The Instinct VS has a lot rubber on the top of the toes which gives you better toe-hooking capacity
As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now (see full post list at the bottom).
I thought that a post devoted specifically to Instinct VS vs Boostic would be helpful for most of you.
Overview
Before you read ANYTHING, you might want to check Scarpa's Family Tree and Scarpa's Climbing Collection.
Also, if you're a newbie, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my Scarpa Helix vs Origin or Scarpa Force V vs Origin posts.
In short, if you mostly prefer to go indoor climbing, I'd recommend you go with the Instinct VS, but if you're mostly doing sport climbing, I'd definitely recommend you go with the Boostic.
- Boostic is more durable and stiffer.
- Instinct VS is more sensitive.
- Sizing & Fit:
- The Boostic has a medium volume with a classic shaped toe (Egyptian) while the Instinct VS has a higher volume with a center-shaped shoe toe (Greek).
- So, there are slight differences in the fit of these shoes. My first observation is that the Boostic is a bit narrower and taller while the Instinct VS has a lower profile toe with a slightly wider toe box.
- I feel that the Boostic is a bit softer over the top of the toes, and because of this it conforms to the shape of my foot quicker than the VS. But, as having a wide foot, the Instinct is a better option for me.
- Breaking in a period of these shoes is affected by their rubber on the top. The Instinct VS has a lot more rubber on the top of the toes, so it has a longer break-in period than the Boostic.
- Differences:
- The Boostic comes with 4 mm thicknesses whereas the Instinct VS comes with 3.5 mm thicknesses.
- The Boostic is more aggressive than the Instinct VS.
- Similarities:
- They both are equipped with the Vibram XS Edge.
- They also come with a velcro closure system.
- They have a great capacity for bouldering.
Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Scarpa's Own Chart Size.
Let's dive into it.
Differences
The first important difference between these shoes is their rubber thicknesses.
The Instinct VS is equipped with 3.5 mm whereas the Boostic is equipped with 4 mm.
So, how will affect this gap to climbing performance;
- There's definitely more feel in the VS while the Boostic feels stiffer.
- Also, the Boostic is more durable because of this reason.
The other difference is their last and symmetry;
- The Boostic is a more asymmetric and aggressive shoe than the Instinct VS which gives you more capacity at overhang routes, and steep problems.
The Boostic (Left) vs The Instinct VS (Right)
As you can see from the picture, the Instinct VS has a lot more rubber on the top of the toes.
What we get from here is the Instinct VS is better at toe-hooking than the Boostic.
Both systems are about active randing.
What's the Bi-Tension?
Shortly, the Bi-Tension system maintains a tension between the tip and the heel for better transmission of the supports.
More specifically, a reverse slingshot rand that's anchored under the critical toe area and connects directly to the heel rand, only there's nothing basic about it.
You might want to check this if you wonder about how Scarpa assembles upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4) for the Instinct VS.
How about the V-Tension?
This system enhances toe-pulling power by supporting the arch and forefoot area. This tensioned rubber wrap is paired with a full sole unit and so does not need rear bands.
It maintains the optimum foot position for small footholds.
You might want to check this if you wonder about how Scarpa assembly upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4) for the Boostic.
Similarities
The Boostic comes with a 4 mm Vibram XS Edge which allows you to do the better edging
- They both are equipped with a velcro closure system which allows you easily get off and get on, so there are extra advantages for indoor climbing and short routes.
- They both come with Vibram XS Edge which allows you to focus your weight on the tiniest of holds, and it is developed for maximum support.
- They both have a reliable heel.
- They both are designed for performance.
- They can be resoled.
- They both have a solid edge capacity than the most other climbing shoes.
- You can smear well both but not great.
- Their midsole is identical at 1.0 mm with Flexan.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Boostic
Scarpa Boostic is one of the most supportive climbing shoes in Scarpa's performance family. It provides edging capabilities for technical routes. Its construction allows you remain stable on small holds and different frontpoint-style climbing.
Pros
Cons
Instinct VS
- Weight: 8.1 oz (230g)
- Upper: Microsuede & Leather
- Last: FV - Moderately Downturned, Moderately Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm
- Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge™ (forefoot), 2 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ (heel)
Scarpa Instinct VS is a great for edging and all arounder climbing shoe that comes with Vibram® XS Edge™ and Bi-Tension technology. Scarpa Instinct VS provides edging ability and durability. Also, the VS is suitable for climbing shoes to anyone looking for a versatile semi-aggressive to the aggressive shoe.
