Scarpa Helix comes with the lace
As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.
I thought that a post devoted specifically to Helix vs Origin would be helpful for most of you.
The Scarpa Origin and the Scarpa Helix are designed for beginner climbers.
It's really a game-changer to choose the right beginner climbing shoes if you're a newbie and you want to improve your footwork and other technics.
Overview
If you're at least intermediate, or more I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my Scarpa Drago vs Furia S and La Sportiva Testarossa vs Solution posts.
Shortly, if you're a complete newbie and you have no idea about climbing, I'd recommend you go with the Origin. Because you can use these climbing shoes harshly and it's really important to learn footwork and technique in the beginning. But, if you're already doing for a while and improving yourself, then go with the Helix.
- I'd recommend basing your decision primarily on your answer to the following questions:
- Are you a beginner at climbing?
- If your answer is yes, don't hesitate to try both shoes. But, my recommendation is obvious as I mentioned above.
- What if you're already doing climbing for a while?
- Then it changes. I'd recommend definitely to you guys go with Scarpa Helix. Even if you're more than an intermediate climber, the Helix will help you very well when you climb multi-pitch.
- Are you a beginner at climbing?
- Quick differences:
- The Helix has a lace closure system whereas the Origin has a velcro closure system.
- The Helix is more sensitive than the Origin.
- The Origin has thicker rubber than the Helix has.
- Their last is different, the Helix is board-lasted whereas the Origin is slip-lasted.
- Best uses:
- The Helix: Sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing.
- The Origin: Indoor climbing, multi-pitch climbing.
- Quick note:
- According to Scarpa's Family Tree, they both are in the same category.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa's own comparison chart.
Differences
Climbing sessions with my Scarpa Helix
As I always say, the rubber that climbing shoes have is an essential parameter.
Let's talk about firstly their rubber compound and thicknesses.
The type of rubber they use is different. The Helix has Vibram XS Edge whereas the Origin has Scarpa's Vision.
Also, the other important rubber parameter, the rubber thicknesses of these shoes are different. The Helix comes with 3.5 mm thickness whereas the Origin comes with 5 mm.
Now, we can compare them with this information.
In my humble experience, I tried so many climbing shoes with a different rubber compound.
So, one of my favorite compounds is Vibram XS Edge. If you have this, you can easily do edging. The Vibram XS Edge is developed to provide maximum support edging and gives durability.
Even if the Vibram XS Edge offers us the ability to edging, their grip is not cheap (if you don't compare Vibram XS Grip).
But, if we compare Vibram XS Edge and Scarpa's Vision, the best one is definitely Vibram XS Edge.
Durable like rock, the Origin
On the other hand, the Scarpa's Vision isn't an assertive rubber compound. Yes, it's solid. It provides a balance of performance and durability, but not like the Vibram XS Edge.
Both rubber compounds are durable. If you ask, hey which one is more durable and provide me to learn footwork and climbing technic without hesitation to wear out to climbing shoes in the early stage of my climbing adventure?
The answer is the Scarpa Origin with 5 mm Scarpa's Vision rubber. Because not just only the rubber compound determines the durability of climbing shoes but also the rubber thicknesses determine.
What is the meaning of climbing shoes last?
A last is a foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last give shoes their volume, toe dimensions, heel, instep height, and also width.
Most rock climbing shoes come with slip-lasted whereas some of them are board-lasted.
So, the Origin is slip-lasted but the Helix is board-lasted. What's the difference between them?
Slip-lasted: Generally, the climbing shoes which are slip-lasted are more likely sensitive and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They get their stiffness from the midsole.
Board-lasted: The climbing shoes with board-lasted tend to be obviously stiffer than slip-lasted due to the above information :). More stiffness means lack of sensitivity, but providing durability and comfort.
Scarpa Origin (Left) vs Scarpa Helix (Right)
As clearly can be seen in the picture on the left, the other difference between these shoes is their closure system.
The Scarpa Helix comes with a lace closure system whereas the Scarpa Origin comes with a velcro (strap) closure system.
What are the pros & cons of these systems?
- The velcro closure system provides you to do easily on and off while climbing.
- The lace closure system gives you to do adjustability on fit. You can adjust whatever fit you want.
The other beginner climbing shoe that I tried before the Scarpa Origin and Helix was the La Sportiva Finale.
So, I wear 43 (Euro size) on my street shoes, but I downsized 1.5 sizes from my street size for La Sportiva Finale, and it fits.
According to Scarpa, both shoes are designed for medium volume. Therefore I decided to go with the same size as my Finale's. And, it fits great.
So, I'd recommend you guys down at least a full size from your street shoes.
Trying to break-in my Scarpa Helix
The last difference I want to talk about their technologies.
As I've already mentioned about some of their technologies, such as rubber compound.
But, I didn't mention the one which the Origin has whereas the Helix hasn't is PAF.
What is the PAF?
- The PAF stands for Pressure Absorbing Fit.
- It's about the heel system, so active randing system.
- The heel system with the PAF helps both spread the force of the heel tension and increase the fit of the heel.
You might want to check assemblies of the Helix and the Origin, if you wonder how it affects heel and Scarpa's assembly upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4).
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Origin
- Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
- Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
- Last: FFX - Flat, Slightly Asymmetric
- Symmetry: Slightly Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm 3/4 length
- Sole Rubber: 5 mm Scarpa Vision®
Scarpa Origin is designed for those looking comfortable and durable. The Origin provides easy to get on and off. It has a flat and neutral shape and also a low-angled toe box which makes it perfect for all-day use.
Pros
Cons
Helix
- Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
- Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
- Last: FF - Flat Profile, Slightly Asymmetric
- Symmetry: Slightly Asymmetric
- Closure: Lace
- Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm Full Length
- Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge
Scarpa Helix is designed to provide comfort, durability, and adjustable fit with a lace closure system. It has also a flat and neutral shape and also has the Vibram XS Edge rubber compound which gives you to doing better edging capacity.
