As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.
I thought a post around La Sportiva Genius vs Solution would be helpful for most of you as they're both high-performance climbing shoes.
Because they constantly are compared with each other among high-end climbing shoes.
Overview
Let's take a brief look at them before we dig any deeper.
If you're a newbie, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace or La Sportiva Tarantulace and Tarantula posts.
But, if you're at least an intermediate, please read on.
In short, unless you mostly prefer to climb steep terrains and/or overhanging (roof) areas almost all the time, I'd recommend the Genius. Otherwise, I'd recommend the Solution. On the other hand, the Genius offers you a very unique climbing experience because of the No-Edge concept.
As you see, they simply have different functions.
- What I'll recommend is up to your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
- If your answer is bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, sandstone rock, or routes that need a lot of smearing, go with the Genius.
- If you're doing mostly slab climbing, technical face, overhanging routes, or the edge routes, go with the Solution.
- Quick differences:
- Solution is generally is for a medium foot, Genius is for wide foot according to La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Quick Comparison Graph.
- Genius is more comfortable than Solution.
- Solution has a velcro closure system whereas Genius has a laced-up.
- Solution offers better toe-hooks than Genius.
- Genius is more comfortable than Solution.
- Solution offers better edging performance than Genius.
- Genius is much better at smearing than Solution.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.
Let's dive into it.
Rubber
As you are well aware, rubber is a critical part of climbing shoes. While choosing a climbing shoe, one of the first things you might want to look at is rubber.
Because the rubber of the climbing shoes determines the quality. Rubber tells a lot of things about shoes. Life of the shoe, the durability of the shoe, etc.
Although the rubber compound of these shoes is identical at Vibram XS Grip 2, the other equally important rubber parameter, the rubber thickness they have, is different.
The Solution comes with 4 mm sole whereas the Genius comes with 3 mm sole. Also, they both have a 1.1 mm LaspoFlex midsole with P3.
The main difference, as you see above, between these shoes is rubber thicknesses. This difference is a game-changer. The first thing that comes into my mind is, when I see the difference in their thickness, the Genius is more sensitive than the Solution but the Solution is more durable than the Genius.
Technology
The other thing that determines the quality of climbing shoes is the technology the shoe has.
Both shoes have the Permanent Power Platform which is called P3.
P3 is the technology that maintains the shape of climbing shoes after using many sessions, and also ensuring support to the shoe.
Another technology only one of these shoes has is the No-Edge concept.
La Sportiva Genius comes with the No-Edge concept which gives an extra sensitivity to Genius.
If you never climb with the No-Edge concept, it's getting time to get used to it. But, once you understand the concept of No-Edge, climbing will be more creative.
No-Edge concept force you to relearn your footwork and you'll start to trust your foot more than ever.
The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.
Maintaining the downturned shape of the shoe gives the durability to the shoes, also the other advantage of the P3 technology offers more supportive climbing shoes.
The No-Edge technology eliminates the traditional "edges" of the sole, which allows the foot to come in closer contact with the rock surface, thus enhancing foot sensitivity and allowing optimum contact on the hold. You can check the video below that made by La Sportiva.
Durability
The durability is a must feature while we're talking about the quality of climbing shoes.
The primary part of the climbing shoe that affect durability is the rubber.
The rubber compound and thicknesses of the climbing shoes directly change the durability of the shoe.
As I mentioned in the section of Rubber, they both are equipped with the same rubber compound which is Vibram XS Grip 2.
But the thickness of these shoes is different. The Genius is 3 mm whereas The Solution is 4 mm.
I can easily say that La Sportiva Solution is more durable than the Genius with the information as I mentioned above.
If we look at the rubber compound both shoes have, Vibram XS Grip 2 delivers outstanding precision of support, shape stability, and also offers the superior grip characteristic with solid durability but not like Vibram XS Edge.
The other thing about the durability of these shoes I want to talk about what closure system they have.
Okay, what we know is the Genius comes with the laced closure system whereas the Solution comes with the velcro. The closure system doesn't only affect the adjustable fit of climbing shoes, it also affects the durability of shoes.
So, the laced closure system the Genius have offers more durable climbing shoes than the Solution with velcro (Fast Lacing System).
Lining
The lining affects the amount of stretching the climbing shoes will. Also, it gives a breathability to the shoes.
La Sportiva Solution is equipped with partially lined leather which means that the Solution is only lined toe box and arch area whereas the Genius is equipped with unlined leather.
Unlined leather offers better breathability than lined leather but much more stretching.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Solution
- Weight: 8.89 oz (258g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather/ Lorica®
- Lining: HF (toe-box and arch area only)
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (forefoot only) with P3®
- Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
La Sportiva Solution is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (medium volume) climbing shoe which is designed for high-performance. Having a durable closure system and additional rubber on the toe box gives a great fit and makes us do edging easily.
Pros
Cons
Genius
- Weight: 7.76 oz (220g)
- Last: PD 85
- Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Suede leather / Microfiber
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 3 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
La Sportiva Genius is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry ( wide foot) climbing shoe is designed for high-performance. With the No-Edge concept, Genius offers you to relearn your footwork and trust your foot.