoe will allow the climber to feel the rock beneath the feet. A stiff shoe would be a 5 star whereas a sensitive shoe would be 1 star.
- Downturned Toe: A downturned toe will put the big toe in a curled position to allow the climber to either climb steeper angles by pulling on the hold. A flat shoe (1-star) will keep your toes fairly flat while a downturned-toe high-performance shoe (5-star) will pre-curl your big toe when put on.
- Width: Evolv classifies their shoes by wide, medium, and narrow forefoot fits. The narrow shoes will also have a lower overall volume in the forefoot and heel and the wider shoes will typically have a higher volume in the forefoot and instep. The narrow shoes would be 3 stars whereas the wide shoes would be 1 star.
Let's dive into it!
Rubber
Evolv Phantom is on duty!
The rubber used in both the Evolv Shaman and Evolv Phantom is the TRAX® SAS outsole, which is 4.2mm thick.
This high-quality rubber is designed to provide the best possible friction while ensuring maximum durability. It offers a balance of stickiness and edging power, making it suitable for various climbing styles and rock surfaces.
The TRAX® SAS rubber is formulated to perform well in a wide range of temperatures and is well-regarded for its ability to maintain grip on both indoor and outdoor climbing surfaces.
In addition, both shoes feature the Molded VTR system (Variable Thickness Rand), which places thinner rand rubber in areas to reduce pressure points and hot spots around the foot, as well as thicker rubber in high-wear zones near the toe for enhanced durability and performance.
This thoughtful design ensures that climbers can trust the rubber on these shoes to provide consistent, reliable performance throughout their climbing sessions.
Evolv Shaman comes with Love Bump & Knuckle Box
These two features work in parallel to eliminate dead space under your toes and create a comfortable and powerful sensation out of the box! Please visit the Evolv website to understand more about how these features work.
The other technology that I'd like to mention is Dark Spine which only the Phantom has. Dark Spine is a heel midsole that protects the Calcaneus bone while heel hooking and helps lock the heel into the shoe.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that was made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Evolv Shaman Sizing
After a good session, Evolv Shaman.
The Evolv Shaman is renowned for its exceptional comfort as a high-performance climbing shoe, making it a popular choice among climbers.
The split tongue not only allows for easy on and off but also contributes to the shoe's remarkable comfort, even when the Velcro straps are tightly fastened. The synthetic upper features a suede-like texture, further enhancing the overall comfort.
As for sizing, the Shaman is recommended for climbers with narrow to medium feet due to its fairly wide toe box.
Evolv suggests choosing your street shoe size for a performance fit or going half a size up for a more casual fit. Keep in mind that like all climbing shoes, the Shaman will break in and potentially stretch up to half-size after a few sessions.
The shoe's comfort is further accentuated by its narrow-medium fit and the Love Bump, which keeps your toe in a powerful position without the need for a tight heel pressing into your Achilles.
The low-profile Velcro straps remain unnoticeable during crack jams, slab flexing, and smearing. To achieve optimal comfort and performance, consider sizing the Shaman to your street shoe size or even half a size up.
Evolv Phantom Sizing
The Evolv Phantom offers a comfortable fit for sport climbing and warmer environments when sized to your street shoe size. For a performance-oriented bouldering fit, it's advised to go down half a size, with women potentially needing to drop more than half a size.
The Phantom's abundant rubber coverage ensures minimal stretch throughout the shoe. One of its standout features is the innovative closure system, which consists of six loops connected to a single pull Velcro tab.
This design delivers the snug fit of a lace-up shoe while allowing for quick and easy adjustments. The closure system impressively molds the shoe to your arch and heel, effectively eliminating any hot spots and ensuring optimal comfort during your climbs.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Evolv Phantom
- Closure: Straps
- Midsole: MX-P: 1.6mm, AVT & TPS RUBBER, Love Bump
- Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
- Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
- Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
- Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
- Weight: 9 oz per shoe (255 gr)
Evolv Phantom is a powerful and sensitive climbing shoe designed for outdoor climbing and steep boulder problems. Its stiff construction provides excellent support on small holds, while its aggressive profile ensures your foot is always in a power position.
The Phantom's well-fitted heel and comfortable break-in period make it a solid choice for climbers seeking a high-performance shoe that delivers both stability and precision on challenging outdoor routes.
Pros
Cons
Evolv Shaman
Evolv Shaman is a high-performance climbing shoe designed for aggressive, steep, overhanging routes. While its unique features, such as the Love Bump and Knuckle Box, offer advantages for some climbers, they may not be suitable for everyone.
The Shaman's softer rubber and the blunter toe may limit its edging ability and sensitivity compared to other high-end models. Ultimately, the ideal climbing shoe depends on personal preference and the specific climbing challenges you face.
