La Sportiva Solution offers sensitivity
As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.
I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Solution vs Otaki would be helpful for most of you.
Because they're really popular and high-performance shoes mainly appeal to at least intermediate climbers.
Overview
If you're a beginner, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace and La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.
If, on the other hand, you're at least intermediate, then read on.
In short, if you're planning to climb steep terrains, overhanging routes, I'd recommend the Solution. Because the Solution is designed for these types of routes and performance-focused climbing shoes. But, you're mostly doing sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes, then go with the Otaki.
- Solution offers better sensitivity and performance.
- Otaki is much more versatile, offers more edging capability, and is also a bit more durable.
As you see, Solution is more for advanced climbers.
- I'd recommend basing your decision primarily on your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
- If your answer is hard bouldering and overhanging, go with Solution.
- If you're doing multi-pitch and sport climbing, go with Otaki.
- Quick differences:
- Otaki is more durable than Solution because of having a more rigid rubber.
- Owing to its overall anatomy, the Solution is a bit more aggressive through the arch which is perfect for overhanging routes.
- Both shoes have the velcro closure system, but the Otaki has two opposing velcro-enclosure whereas the Solution has a one-velcro enclosure system with the Fast Lacing System tech.
- Best uses:
- Otaki is more all-around climbing shoes than the Solution and is also good at edging.
- Solution is more suitable for competitive uses.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.
Let's dive into it.
Rubber
La Sportiva Otaki offers edging capability
I always say that the rubber is the number one thing you should look for when getting a new shoe.
Because, the rubber is the flat between your foot and surface, and also determine the almost every quality of shoes - especially overall performance and durability.
Although the rubber thickness of these shoes is identical at 4 mm's, the other important rubber parameter, the type of rubber they use, is different.
The Otaki is equipped with Vibram XS Edge rubber compound whereas the Solution is equipped with Vibram XS Grip2.
The main difference between these rubber technologies is that XS Edge (belongs to Otaki) is a more durable and edging capability that XS Grip2 (belongs to Solution). The Vibram XS Grip2 offers more sensitivity, which means you can easily feel features more effectively underneath your toes.
The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.
The Vibram XS Edge, on the other hand, is definitely better for edging, as the name implies. It makes focusing your weight on the smallest of holds much easier compared to XS Grip2.
One of the other things that come with the Vibram XS Edge, is durability. Because of the Vibram XS Edge, the Otaki is more durable than the Solution. But, it doesn't mean that the Solution isn't durable. The Vibram XS Grip2 also offers durable but not like the Vibram XS Edge.
Volume
Both shoes are for medium volume, but if you look at the La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Quick Comparison Graph, you can see that the Solution is a bit for narrow volume than the Otaki
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers on our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Solution
- Weight: 8.89 oz (258 g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather/ Lorica®
- Lining: HF (toe-box and arch area only)
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (forefoot only)
- Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
The La Sportiva Solution is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (medium volume) climbing shoes which are designed for high-performance. Having a durable closure system and additional rubber on the toe box gives a great fit and makes us do edging easily.
Pros
Cons
Otaki
- Weight: 7.7 oz (218g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Tech w/high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather/Microfiber
- Lining: Pacific (in front)
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™
La Sportiva Otaki is an aggressive climbing shoe that comes with P3 and S-Heel technology. The Otaki offers a supportive heel-hook and closure system. La Sportiva Otaki provides a high-level performance across various rock climbing style. The Otaki is also drawing attention to edging ability.
