Image belongs to La Sportiva Solution
As most of you know, as a big fanboy and devoted first-hand customer; I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.
Recently I'm getting asked a lot about my best La Sportiva climbing shoes picks, so here you go.
Hope this guide helps you.
Before we get to it: I'd recommend you check out La Sportiva's own Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart as well.
Yes, buying new climbing shoes isn't an easy process. There're lots of different types of climbing shoes and choosing one of them might be a tough decision. I've been there.
Now... Here's a question you must ask yourself before anything:
- If your answer is sport climbing:
Then, go with La Sportiva Genius.
- If you're doing mostly trad and crack climbing:
The best trad climbing shoe that is La Sportiva Tc Pro.
- If you're looking for a shoe that you can do lots of types of climbing:
Then, I'd recommend La Sportiva Katana Lace which is the best all-around climbing shoe in La Sportiva's line.
- If you're a newbie and looking for a decent beginner climbing shoe:
Then go with, La Sportiva Tarantulace. The other option according to your budget that is La Sportiva Finale.
- If your answer is bouldering:
I'd definitely recommend La Sportiva Solution.
- If you say, is there any option for indoor climbing:
Of course, here you go... La Sportiva Miura.
- What if I just want a durable and comfortable shoe:
There's an option for you which is La Sportiva Mythos.
Now let's get to the bolts and nuts.
Best Sport Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Genius
La Sportiva Genius is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry climbing shoes is designed for high-performance.
Specifically, when it comes to sport climbing, La Sportiva Genius is the best sport climbing shoe in La Sportiva's line-up.
With the No-Edge concept, you can do both smearing and edging at the same time (smedge). Also, the No-Edge concept gives an extra sensitivity to the Genius.
La Sportiva Genius comes with Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber compound and 3 mm sole. It means that you can feel every piece of rock surface underneath your foot.
Also, the unlined leather that the Genius has offers breathability but much more stretching.
Sizing
First of all, according to La Sportiva's own Climbing Shoe Quick Comparison Graph, La Sportiva Genius is between medium and wide volume.
Secondly, the Genius fits like other shoes in La Sportiva's line-up. I'd recommend going down at least a full size from your street if you want to feel comfortable. But, if you're looking for more performance, you might want to go down another half size.
Specs
- Weight: 7.76 (220 g)
- Last: PD 85
- Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Suede leather / Microfiber
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 3 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
Pros
Cons
The No-Edge technology eliminates the traditional "edges" of the sole, which allows the foot to come in closer contact with the rock surface, thus enhancing foot sensitivity and allowing optimum contact on the hold. You can check the video below that made by La Sportiva.
Best Trad and Crack Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva TC Pro
La Sportiva TC Pro is designed to provide better edging, crack, and trad climbing performance. They're an absolute mid-height edging machine.
I must mention that many advanced climbers use the La Sportiva TC Pro, because of its features and the fact that is was developed and designed by La Sportiva in collaboration with Tommy Caldwell specifically for all-day Yosemite big wall and crack climbing. Look at him how smooth he is with the TC Pro.
When I say this beast can edge, I mean it. Because of the rubber compound, the TC Pro has which is Vibram XS Edge. This compound is designed for edging and comes with durability. But, the thickness of the compound, which is 4 mm, takes sensitivity from us.
What else... The technology the TC Pro has is the Permanent Power Platform, shortly P3. P3 is the technology that maintains the shape of climbing shoes after using many sessions and also ensuring support to the shoe.
Sizing
According to the La Sportiva Quick Comparison Chart, The TC Pro is for regular volume. My recommendation is that you can go down at least a half size from your street shoe.
Specs
- Weight: 8.71 oz (247 g)
- Last: PD 55
- Fit: Tech with medium-high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Vibram® rubber rands
- Lining: Unlined (underfoot) / Sentex / PU foam / AirMesh (tongue)
- Midsole: P3® with 1.1mm LaspoFlex
- Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™
Pros
Cons
The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.
Best All-Around Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Katana Lace
La Sportiva Katana Lace is a slight downturned, asymmetrical toe box and comes with PD 55 last. Having the Vibram XS Edge make it better at edging.
When I say this shoe can edge, it's not only the ability of what this shoe has. The Katana Lace has a capability almost at every terrain.
The Katana Lace is also good at smearing hooking. I can say its smearing is better than its hooking. Because when it comes to top-level performance while toe hooking and jamming into to pockets, the Katana Lace lacks it.
Otherwise, you can go slab climbing, vertical face climbing, and even crack climbing (thanks to Vibram XS Edge) with the Katana Lace.
I almost forget to mention about the Katana Lace's technology which is the P3. When the P3 combines with the aggressiveness of the Katana Lace and an asymmetrical toe box, this shoe also has the capability of doing bouldering or overhang faces.
Shortly, La Sportiva Katana Lace is the best option for all-around climbing shoes in La Sportiva's line-up which allows you to do edging, smearing, and slightly high perform with great comfort for multi-pitch climbing.
Sizing
My recommendation is that you can get your pair 0.5-1 size below your street shoes for a comfortable and if you want more performance, you might want to go down another half size.
Specs
- Weight: 8.71 (247 g)
- Last: PD 55
- Fit: Tech fit w/ medium asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Lorica®
- Lining: Pacific (forefoot and back)
- Midsole: 1.1 mm full-length LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Edge™
Pros
Cons
Best Beginner Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Tarantulace
I was doubtful about La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace when it comes to picking which one is the better option for a complete newbie. BUT, after using many sessions, I'm sure about the Tarantulace is a better option for a beginner.
I'd say that the Tarantulace is the best comfortable shoe for beginners even though it has a lace-up closure system.
When it comes to especially gym shoes, not everyone prefers a lace-up closure system because it needs a bit of effort to get on and off. BUT, you can adjust exactly precise fit which is what you understand when you are a newbie.
So, we know that the Tarantulace isn't a high-performance climbing shoe, but it doesn't mean that it's useless. You can easily smear and understand the basics of climbing technics with FriXion® RS rubber (very sticky) which the Tarantulace has.
Sizing
The comfort of this shoe... Geez, it's like barely less comfortable than my street shoes. I can wear all-day. I'd recommend that if you want a more precise fit and a little bit of a performance, you can get your pair 1-1.5 size below your street shoes. But, if you feel how comfy is the Tarantulace, you can get your pair 0.5-1 size below.
By the way, if you wonder about differences between the Tarantula (the cousin of the Tarantulace) and the Tarantulace, you might want to check La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace.
Sizing
- Weight: 9.30 oz (260 g)
- Last: RN 45
- Fit: Comfort with low asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Synthetic Leather
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 1.8 mm LaspoFlex
- Sole: 5 mm FriXion ® RS
Pros
Cons
The Other Best Beginner Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Finale
La Sportiva Finale is also one of the best beginner climbing shoes in the La Sportiva's line-up.
But, you might ask "why the other best?". After using many sessions the Finale and the Tarantulace, I decided that the Finale needs a bit of experience even as a beginner.
As I already mentioned above (the Tarantulace part), if you a complete newbie, go with the Tarantulace. But, if you're already doing climbing for a while as a beginner and want to improve your climbing technics then go with the Finale.
The Finale is one of the most traditional climbing shoes. With unlined leather upper for a soft comfortable fit, the Finale shines like a diamond for beginners.
Also, the Finale comes with 5 mm Vibram XS Edge with tensioned heel rand and powerhinge for high-end edging performance. The Finale's versatility is the most impressive feature of its. And, the technology that the Finale has is the Permanent Power Platform (the P3).
Sizing
The Finale is a comfortable climbing shoe for mid-volume and offers all-day comfort according to La Sportiva Quick Comparison Chart.
I'd recommend you can get your pair 1-1.5 sizes below your euro street size.
Specs
- Weight: 8.00 oz (226 g)
- Last: PN 45
- Fit: Tech with medium asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Microfiber
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 5 mm Vibram® XS Edge™
Pros
Cons
Best Bouldering Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Solution
La Sportiva Solution is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry climbing shoes which are designed for high-performance.
The reason why this shoe best bouldering climbing shoe in La Sportiva's line-up (in my opinion the Solution is the best of all for bouldering shoe that you can find) is;
The Solution has an adjustable and precise fit, solid rubber, aggressive, unique heel, and opportunity to give you a chance of sticking even the smallest footholds. Also, the downturned shape in combination with La Sportiva's stiff P3 platform makes for a powerful shoe.
I talked about the Skwama in this post, but if you wonder about the differences between La Sportiva Skwama vs Solution, you might want to check here.
Besides, this shoe has been around for a long time. A lot of climbers have seen pros wearing them in competition. You might want to check Most Used Climbing Shoes in IFSC 2019 Cup Finals.
Sizing
According to the La Sportiva Quick Comparison Chart, the Solution is for mid-volume and performance climbing shoe.
I'd recommend you can get your pair 1.5 sizes (European) below street size for a precise fit, and high performance.
Specs
- Weight: 8.89 (258 g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Lorica®
- Lining: HF (toe-box and arch area only)
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (forefoot only)
- Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
Pros
Cons
Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.
Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.
You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers on our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.
Best Intermediate Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Miura
Let's think about that you've been climbing for a while and you have knowledge of climbing, and you want to climb harder grades.
So, which climbing shoe that can help you to improve your skill and that shoe has been around for a decade, and it's already proven itself.
Yes, the Miura... La Sportiva Miura is a slightly aggressive medium to high performing and adequately comfortable climbing shoe for intermediate climbers. This beast can edges, hooks better than beginner climbing shoes.
In addition, you can also do a lot of different types of climbing with the Miura, such as bouldering, crack climbing, face climbing. Also, some pro climbers like Adam Ondra climbed La Dura Dura, and Alex Honnold did a free solo with the Miura.
Sizing
You can also check here La Sportiva Quick Comparison Chart, the Miura is for lower volume.
My recommendation is that you can get your pair 1-1.5 sizes below your street shoe size (in US Men's sizes), if you want a performance fit. BUT, if you prefer comfort, you might get your pair 0.5 size below your street shoe size.
Specs
- Weight: 8.43 oz (239 g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather
- Lining: Dentex
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (forefoot only)
- Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Edge™
Pros
Cons
Most Comfortable Climbing Shoe: La Sportiva Mythos
The La Sportiva Mythos is designed for all-day comfort with low asymmetry and a lace-up closure system in which you can easily adjust your fit.
The Mythos is a very classic climbing shoe in La Sportiva's line-up that has been on the market for years.
I'd say that this shoe is best suited for intermediate to moderate sport climbing, slab climbing, and multi-pitch climbing. Because the flat-soled and last with RN 25 (if you wonder what's RN and 25 mean you might want to check this below figure) becomes this shoe to very comfortable.
Also, the soft unlined leather upper has excellent breathability and cause to stretch up to a full size.
Sizing
As I said above that the Mythos will stretch a lot. The Mythos is for medium volume.
I'd recommend you can get your pair 1-2 sizes below your street shoe size (in US sizes).
Specs
- Weight: 8.74 oz (284 g)
- Last: RN 25
- Fit: Tech with medium-low asymmetry
- Upper: Leather
- Lining: Unlined (Dry-Best® in tongue only)
- Midsole: 1.1 mm full-length LaspoFlex
- Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™
Pros
Cons
Fit Asymmetry Figure
Reviews of the 3 Other La Sportiva Climbing Shoes We Tested
La Sportiva Skwama
One of my other favorite La Sportiva climbing shoes for bouldering is La Sportiva Skwama (first one is obviously La Sportiva Solution).
This shoe is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry and a top performer on overhanging routes and bouldering.
The Skwama is equipped with Vibram XS Grip 2 and 4 mm thicknesses which allows you to stick to the surface like a gum while you're comfy with your foot technique without worrying about durability.
The game-changer technologies this shoe has are the S-Heel and the P3. The P3 provides to maintain the shape of the downturn after using many sessions but lacks sensitivity. The S-Heel design provides the solid heel cup fit and heel hooking maneuverability.
Sizing
Firstly, you might want to check La Sportiva's own quick comparison chart. You can see that the Skwama is for mid-volume.
Secondly, I'd recommend you can get your pair 1.5 sizes below your street shoe size (European sizes).
Specs
- Weight: 7.50 oz (210 g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Microfiber / Rubber toe cap
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 0.8 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
Pros
Cons
This allows perfect stability in torsion enhancing performance and flexibility for heel hooks. The S-Heel construction provides better heel-hooking and perfect heel cup fit.
La Sportiva Futura
The Futura is equipped with Vibram XS Grip 2 and 3 mm thicknesses. That means this shoe is very sensitive.
The Futura is very similar to La Sportiva Genius. If you wonder about the differences between these shoes, you might want to check my La Sportiva Genius vs Futura Review.
The other features that the Futura has are the P3, the No-Edge concept, and the Fast Lacing System.
The No-Edge technology brings your foot closer to the rock surface for better edging performance. Also, the 3 mm thicknesses are a perfect match for No-Edge technology.
The Futura isn't a stiffer shoe and has a narrow toe box. You can do gym climbing, bouldering with the Futura.
Sizing
If you look at the La Sportiva own quick comparison chart, you can see that the Futura is for lower volume.
I'd recommend you can get your pair 0.5-1 sizes below your street shoe size (European sizes).
Specs
- Weight: 8.00 (225 g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Synthetic Leather
- Lining: Unlined
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (toe only) with P3®
- Sole: 3mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™
Pros
Cons
La Sportiva Otaki
La Sportiva Otaki is an aggressive climbing shoe that comes with the P3 and S-Heel Technology.
The Otaki offers a supportive heel-hook and closure system.
The Otaki is equipped with a Vibram XS Edge rubber compound and 4 mm thicknesses. I can easily say that just with this information, the Otaki is lack of sensitivity but durable shoes. Also, the Vibram XS Edge provides you do better edging.
The Otaki has a velcro closure system which brings you to do easy off and on. This means that you can use this shoe while you're doing gym climbing.
Also, the Otaki provides a high-level performance across various rock climbing style.
Sizing
La Sportiva Otaki is for mid-volume, you can see it here.
If your feet are shaped like triangles; a high arch, a narrow heel, and a wide toe box, the Otaki fits like a dream.
I'd recommend you can get your pair 0.5-1 sizes below your street shoe size (European sizes).
Specs
- Weight: 7.7 oz (218 g)
- Last: PD 75
- Fit: Tech w/ high asymmetry
- Upper: Leather / Microfiber
- Lining: Pacific (in front)
- Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
- Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Edge™
