Evolv Oracle vs Shaman

As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

I have tried lots of climbing shoe brands since this time such as La Sportiva, Scarpa, and Tenaya, and I've been thinking to try Evolv climbing shoes for a while.

I thought that a post devoted specifically to Evolv Shaman vs Oracle would be helpful for most of you since I've tried both shoes recently.

Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my Scarpa Helix vs La Sportiva Finale and La Sportiva Tarantula vs Scarpa Origin posts if you're a newbie.

But, if you're climbing for a while and looking for performance-based climbing shoes, then go on.

The one thing that I want to mention before we dive into some details, there are lots of models for Evolv Shaman such as Evolv Shaman Velcro, Lace, Pro, Pro Low, and Lace Low. These models are very similar, but they have small differences in their closure systems or volumes.

I'll compare Evolv Shaman vs Oracle in this post.

Shortly, both shoes are pretty good at bouldering on all types of rock, BUT they excel in some specific routes and styles. I'd recommend you to go with the Oracle if you mainly are focusing micro edging on overhang terrain or steep single-pitch routes, on the other hand, I'd say that go with the Shaman if you prefer to go multi-pitch technical routes or gym climbing.

• Evolv Oracle is stiffer.
• Evolv Shaman is a bit sensitive.

Also, I'd say that the Oracle has a lace closure system whereas the Shaman has a velcro closure system. These differences are affecting some abilities, such as easy on and off, adjustment of fit, and crack climbing.

Therefore, the Shaman offers you easy on and off. On the other hand, the Oracle offers you adjustment of fit and better performance at crack climbing comparing the Shaman.

Let's dive into the details!

Technology

I want to specifically talk about these shoe technologies. The Evolv comes with lots of technology to improve their shoes.

The first thing that I'd like to talk about is their rubber compound. Both shoes come with a 4.2mm TRAX® SAS.

I had some doubts about TRAX® SAS before I tried it because the climbing shoes that I've been using for a while generally have Vibram rubber compound. BUT, let's be honest with you guys, TRAX® SAS is rocking!

The TRAX® SAS is developed in partnership with an actual rubber scientist (a doctor of material science / chemical engineering that specializes in rubber) according to Evolv.

• Superior Friction: TRAX® SAS is known for its excellent friction properties, which allow climbers to maintain a secure grip on a wide variety of rock surfaces. This is crucial for performing precise foot placements and making dynamic movements while climbing.
• Durability: Despite its impressive performance characteristics, TRAX® SAS is also designed for durability. This rubber compound is made to withstand the wear and tear that comes with climbing, ensuring a longer lifespan for the climbing shoes.
• Performance: TRAX® SAS is meticulously engineered to adapt to the tiniest bumps and irregularities on rock surfaces, giving climbers the unparalleled grip and traction that Evolv shoes are renowned for.

Let's talk about other technologies that both shoes have which is their toe box!

• Knuckle Box: Makes room for your big toe knuckle to rest in a curled position without having to push fabric and rubber out of the way which causes hot spots in other shoes.
• Love Bump: Upon slipping your foot into the toe box of your shoes, the Love Bump will be there to support your toes as they curl into a crimped position. The design feature offers the necessary performance for sticking to even the tiniest edges while simultaneously providing toe support to minimize fatigue.

These two features work in parallel to eliminate dead space under your toes and create a comfortable and powerful sensation out of the box! Please visit the Evolv website to understand more about how these features work.

The other technology which both shoes come with is Molded VTR.

Basically Molded VTR is related to Evovl's climbing shoe rand. The VTR means VARIABLE THICKNESS RAND.

The VTR system puts thinner rand rubber in areas to reduce pressure points and hot spots around foot as well as thicker rubber for increased longevity in the high wear zones near the toe for durability and performance.

The final technology that I'd like to mention is FSS Heel Tensioner which only Oracle has.

Shortly, FSS Heel Tensioner is a free-floating cord bonded under the ankle and looped through a metal eyelet then back down under the rand to pull tension through the arch and lock the foot into the shoe.

Oh, I almost forget to mention Dark Spine for the Evolv Oracle which is a heel midsole that protects the Calcaneus bone while heel hooking and helps lock the heel into the shoe.

To sum up, Evolv's advanced technologies, including the Knuckle Box, Love Bump, TRAX SAS, FSS Heel Tensioner, and Molded VTR, showcase the brand's commitment to creating high-quality climbing shoes that cater to the diverse need of climbers at all skill levels.

By prioritizing comfort, durability, and performance, Evolv continues to raise the bar in climbing footwear from my point of view.

Evolv Shaman Sizing

Evolv Shaman is an excellent choice for climbers with normal to wider feet, as it offers a comfortable and true-to-size fit. While it is possible to size up or down for increased comfort or support, doing so may lead to unnecessary discomfort or compromise stability and safety. 

It is recommended to select the Shaman in your street shoe size for optimal performance or half a size up for a more casual fit. Keep in mind that the shoes will break in and potentially stretch up to half a size after a few climbing sessions.

Ultimately, finding the right balance between comfort, support, and performance is crucial to ensure a safe and enjoyable climbing experience

Evolv Oracle Sizing

Sizing the Evolv Oracle one full size up from my street shoe size offers a snug yet comfortable fit. The full lace system is a great feature, ensuring a secure cinch even during warm-up periods when the laces aren't fully tied.

Generally, Evolv shoes tend to run close to street shoe sizes or slightly smaller. Opting for your true size is likely to provide a performance-oriented fit, while choosing half a size up will yield a more relaxed feel.

Overall, it's important to strike the right balance between comfort and performance when selecting the ideal fit for your Evolv Oracle climbing shoes.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

Evolv Shaman

Evolv Shaman is a high-performance climbing shoe designed for aggressive, steep, overhanging routes. While its unique features, such as the Love Bump and Knuckle Box, offer advantages for some climbers, they may not be suitable for everyone.

The Shaman's softer rubber and the blunter toe may limit its edging ability and sensitivity compared to other high-end models. Ultimately, the ideal climbing shoe depends on personal preference and the specific climbing challenges you face.

Evolv Oracle

• Liner: Unlined
• Midsole: MX-P: 1.6 mm Half-Length, Love Bump, Dark Spine
• Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
• Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
• Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
• Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
• Weight: 9 oz per shoe (255 gr)

Evolv Oracle is a versatile and secure option for intermediate to advanced climbers, offering efficient performance on a variety of routes, such as bouldering, sport, and vertical walls.

While its limited rubber may not be optimal for toe-hooking, the shoe's stiff sole, aggressive shape, and snug lacing system ensure stability, power, and reliability across multiple climbing styles.

Its durability, comfort, and protective features make the Evolv Oracle a solid choice for diverse climbing challenges.