La Sportiva Skwama excels smearing and hooking
As some of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.
Having owned both, I thought that it would be a good idea to publish a post around La Sportiva Futura vs Solution, so here you go.
Overview
Firstly, if you're a beginner, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace or La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.
But, if you're at least an intermediate, then read on.
Shortly, the Futura excels equally on smeary climbing and steep overhangs like the Skwama. But, the Futura features (La Sportiva's No-edge technology), gives the Futura more edging capability. So, if you're planning to climb routes that a lot of edging, then I'd mostly recommend the Futura.
- I'd recommend basing your decision primarily on your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
- If your answer is overhanging, routes that need toe and heel hooking, go with the Skwama.
- If you're doing gym climbing, edging areas, bouldering, go with the Futura.
- Quick differences:
- The Futura is softer and flexible than the Skwama.
- The Skwama's toe box is a lit bit wider than the Futura.
- The Skwama is stiffer than the Futura whereas the Futura's fit is better than the Skwama.
- The Skwama's grip is better than the Futura.
- The Skwama is more comfortable than the Futura.
- The Skwama strecth a bit more than the Futura.
- Sizing:
- As I said, having owned both, I got the Futura in the same size as my Skwama. My Skwama fit slightly larger than my Futura. My recommendation is to go 1/2 size down for the Skwama.
- Best uses:
- Both shoes are good at smearing, but the Skwama is better for toe-hooking and heel-hooking. And for edging, definitely go with the Futura.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.
Let's dive into it.
Rubber
La Sportiva Skwama has larger surface area above the toe box
The rubber compound and the rubber thicknesses are pretty much the number one thing you should look for when getting a new shoe.
Okay, let's look at these special's features.
Although the rubber compound of these shoes is identical, they're equipped with Vibram XS Grip 2, the other equally important rubber parameter, the rubber thicknesses, is different.
La Sportiva Skwama has 4 mm thicknesses whereas La Sportiva Futura has 3 mm thicknesses.
The gap between the thicknesses of these shoes gives the Futura more sensitivity and softness. Also, because of the gap, the Skwama is more durable than the Futura.
The other thing, as you can see below picture, is Skwama's extra rubber on the top of the toe box which allows you to do better toe-hooking.
Technology
La Sportiva Futura is more sensitive with the No-Edge concept
Years by years, the technology that climbing shoes have been developing quickly.
La Sportiva always comes up with new technology for a better climbing shoe.
One of those is No-Edge Technology which is La Sportiva Futura's feature.
With the No-Edge concept, you can't use your outside or inside edges. This concept force you to relearn your footwork to accommodate.
Once you get used to No-Edge Tech, you'll be surprised how you feel more confident and quicker climbing.
The No-Edge technology eliminates the traditional "edges" of the sole, which allows the foot to come in closer contact with the rock surface, thus enhancing foot sensitivity and allowing optimum contact on the hold. You can check the video below that made by La Sportiva.
The other technology that both shoes are equipped with is the Permanent Power Platform which is called P3.
The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.
The technology that the Skwama has but the Futura doesn't have is S-Heel Technology.
This allows perfect stability in torsion enhancing performance and flexibility for heel hooks. The S-Heel construction provides better heel-hooking and perfect heel cup fit. Also, this feature gives better heel-hooking maneuverability to the Skwama.
As you see, the technology that climbing shoes affect the performance of climbing shoes a lot of ways. But, as I always say, there are no perfect shoes for every type of area.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers on our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Futura
- Weight: 8.00 oz (225 g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Synthetic Leather
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (toe only) with P3®
- Sole: 3 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
La Sportiva Futura is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (narrow volume) climbing shoe which is designed for high-performance. Having the no-edge concept force you to climb more precisely. You have to relearn your footwork with La Sportiva Futura.
Pros
Cons
Skwama
- Weight: 7.50 oz (210 g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Microfiber / Rubber toe cap
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 0.8 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
La Sportiva Skwama is also aggressively downturned with high asymmetry climbing shoes for at least intermediate climbers. The Skwama really excels at toe and heel hooking. Having a split-sole design provides to reduce deformation when edging.
