As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now (see full post list at the bottom).
I thought that a post devoted specifically to Vapor V vs Arpia would be helpful for most of you.
Overview
If you're doing climbing for a while, and you want to go next level of climbing. These shoes will help you through that transition. And, I'm going to help you to choose which one is the better option for you guys.
But, if you're looking for more performance shoes you can check out my Scarpa Drago vs Furia S post, or if you're a beginner then you might want to check my Scarpa Origin vs Force V post.
In short, unless you're planning to climb sport climbing, steep climbing, and/or edging areas pretty much all the time, then I'd mostly recommend the Arpia. Because the Vapor V is designed for those looking for a performance with moderate climbing shoes.
- Sizing:
- The Vapor V has a lower volume last with a classic shaped shoe toe (Egyptian) while the Arpia has a medium volume last with a square-shaped toe (Roman). You might want to check Scarpa's Family Tree.
- I've decided to try these shoes in the store. By the way, I have wide feet with a square-shaped toe.
- The first thing that I noticed is the Arpia's toe box is wider than the Vapor V's.
- The other thing is the Vapor V is more asymmetric than the Arpia, and both are moderately downturned.
- So, while trying these shoes, I made my sizing choices based on the above.
- Therefore, I go with downsizing 1.5 full sizes from street shoes (43 euro sizes) for the Arpia, it fits snug. The Arpia's toe box is precise for my roman feet type. Also, I tried the Arpia with downsizing 1.5 full sizes from my street shoes. But it doesn't feel how I wanted, so I tried 1 size below, it feels a little tight but it's okay. I know, it'll stretch.
- Quick Differences:
- The Arpia is equipped with the Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber whereas the Vapor V is equipped with the Vibram XS Edge.
- They both come with a strap closure but the difference is that the Arpia comes with Z-strap while the Vapor V comes with the classical strap.
- The Vapor V is designed with Bi-Tension technology while the Arpia is designed with V-tension.
- Quick Similarities:
- Both are moderate climbing shoes for beginner to intermediate climbers.
- Both are slip-lasted climbing shoes with synthetic microsuede uppers.
Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Scarpa's Climbing Collection.
Let's dive into it.
Differences
The Arpia comes with Z-Strap
The rubber is pretty much the number one thing you should look for when getting a new shoe.
If you ask why then let me explain the importance of the rubber compound.
- It's the most important thing between your feet and the surface
- It determines the intended use and overall performance.
Although the rubber thicknesses of these shoes are identical at 3.5 mm's, the other equally important rubber parameter, the type of rubber compound they use, is different.
The Arpia is equipped with Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber whereas the Vapor V is equipped with Vibram XS Edge.
Let me compare these rubber compounds with the chart that I prepared for you guys.
What's the Vibram XS Edge?
- It's developed for maximum support.
- It allows you to focus your weight on the tiniest of holds.
- It keeps its shape through repeated stress, whether in hot or cold weather because of improved plastic deformation resistance.
How about the Vibram XS Grip 2?
- It's developed for pure friction.
- It delivers outstanding precision of support and shape stability.
- It gives superior grip characteristics.
Differences between those?
- The Vibram XS Edge is more durable than the Vibram XS Grip 2.
- The Vibram XS Grip 2 provides a better grip than the XS Edge.
- The Vibram XS Edge has better edging ability than the XS Grip 2.
Scarpa Vapor V (Right) vs Scarpa Arpia (Left)
The other difference is, as you can see from the picture, their strap type.
The Arpia comes with a new "wave/Z" closure system. It provides to fit a range of foot shapes than the Vapor V, and you can able to get a more precise fit in the Arpia.
Also, you can see from the picture, the Vapor V has extra rubber above the toe box which means that the Vapor V has a better capacity of toe hooking than the Arpia.
Both systems are about the active randing.
What's the V-Tension?
This system enhances toe-pulling power by supporting the arch and forefoot area. This tensioned rubber wrap is paired with a full sole unit and so does not need rear bands.
It maintains the optimum foot position for small footholds.
You might want to check this if you wonder about how Scarpa assembles upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4) for the Arpia.
What's the Bi-Tension?
Shortly, the Bi-Tension system maintains a tension between the tip and the heel for better transmission of the supports.
More specifically, a reverse slingshot rand that's anchored under the critical toe area and connects directly to the heel rand, only there's nothing basic about it.
Also, you might want to check this, if you wonder about the Vapor V's assembly with the same construction but different active randing because of the Bi-Tension.
Similarities
There are some remarkable similarity between these shoes which are;
- They both come with a velcro closure system which allows you easily get off and get on.
- They both are moderate climbing shoes.
- Their thicknesses are identical at 3.5 mm's.
The other similarities are:
- They can be resoled.
- They both have synthetic uppers.
- Their lasts are slip-lasted.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Arpia
- Weight: 6.7 oz (190 g)
- Upper: Microsuede with soft-touch backing
- Last: FK - Slightly Downturned, Slightly Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Flexan Dynamix 1.4 mm
- Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2
Scarpa Arpia is designed for those looking to transition from a beginner to an intermediate level. The Arpia is simple and sensitive, and also provides a superior grip with the Vibram XS Grip 2.
Pros
Cons
Vapor V
- Weight: 8.5 oz (240 g)
- Upper: Microsuede & Leather
- Last: FR - Moderately Downturned, Moderately Asymmetric
- Closure: Strap
- Midsole: Flexan Dynamix 1.4 mm
- Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge
Scarpa Vapor V is versatile and precise that combines a comfortable fit. The Vapor V offers to edge with a slightly downturned shape, medium to low angled toe box results in excellent precision.
