Evolv Phantom is on duty!
As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.
Nowadays, I've been trying Evolv's Evo Lab-Line and posting about my experiences with these Evolv's climbing shoes.
Today, I thought that a post devoted specifically to Phantom vs Zenist would be helpful for most of you.
Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my La Sportiva Tarantula vs Scarpa Origin and La Sportiva Finale vs Scarpa Helix posts if you're a newbie.
But, if you're climbing for a long time and looking for performance-based climbing shoes, then go on.
Overview
As a recreational bouldering and climbing enthusiast, I understand the importance of selecting the right climbing shoes for optimal performance and comfort.
In this comprehensive comparison, I will provide an in-depth analysis of two popular options, the Evolv Zenist, and Evolv Phantom, using climbers' feedback, product specifications, and my experiences with these shoes.
Let's explore the differences and similarities between these two models to help you make an informed decision.
Shortly, I'd recommend you to go with the Zenist if you generally prefer to go indoor climbing, terrains which need lots of smearing. Additionally, the Zenist can handle big volume holds. On the other hand, go with the Phantom if you're planning to go outdoor climbing because it is offering more stability and support on small holds due to its stiffness and aggressive nature.
- Similarities:
- Both shoes come with a 4.2mm TRAX ® SAS rubber compound.
- Both shoes have a velcro closure.
- Both shoes offer high performance.
- Both shoes also come with synthetic uppers.
- Both shoes are vegan-friendly.
- Differences:
- The Zenist comes with MX-R 1 mm half-length rubber midsole whereas the Phantom comes with MX-P 1.6 mm, AVT & TPS rubber midsole.
- I said they have velcro closure, BUT the Zenit comes with a single strap whereas the Phantom comes with Compression Closure System (CSS) which is a 6-point single-pull closure for a superb fit.
- Also, the Phantom comes with lots of different technologies comparing the Zenist. They are Dark Spine S, AVT Plastic Midsole, Molded VTR, and TPS. I'll talk about these details later.
- Usage:
- Evolv Zenist: Indoor climbing, smearing, the big volume holds.
- Evolv Phantom: Outdoor climbing, small holds, steep boulder problems.
Before talking about the details of these shoes, you might want to check the "Shoe Comparison Info Table" below which I've created according to information that I collected from Evolv. Before checking the comparison table, let me tell you how you evaluate;
- Camber (Downturned Shape): The camber of the shoe determines how aggressive or neutral a shoe will feel and what type of climbing of shoe is better for. A high-camber (5-stars) shoe will put your foot in a downward curled position better for overhanging climbs or putting more power on the toe. A flat (1-star) shoe will be more comfortable for longclimbs and smearing.
- Stiffness / Sensitive: Stiffness and sensitivity is determined by the type and thickness of the midsole and the softness and thickness of the rubber. A stiff shoe will support more weight on a smaller area with less "feel" when edging and a softer and more sensitive shoe will allow the climber to feel the rock beneath the feet. A stiff shoe would be a 5 stars whereas a sensitive shoe would be a 1 star.
- Downturned Toe: A downturned toe will put the big toe in a curled position to allow the climber to either climb steeper angles by pulling on the hold. A flat shoe (1-star) will keep your toes fairly flat while a downturned-toe high-performance shoe (5-stars) will pre-curl your big toe when put on.
- Width: Evolv classifies their shoes by wide, medium, and narrow forefoot fits. The narrow shoes will also have a lower overall volume in the forefoot and heel and the wider shoes will typically have a higher volume in the forefoot and instep. The narrow shoes would be a 3 stars whereas the wide shoes would be a 1 star.
Let's dive into it!
RUBBER
Evolv Zenist is looking gooood!
What I always say is rubber compound and rubber thickness are the most essential features when it comes to climbing shoes.
Both shoes come with a 4.2mm TRAX ® SAS rubber compound.
The TRAX® SAS is developed in partnership with an actual rubber scientist (a doctor of material science / chemical engineering that specializes in rubber) according to Evolv.
- Superior Friction: TRAX® SAS is known for its excellent friction properties, which allow climbers to maintain a secure grip on a wide variety of rock surfaces. This is crucial for performing precise foot placements and making dynamic movements while climbing.
- Durability: Despite its impressive performance characteristics, TRAX® SAS is also designed for durability. This rubber compound is made to withstand the wear and tear that comes with climbing, ensuring a longer lifespan for the climbing shoes.
- Performance: TRAX® SAS is meticulously engineered to adapt to the tiniest bumps and irregularities on rock surfaces, giving climbers the unparalleled grip and traction that Evolv shoes are renowned for.
The differences in stiffness and sensitivity of these shoes come with 2 things which are the midsole and the technology they have.
As I said, the Zenist comes with MX-R 1 mm half-length rubber midsole whereas the Phantom comes with MX-P 1.6 mm, AVT & TPS rubber midsole.
The gap between the thickness of the midsole affects the sensitivity and stiffness. Also, AVT & TPS rubber offer extra support to the Phantom.
- AVT Plastic Midsole: For sensitivity and support
- TPS Rubber Midsole: For downturned toe and arch structure
These two features work in parallel to eliminate dead space under your toes and create a comfortable and powerful sensation out of the box! Please visit the Evolv website to understand more about how these features work.
The other technology that I'd like to mention is Dark Spine which only the Phantom has. Dark Spine is a heel midsole that protects the Calcaneus bone while heel hooking and helps lock the heel into the shoe.
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that was made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Fit and Comfort
Evolv Phantom is rocking!
Let's talk about briefly Evolv Zenist Sizing and Evolv Phantom sizing.
According to my research and experience;
The fit and comfort of climbing shoes can significantly impact a climber's experience. Some climbers have reported that the Evolv Zenist's heel fit is not ideal, particularly for those with wide heels, as it may have dead space under the heel that can lead to slipping off features. In contrast, the Phantom's heel fit is often described as perfect and accommodating for different heel shapes.
However, it's important to note that the Zenist tends to run small, so you may need to size up to achieve a better fit. On the other hand, the Phantom is generally praised for its comfort and ease of breaking in, with no hotspots reported by climbers.
Performance
Evolv Zenist shows off!
When it comes to stiffness and softness, the Evolv Zenist is known for being a super soft shoe, providing excellent smearing capabilities, wrapping the toe into holds, and allowing for versatile foot movements. The Evolv Phantom, on the other hand, is a much stiffer shoe, offering more support on tiny holds and enabling greater power through the toe tips.
The Zenist's softness makes it an ideal choice for indoor climbing, particularly on big volumes and smeary surfaces. However, the Phantom's stiffness is better suited for outdoor climbing, providing a more stable and supportive experience on small holds.
In terms of heel and toe hooking performance, the Phantom is often considered superior to the Zenist when it comes to heel hooking due to its secure, technical, and grippy heel design. However, the Zenist's softer nature allows for a more secure toe-hooking experience, despite its smaller toe patch.
Conclusion
Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.
Evolv Phantom
- Closure: Straps
- Midsole: MX-P: 1.6mm, AVT & TPS RUBBER, Love Bump
- Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
- Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
- Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
- Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
- Weight: 9 oz per shoe (255 gr)
Evolv Phantom is a powerful and sensitive climbing shoe designed for outdoor climbing and steep boulder problems. Its stiff construction provides excellent support on small holds, while its aggressive profile ensures your foot is always in a power position.
The Phantom's well-fitted heel and comfortable break-in period make it a solid choice for climbers seeking a high-performance shoe that delivers both stability and precision on challenging outdoor routes.
Pros
Cons
Evolv Zenist
- Closure: Straps
- Midsole: MX-R:1.0mm half-length rubber midsole, Love Bump
- Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
- Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
- Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
- Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
- Weight: 9 oz per shoe (255 gr)
Evolv Zenist is a highly sensitive and soft climbing shoe, ideal for indoor climbing and modern smeary gym problems. Its exceptional smearing capabilities and flexibility allow for versatile foot movements and superior toe-hooking performance.
The Zenist is particularly suited for competition-style climbing and excels at handling big-volume holds, making it an excellent choice for climbers seeking a responsive and comfortable shoe for dynamic indoor bouldering sessions.
