As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.
I thought that a post devoted specifically to Scarpa Helix vs La Sportiva Finale would be helpful for most of you.
Scarpa and La Sportiva have long been compared to each other. Especially, their climbing shoes.
So, they're both neutral climbing shoes and generally are preferred by beginner climbers.
Overview
If you're looking for a performance, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and check out my La Sportiva Solution vs Testarossa and Scarpa Furia S vs Drago posts.
In short, if you're a complete newbie, and you have no idea about climbing but looking for a beginner shoe that has solid durability so you can use it without worrying about wearing out, then go with the Finale. But, you've already spent some time climbing, and you want more sensitive beginner shoes, then go with the Helix.
- Before I recommend one of these shoes, let's clear things up.
- First, will it be your first climbing shoe?
- If the answer is yes, go with La Sportiva Finale.
- Secondly, if you're already doing climbing for a while;
- Then, go with Scarpa Helix to feel the rock and performance.
- Last but not least, if you're looking for a performance to do multi-pitch climbing, crack climbing, and trad climbing, go with La Sportiva Finale.
- First, will it be your first climbing shoe?
- Quick differences:
- The Finale is equipped with 5 mm rubber thicknesses whereas the Helix is equipped with 3.5 mm.
- Quick similarities:
- Both come with the Vibram XS Edge.
- They have a lace-up closure system.
- They're designed for all-day comfort.
- Best uses:
- La Sportiva Finale: All-around, crack climbing, multi-pitch climbing, indoor climbing.
- Scarpa Helix: All-around, sport climbing, indoor climbing.
Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa's Family Tree or La Sportiva Comparison Chart.
Differences
Firstly, they're from different brands. Therefore, their design and look are obviously different from each other.
But, most importantly, their rubber thicknesses are different from each other.
The Finale is equipped with a 5 mm Vibram XS Edge whereas the Helix is equipped with a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Edge.
They both take what Vibram XS Edge features. But, the gap between thicknesses (not only, but most important) determine which one is more durable.
Ten points for La Sportiva Finale which is thicker than Scarpa Helix.
Another thing that determines durability is the upper material. The Finale is equipped with leather while the Helix is equipped with suede leather.
What's the difference between suede leather and leather?
- Leather is buttery and smooth.
- Suede is matted and matty.
- Leather is more durable because it's made from the exterior of the animal which is naturally the protective layer of the animals' skin.
Another ten points for La Sportiva Finale...
Let's continue around durability which is crucial.
The last thing that I'll talk about below is their lasts.
What is the meaning of climbing shoes last?
A last is a foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last give shoes their volume, toe dimensions, heel, instep height, and also width.
Most rock climbing shoes come with slip-lasted whereas some of them are board-lasted.
So, the Finale is slip-lasted but the Helix is board-lasted. What's the difference between them?
Slip-lasted: Generally, the climbing shoes which are slip-lasted are more likely sensitive and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They get their stiffness from the midsole.
Board-lasted: The climbing shoes with board-lasted tend to be obviously stiffer than slip-lasted due to the above information :). More stiffness means lack of sensitivity, but providing durability and comfort.
Then, ten points for the Helix. Okay, let me sum up the final results.
The Finale takes 20 points while the Helix takes 10 points. The winner of durability is the Finale.
The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.
Shortly, the active randing system strives to achieve maximum sensitivity for your feet and yet still allow you good edging power.
You might want to check this out if you wonder how Scarpa Helix's assembly is created with upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4).
Similarities
Scarpa Helix (Left) vs La Sportiva Finale (Right)
There're two remarkable similarities between these shoes.
The first one is their closure system, as you can see in the right picture.
Both have a lace-up closure system which:
- Allows you to adjust the fit of climbing shoes whatever way you want to.
The other similarity is their rubber compound. They're both equipped with the Vibram XS Edge which is:
- Developed to provide maximum support edging and gives durability.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Helix
- Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
- Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
- Last: FF - Flat Profile, Slightly Asymmetric
- Closure: Lace
- Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm Full Length
- Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge
Scarpa Helix is designed to provide comfort, durability, and adjustable fit with a lace closure system. It has also a flat and neutral shape and also has the Vibram XS Edge rubber compound which gives you to doing better edging capacity.
Pros
Cons
Finale
- Weight: 8.00 oz (226 g)
- Last: PN 45
- Construction: Slip Lasted
- Upper: Leather / Microfiber
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 1.1 mm Laspoflex with P3®
- Sole: 5 mm Vibram® XS Edge
The Finale is one of the most traditional climbing shoes. With unlined leather upper for a soft comfortable fit, the Finale shines like a diamond for beginners.
Also, the Finale comes with a 5 mm Vibram XS Edge with tensioned heel rand and powerhinge for high-end edging performance. The Finale's versatility is the most impressive feature of its. And, the technology that the Finale has is the Permanent Power Platform (the P3).
