Best Climbing Shoes for Edging

As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now (see full post list at the bottom).

I thought that a post devoted specifically to climbing shoes for edging would be helpful for most of you.

Before you read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you check out my best climbing shoes under 150$ post if you're a newbie.

BUT, please go on if you're climbing for a while and trying to understand edging.

In this post, I want to also talk about "What's edging?" and "What kind of climbing shoes are best for edging?". 

What kind of climbing shoes are best for edging?

As an experienced climber, I often get asked, "What are the best climbing shoes for edging?" The answer isn't one-size-fits-all and depends on the specific nature of the climbing scenario. However, it's crucial to note that not all climbing shoes are created equal when it comes to edging.

Aggressively downturned shoes, while excellent in some situations, tend to falter on edges due to their reduced surface contact with the rock. Similarly, ultra-soft shoes might not be the best choice for edging either, as their flexibility makes it difficult to maintain a solid, firm grip on the edge of your foot.

So, what does work best for edging, you might ask? The answer lies in the realm of stiff, flat shoes. These shoes are perfectly tailored for tiny edges as their rigid construction absorbs a lot of the pressure, providing a stable foothold and relieving your feet from some of the forces exerted during climbing.

Think of edging shoes as your stalwart companions, steadfastly supporting your feet on minute ledges, as opposed to softer, downturned shoes that excel in smearing or digging into the rock. While it's true that all climbing shoes can be used for edging to some extent, those with a stiffer construction and a flat shape will always outshine others.

They'll absorb more of the pressure and stress associated with standing on a tiny foothold, providing an efficient, comfortable climbing experience.

According to the above information, I categorized the features of good edging climbing shoes below:

1. Stiffness: Edging shoes are often stiffer than other types of climbing shoes. This stiffness, particularly in the sole and rand of the shoe, provides the support needed to stand on small holds.
   
   
2. Flat Profile: Shoes designed for edging often have a flatter profile, which provides a larger surface area for standing on small holds. This contrasts with more downturned or aggressive shoes, which are designed for overhanging routes where edging is less important.
   
   
3. Thick Rubber: The rubber on the sole of an edging shoe is often thicker, which provides more support and durability. This is especially important for outdoor climbing, where the rock can be rough and abrasive.

Let's keep them in our mind because I'll evaluate the shoes according to the above features and check out the climbing shoes below:

La Sportiva Miura VS

The Miura VS from La Sportiva, while sharing similarities with the classic Miura, has its unique features.

It's a high-performance shoe, designed specifically for steep and overhanging terrains, making it an excellent choice for intermediate and advanced climbers. While not built for all-day comfort, it excels in edging and performs exceptionally well on limestone and slate walls.

La Sportiva Miura VS comes with Vibram XS Edge and 4 mm thickness. This shoe already provided 2 features of 3 that I talked about earlier which are stiffness and thick rubber.

The Vibram XS Edge is developed for maximum sport and one of the rubber compounds gives you great durability. As you can understand from its name, the suggested use of this shoe where you need to do edging, also with 4 mm thicknesses give you additional support on micro hold.

Let's talk about the last feature which is flat profile.

The Miura VS is designed with high-asymmetry and PD 75 last. It means that the Miura VS is an aggressive (downturned) climbing shoe designed for performance. Therefore, it will not give us good support in this way.

In addition, The Miura VS  has P3 technology which allows climbers to exert power through their toes on the smallest of features.

La Sportiva Muira VS Sizing

As a climber, sizing the Miura VS requires some consideration due to its leather construction, which tends to stretch over time. I would suggest starting with a size that's 1-1.5 sizes smaller than your regular shoe size (US sizes). 

After breaking in your first pair, you'll have a better idea of whether you prefer a tighter or looser fit. I opt for a size 2-2.5 sizes smaller than my street shoe size, as I favor a snug, skin-tight fit.

Initially, you might find the Miura VS a bit challenging to put on due to its tight fit. However, with regular wear, the shoe will stretch and become easier to slip on, while still maintaining a secure fit.

Specs

• Upper: Leather / Recycled tongue lining / Recycled side heel rubber / Vibram® rubber rands
• Last & Fit: PD 75 & High Asymmetry
• Weight: 9.1 oz per shoe (260 g)
• Lining: Unlined underfoot / Pacific in the upper
• Construction: Slip Lasted
• Closure: Strap
• Midsole: 1.1 mm Laspoflex at the toe with P3® System
• Outsole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Edge

Scarpa Boostic

Let's get to know shortly Scarpa Boostic:
The 2021 Scarpa Boostic is a standout climbing shoe designed for small footholds.

It combines a robust midsole for support and a thin, flexible upper for sensitivity.
Its unique Velcro closure system ensures a precise fit.

Despite its stiffness, the Boostic offers more sensitivity than most edging shoes, providing a balance of support and feel for footholds.

Designed for an aggressive fit, it channels power into your big toe, yet remains relatively comfortable from the start.

Scarpa Boostic comes with Vibram XS Edge and 3.5 mm thickness. Like La Sportiva Miura VS, this shoe is naturally designed for edging. The two features already are qualified for good edging climbing shoes.

Boostic is aggressively downturned with a highly asymmetric climbing shoe which is designed for the climber who has a medium-volume foot with a classic-shaped shoe toe. Having an aggressive downturned does not provide to do the easy edging.

You can check my Scarpa Boostic vs Instinct VS and Booster S vs Boostic posts, If you want to learn more details about Scarpa Boostic.

Also, Scarpa Boostic comes with two important technology which are DTS-Tension and PAF:

DTS-Tension System:

The DTS Tension system flawlessly adapts to the foot's movement, providing exceptional support. The Differentiated Tension System focuses power on the big toe without affecting the fit in other parts of the shoe. This ensures optimal foot and toe positioning for unparalleled power transfer and precision.

The Pressure Absorbing Fit (PAF) system:

• PAF is an innovative heel system designed to evenly distribute heel tension and prevent over-compression of the toe box while enhancing heel fit.
• The aggressive tension rubber is interrupted behind the heel to alleviate Achilles tendon pressure, connected by softer rubber that adapts to the heel's shape.

Scarpa Boostic Sizing

As a climber with wide feet, I found the Scarpa Boostic an excellent fit. This shoe stands out for its comfort, which is quite impressive for a downturned shoe.

One of the standout features of the Boostic is its mesh half sock located beneath the Velcro straps. While other shoes also incorporate a half sock, I found Boostic's design to be the most comfortable.

In terms of stretch, the Boostic doesn't change much. While the shoe will break in around the knuckles, the overall length remains relatively constant.

Based on my experience, I would recommend choosing a size that's 1-1.5 sizes smaller than your regular shoe size (US sizes) for the best fit.

Specs

• Weight: 8.8 oz (250 g)
• Upper: 1.8 mm Suede & Microsuede
• Last: FZ - Aggressive, Downturned, and Highly Asymmetric
• Closure: Strap
• Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm
• Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge

La Sportiva Katana Lace: Our Favorite

The La Sportiva Katana Lace is a versatile climbing shoe that excels across a wide range of climbing styles and terrains.

From steep overhanging sport routes to multi-pitch crack adventures and technical vertical faces, the Katana Lace is a reliable partner that delivers high performance and precision.

La Sportiva Katana Lace comes with 4 mm Vibram XS Edge rubber and P3 technology like Miura VS. These features also contribute to Katana Lace's exceptional edging capabilities.

BUT, the slightly downturned design and medium asymmetry allow not only for effective hooking into pockets and exploiting tiny edges but also hooking on steep routes without compromising performance on technical vertical terrain.

I kindly explain a bit more features in my La Sportiva Kataki vs Katana post.

I want to shortly explain P3 technology because this is the second time that I'm mentioning it in this post:

The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.

La Sportiva Katana Lace Sizing

The La Sportiva Katana Lace, made of leather, will stretch slightly during a few weeks of break-in period. For top performance, consider choosing a size that's 1 to 1.5 full sizes smaller than your regular shoe size. 

The break-in period might be challenging if the shoes are sized aggressively, requiring frequent removal after each climb. However, these shoes will stretch about half a size and conform to your feet over time, providing a perfect fit and increased comfort.

The shoe's slipper-like lining and lace-up system allow for a customized fit, while the soft microfiber tongue enhances comfort. Based on my experience, I'd recommend going 0.5-1 size down from your regular shoe size.

Specs

La Sportiva TC Pro

The La Sportiva TC Pro is a rock climbing shoe specifically designed for traditional (trad) and crack climbing. Since its release in 2010, it has become a favorite among dedicated trad and crack climbers, thanks to its stiff, supportive construction that performs exceptionally well on long pitches of edges and splitter cracks.

The TC Pro is primarily designed for comfort over many pitches, making it an excellent choice for long mountain routes or multi-pitch sea cliffs. Also you can check my La Sportiva Mythos vs TC Pro post for more detail.

The additional support and protection offered by the TC Pro are also beneficial for climbing on smaller outcrops like gritstone or sandstone, which often feature cracks and chimneys.

Despite the short stature of these outcrops, climbers often complete many pitches in a day, making the TC Pro's support and protection a significant advantage for all-day use.

The La Sportiva TC Pro utilizes 4 mm XS Edge rubber, specifically designed for edging. This feature allows the shoe to stand on minuscule features with ease, offering precise performance for challenging face climbing.

Both the inside and outside edges of the shoe are designed for precision, making it a reliable choice for demanding climbs.

The TC Pro also incorporates La Sportiva's P3 technology, which provides additional support.

This design includes a tensioned rand that extends from the heel to the forefoot inside the shoe, creating a stable and stiff platform from heel to toe.

However, this design does add extra material between your foot and the shoe, which can reduce sensitivity. Despite this, the shoe's edging performance remains exceptional with precise foot placement.

Although the TC Pro may not look like an aggressive shoe (between flat and moderately downturned), it performs remarkably well on small edges. Its construction provides a stable platform that excels on granite climbing faces and edges.

It's also proficient on thin edges on limestone and sandstone crags. While the toe box may not fit into smaller pockets, the shoe inspires confidence on technical sports routes across various rock types. Once your toe is set on a positive edge, you can trust the shoe's grip and focus on planning your next move.

La Sportiva TC Pro Sizing

As a climber with wide feet, I've found that the TC Pro lean towards a mid-narrow fit, but they can accommodate a variety of foot shapes. I typically choose a size for my TC Pros that are 1.5 full European sizes smaller than my regular shoe size.

For instance, my regular shoe size is a European 43, so I wear my TC Pros in size 41.5. After using them for about two months, one shoe fits perfectly with flat toes and no extra space, while the other causes my toes to curl slightly. While this is slightly bothersome, it's still comfortable enough for a full day of climbing.

Based on my experience, I'd recommend going 0.5-1 size down from your regular shoe size.

Specs

Evolv Oracle

The Evolv Oracle is a climbing shoe designed with one primary goal in mind: to provide exceptional edging power.

This shoe is constructed with a vegan synthetic upper and a stiff heel rand that pushes your toes forward into a power position, making it ideal for standing on small edges on a steep face.

The Oracle's design includes a feature known as the Love Bump midsole, which places your toes into a crimped power position.

This, combined with the Knuckle Box, provides room for your toes and prevents them from pressing against the top of the toe rand. 

These two features which I talked about Evolv Oracle vs Shaman post work together to eliminate dead space under your toes, creating a comfortable and powerful sensation right out of the box.

The shoe also features a speed lace closure system, allowing for quick and easy on and off. This is particularly useful when you need to rest your toes or prepare for the next climb quickly.

Evolv Oracle comes with a 4.2mm TRAX® SAS. TRAX® SAS is known for its excellent friction properties, which allow climbers to maintain a secure grip on a wide variety of rock surfaces.

Also, Evolv Oracle has a downturned profile for especially wide forefoot fits.

Evolv Oracle Sizing

Choosing the right size for the Evolv Oracle can significantly impact your climbing experience. If you select a size that's one full size larger than your regular shoe size, you can expect a fit that's tight but still comfortable. 

The shoe's full lace system is a standout feature, providing a secure fit even during initial warm-ups when the laces might not be fully tightened.

Typically, Evolv shoes align closely with your regular shoe size or might be slightly smaller. If you go with your usual size, you'll likely experience a fit that's geared toward performance. However, if you prefer a bit more room, going half a size larger can offer a more relaxed fit.

In essence, finding the perfect fit for your Evolv Oracle climbing shoes is about balancing comfort and performance. It's crucial to consider your climbing style and personal comfort preferences when deciding on the best size. 

Specs

• Lining: Unlined
• Midsole: MX-P: 1.6 mm Half-Length, Love Bump, Dark Spine
• Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
• Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
• Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
• Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
• Weight: 9 oz per shoe (255 gr)

FAQ

What does edging mean for climbing?

Edging is a term that describes the precise placement of the inner or outer edge of climbing shoes.

How do you edge climbing?

Edging is a crucial climbing technique that comes into play when a foothold is too small for your entire climbing shoe.

In such cases, you have to rely on the edge of your shoe. The inside edge runs from your big toe downwards, while the outside edge runs down from your pinky toe.

When you channel your body weight onto either of these areas to stabilize yourself or power your next move, you're employing the technique of edging. Aptly named, edging involves balancing your foot on narrow rock ledges, often thinner than the width of three fingers.