La Sportiva TC Pro is designed by Tommy Caldwell
As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.
I thought that a post dedicated especially to La Sportiva Mythos vs TC Pro would be helpful for most of you.
Overview
Even if you've not been doing climbing for a long time, but you've already understood the basic techniques of climbing, you can use these two shoes to improve your advanced techniques.
They're both comfortable shoes, although both serve different types of climbing. BUT, many more advanced climbers use the La Sportiva TC Pro, because of its features and the fact that it was developed and designed by La Sportiva in collaboration with Tommy Caldwell specifically for all-day Yosemite big wall and crack climbing.
Of course, Tommy Caldwell didn't design just for money, look at him while he's climbing the Dawn Wall in TC Pros.
In short, I'll be honest, the TC Pro is much better than the Mythos. If you're planning to climb especially trad climbing and aggressive crack climbing, I'd definitely recommend La Sportiva TC Pro. But, if you say, "Nah, I'll be doing easier climbs for a while", then go for La Sportiva Mythos.
- I'd recommend basing your decision primarily on your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
- If your answer is crack climbing, big wall climbing, long routes, or multi-pitch go with TC Pro.
- If you're doing mostly sport climbing, gym climbing, short routes than go with Mythos.
- Quick differences:
- TC Pro is more aggressive than Mythos.
- TC Pro is a more suitable climbing shoe than Mythos for advanced climbers.
- As I said, Mythos is more comfortable climbing shoes than TC Pro.
- Mythos is better at smearing than TC Pro because of round and natural shape.
- Best uses:
- Both shoes are comfortable and suitable for all-day climbing.
- TC Pro is better at slab climbing, routes that need a lot of edging and jamming.
- TC Pro is more performance-minded.
- Mythos is a suitable shoe for gym climbing, all-day comfort.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.
Let's dive into it.
Rubber
La Sportiva Mythos is really comfortable climbing shoe
As I always say in my previous post, one of the most essential features we should pay attention to when buying climbing shoes is the rubber compound and rubber thickness of the shoe.
These two shoes have the same rubber compound and the same thickness of rubber.
So what are these;
- Compound: Vibram XS Edge
- Thickness: 4 mm
Vibram XS Edge is not only one of the most durable compound of the La Sportiva's compound, but also one of the most durable rubber compound of other climbing shoe brands. Also, if you're talking about Vibram XS Edge, you can feel comfortable about edging and durability.
4 mm thickness provides durability but takes sensitivity from us.
The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.
TC Pro and Mythos are almost the same fit. You might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Quick Comparison Graph.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers on our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Mythos
- Weight: 8.74 oz (284 g)
- Last: RN 25
- Fit: Tech with medium-low asymmetry
- Upper: Leather
- Lining: Unlined (Dry-Best® in tongue only)
- Midsole: 1.1 mm full-length LaspoFlex
- Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™
La Sportiva Mythos is neutral with low asymmetry and lace-up closure system climbing shoes. They are designed for all-day comfort, great at smears & cracks. The soft unlined leather upper has excellent breathability and cause to stretch up to a full size.
Pros
Cons
TC Pro
- Weight: 8.71 oz (247 g)
- Last: PD 55
- Fit: Tech with medium-high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Vibram® rubber rands
- Lining: Unlined (underfoot) / Sentex / PU foam / AirMesh (tongue)
- Midsole: P3® with 1.1mm LaspoFlex
- Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™
La Sportiva TC Pro is designed to provide better edging, crack climbing. They're an absolute mid-height edging machine. Also, La Sportiva TC Pro maintains its downturned shape with P3 tech, and it gives durability. By the way, Don't forget the designer of this shoe which is Tommy Caldwell. He's one of the most special climbers in the world.
