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Umut Can Celik

La Sportiva Genius vs Testarossa

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La Sportiva Testarossa offers high performance

As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.

I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Testarossa vs Genius would be helpful for most of you.

They both have very high asymmetry and offer high performance, so these shoes mainly appeal to at least intermediate climbers.

Overview

If you're a beginner, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Finale and La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.

But, if you're at least intermediate, then read on.

Shortly, unless you mostly prefer to climb terrain requiring edging, pocket stabbing areas almost all the time, then I'd recommend the Genius. Because the Testarossa is designed for these types of areas and excels on steep terrain. On the other hand, the Genius offers you a very unique climbing experience because of the No-Edge concept.

  • Genius is softer and sensitive
  • Testarossa is more durable, offers better durability

As you see, they simply have a different function like other climbing shoes.

  • Quick Summary 
  • What I'll recommend is up to your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
    • If your answer is sport climbing, vertical routes, limestone, or routes that need a lot of edging, go with the Testarossa.
    • If your answer is bouldering, overhanging routes, gym climbing, sandstone, or routes that need a lot of smearing, go with the Genius.
  • Quick differences:
    • Genius is softer than Testarossa.
    • Testarossa offers better heel hooking ability than Genius.
    • Genius offers better toe hooking ability than Testarossa.
    • They have almost similar fit, according to users and my experience you can size the Genius down 1/2 size from the Testarossa.
    • The Genius has an additional toe rubber and no-edge concept.

Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart. 

Let's dive into it.

Rubber

La Sportiva Genius comes with No-Edge concept

As I always mentioned, the rubber is a primarily important thing when choosing climbing shoes.

Because, the rubber is the layer between your foot and surface, and also determines the quality of shoes - especially overall performance and durability.

The rubber thickness of these shoes is identical at 3.5 mm's, also the other important rubber parameter, the type of rubber they use, is the same which is Vibram XS Grip 2. This rubber delivers outstanding precision of support and shape stability.

Technology

The first time that I received this beast, the Testarossa.

The other thing I want to talk about is the technology that both shoes have.

Over the years, technology shoes have become a very important thing. It's a game-changer.

Both shoes have the Permanent Power Platform which is called P3.

Shortly, P3 is the technology that maintains the shape of climbing shoes after using many sessions.

Another technology only one of these shoes has (the Genius) is the No-Edge concept.

La Sportiva Genius comes with the No-Edge concept which gives an extra sensitivity to Genius. I have to tell you this, it will take some time get used to it.

No-Edge concept force you to relearn your footwork and you'll start to trust your foot more than ever.

  • La Sportiva Testarossa and Genius come with P3 

The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.

  • La Sportiva Genius also comes with No-Edge Technology

The No-Edge technology eliminates the traditional "edges" of the sole, which allows the foot to come in closer contact with the rock surface, thus enhancing foot sensitivity and allowing optimum contact on the hold. You can check the video below that made by La Sportiva

Lining

The lining affects the amount of stretching the climbing shoes will. Also, it gives a breathability to the shoes.

La Sportiva Testarossa is equipped with lined leather whereas the Genius is equipped with unlined leather.

Unlined leather offers better breathability than lined leather but much more stretching.

  • Quick Reminder

Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use. 

Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one. 

You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers on our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, and pros & cons.

Genius

  • Weight: 7.76 oz (220g)
  • Last: PD 85
  • Fit: Performance w/high asymmetry
  • Upper: Suede leather/Microfiber
  • Lining: Unlined
  • Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
  • Sole: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™

La Sportiva Genius is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (wide foot) climbing shoe is designed for high-performance. With the No-Edge concept, Genius offers you to relearn your footwork and trust your foot.

Pros

  • Better sensitivity  
  • Softer
  • Toe-hooks
  • Smearing

Cons

  • Edging  
  • Durability
  • Heel-hooks

Testarossa

  • Weight: 8.90 oz (225g)
  • Last: PD 85
  • Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
  • Upper: Leather / Lorica®
  • Lining: Pacific (toe and heel) / Dry-Best® (tongue) Unlined in the middle.
  • Midsole: 3D Hytrel Anatomical Insert (under toes) with P3®
  • Sole: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™

One of the first aggressive rock shoes is La Sportiva Testarossa. The first time that La Sportiva introduced the Testarossa in 2003. After many years, La Sportiva Testarossa has become one of the most desired climbing shoes for advanced climbers. La Sportiva Testarossa is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (higher volume) climbing shoe is designed for high-performance. 

Pros

  • Edging 
  • Pocket
  • Durability
  • Heel-hooks

Cons

  • Toe-hooks 
  • Smearing

La Sportiva Otaki vs Solution

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La Sportiva Solution offers sensitivity

As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.

I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Solution vs Otaki would be helpful for most of you.

Because they're really popular and high-performance shoes mainly appeal to at least intermediate climbers.

Overview

If you're a beginner, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace and La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.

If, on the other hand, you're at least intermediate, then read on.

In short, if you're planning to climb steep terrains, overhanging routes, I'd recommend the Solution. Because the Solution is designed for these types of routes and performance-focused climbing shoes. But, you're mostly doing sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes, then go with the Otaki.

  • Solution offers better sensitivity and performance.
  • Otaki is much more versatile, offers more edging capability, and is also a bit more durable.

As you see, Solution is more for advanced climbers.

  • Quick Summary 
  • I'd recommend basing your decision primarily on your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
    • If your answer is hard bouldering and overhanging, go with Solution.
    • If you're doing multi-pitch and sport climbing, go with Otaki.
  • Quick differences:
    • Otaki is more durable than Solution because of having a more rigid rubber.
    • Owing to its overall anatomy, the Solution is a bit more aggressive through the arch which is perfect for overhanging routes.
    • Both shoes have the velcro closure system, but the Otaki has two opposing velcro-enclosure whereas the Solution has a one-velcro enclosure system with the Fast Lacing System tech.
  • Best uses:
    • Otaki is more all-around climbing shoes than the Solution and is also good at edging.
    • Solution is more suitable for competitive uses.

Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.

Let's dive into it.

Rubber

La Sportiva Otaki offers edging capability

I always say that the rubber is the number one thing you should look for when getting a new shoe.

Because, the rubber is the flat between your foot and surface, and also determine the almost every quality of shoes - especially overall performance and durability.

Although the rubber thickness of these shoes is identical at 4 mm's, the other important rubber parameter, the type of rubber they use, is different.

The Otaki is equipped with Vibram XS Edge rubber compound whereas the Solution is equipped with Vibram XS Grip2.

The main difference between these rubber technologies is that XS Edge (belongs to Otaki) is a more durable and edging capability that XS Grip2 (belongs to Solution). The Vibram XS Grip2 offers more sensitivity, which means you can easily feel features more effectively underneath your toes.

  • They both come with the P3 technology 

The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.

The Vibram XS Edge, on the other hand, is definitely better for edging, as the name implies. It makes focusing your weight on the smallest of holds much easier compared to XS Grip2.

One of the other things that come with the Vibram XS Edge, is durability. Because of the Vibram XS Edge, the Otaki is more durable than the Solution. But, it doesn't mean that the Solution isn't durable. The Vibram XS Grip2 also offers durable but not like the Vibram XS Edge.

Volume

Both shoes are for medium volume, but if you look at the La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Quick Comparison Graph, you can see that the Solution is a bit for narrow volume than the Otaki

  • Quick Reminder 

Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use. 

Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one. 

You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers on our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, and pros & cons. 

Solution

  • Weight: 8.89 oz (258 g)
  • Last: PD 75
  • Fit: Performance w/high asymmetry
  • Upper: Leather/ Lorica®
  • Lining: HF (toe-box and arch area only)
  • Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (forefoot only)
  • Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™

The La Sportiva Solution is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (medium volume) climbing shoes which are designed for high-performance. Having a durable closure system and additional rubber on the toe box gives a great fit and makes us do edging easily.

Pros

  • Sensitive  
  • Great precision
  • Stickier
  • The easy on and off

Cons

  • Not comfortable for an all-day climbing session  
  • Not the most versatile

Otaki

  • Weight: 7.7 oz (218g)
  • Last: PD 75
  • Fit: Tech w/high asymmetry
  • Upper: Leather/Microfiber
  • Lining: Pacific (in front)
  • Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
  • Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™

La Sportiva Otaki is an aggressive climbing shoe that comes with P3 and S-Heel technology. The Otaki offers a supportive heel-hook and closure system. La Sportiva Otaki provides a high-level performance across various rock climbing style. The Otaki is also drawing attention to edging ability.

Pros

  • Edging  
  • Easy on and off
  • Well-rounded
  • Versatile

Cons

  • Toe hooking  
  • Pockets

La Sportiva Otaki vs Miura

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La Sportiva Otaki offers quite comfortable experience

As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.

Some of the climbers say that the Otaki is a modified Miura and they continue that both shoes have similar rubber, similar last, etc.

I'm here to reveal their similarity and differences, and a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Miura vs Otaki would be helpful for most of you.

Overview

If you're beginner, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Finale and La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.

But, if you're at least intermediate, then read on.

In short, they're both all-around climbing shoes. But, if you're planning to climb mostly overhanging routes and vertical face climbing, then I'd recommend the Otaki. On the other hand, if you prefer to go to crack climbing or sport climbing, go with the Miura.

  • Miura is stiffer than Otaki, offers an adjustable fit because of the lace-up closure system
  • Otaki is more comfortable than Miura, comes with the technologies like the P3 and S-Heel which Miura is lack of these features.
  • Quick Summary 
  • Best uses:
    • Both shoes are all-around climbing shoes.
    • Otaki offers a powerful face-climbing experience, and can also be used for jamming cracks.
    • Miura is like an arsenal for small edges.
  • Quick differences:
    • Otaki's toe box is wider than the Miura.
    • Otaki is designed for medium foot and also has a narrow heel for better heel-hooking whereas the Miura is designed for a narrow foot.
    • Otaki has a velcro closure system, while the Miura has a laced-up system.

Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.

Let's dive into it.

Similarities

The rubber compound of climbing shoes is a highly important, La Spoartiva Otaki.

The salient similarity of both shoes is their rubber and thickness. Both shoes are equipped with 4mm Vibram XS Edge.

Vibram XS Edge is a rubber compound that is developed for maximum support, edging, and durability.

The other important similarity they have is their last.

They are built on the PD 75 last. The PD is essential data to understand how aggressive the geometry of shoe is. Also, the PD stands for power (pointy)/downturn, when the number is greater, it means that more aggressive dowturn and pointy climbing shoes.

Differences

La Sportiva Miura is edging master

The striking difference between these shoes when you look for the first time is their closure system.

The Otaki is equipped with the velcro closure system whereas the Miura is equipped with the laced-up closure system.

Both systems offer different features to these shoes.

I want to start with the Otaki. The velcro closure system offer to climber easy take on and off. If you hear like this kinda thing "easy take-off and on" in climbing shoes, I'd recommend you to think about what's the purpose of this while climbing. 

The first thing that comes to my mind is "What kind of climbing am I planning to do most?". 

If you're planning to go to short routes, bouldering, I'd recommend the Otaki with the velcro closure system. BUT, if you're doing mostly multi-pitch climbing, then go with the Miura with the lace-up.

One of the important advantages of the lace-up closure is the adjustable fit. You can easily set up the fitting.

The other difference between these shoes that the technologies they have. The Otaki have more technologies than the Miura which are;

  • La Sportiva Otaki comes with the P3 technology

The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.

Maintaining the downturned shape of the shoe gives the durability to the shoes, also the other advantage of the P3 technology offers more supportive climbing shoes.

  • La Sportiva Otaki also comes with the S-Heel

The S-Heel construction provides better heel-hooking and perfect heel cup fit.

This feature gives better heel-hooking maneuverability to the Otaki.

Miura's lack this feature.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, and pros & cons

Miura

  • Weight: 8.43 oz (239 g)
  • Last: PD 75
  • Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
  • Upper: Leather
  • Lining: Dentex
  • Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (forefoot only)
  • Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™

La Sportiva Miura is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (low volume) climbing shoes which are designed for high-performance, plus The Miura is on the market for more than a decade but still a preferred model - it's a quite good climbing shoe.

Pros

  • Edging  
  • Crack climbing
  • Well-rounded
  • Versatile

Cons

  • Laces not durable  
  • Lack of some tech

Otaki

  • Weight: 7.7 oz (218g)
  • Last: PD 75
  • Fit: Tech w/high asymmetry
  • Upper: Leather/Microfiber
  • Lining: Pacific (in front)
  • Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
  • Sole: 4mm Vibram® XS Edge™

La Sportiva Otaki is an aggressive climbing shoe that comes with P3 and S-Heel technology. The Otaki offers a supportive heel-hook and closure system. La Sportiva Otaki provides a high-level performance across various rock climbing style. The Otaki is also drawing attention to edging ability.

Pros

  • Edging 
  • Smearing
  • Easy take on and off
  • Well-rounded
  • Versatile

Cons

  • Toe hooking 
  • Pockets

La Sportiva Genius vs Futura

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La Sportiva Genius comes with the lace-up

As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.

Many users say that the Futura is the velcro version of the Genius.

Yes, the differences between the Futuras and the Geniuses are small, but I thought that some differences are still worth mentioning, and a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Futura vs Genius would be helpful for most of you.

Overview

If you're beginner, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace and La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.

On the other side, if you're at least intermediate, then read on.

Shortly, both shoes offer a very similar experience. But if you generally prefer to spend time bouldering, gym climbing, and short routes, I'd mostly recommend the Futura because of the velcro closure system. Conversely, Genius provides a more precise fit and is an all-around performer for general overhanging/sport climbing.

  • Genius is a little more supportive and more secure fit
  • Futura is a tad softer and offers little more sensitivity

As you see, Genius is a little bit more performance shoes.

  • Quick Summary
  • Quick differences:
    • Genius is for wide volume foot whereas Futura is for narrow volume.
    • Genius is stiffer than Futura.
    • Genius is more durable than Futura.
    • Genius gives you to do a better ability of heel-hooking than Futura.
    • Futura is a bit more sensitive than Genius.
    • Genius has a slightly wider toe box which gives you a bit more comfort than Futura.
    • Genius comes with the lace-up closure system, meanwhile, Futura comes with the velcro closure system.

Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.

Let's dive into it.

Rubber

La Sportiva Futura draws attention with sensitivity

All the previous posts I've always paid attention to the importance of rubber when it comes to comparing climbing shoes.

So, it's obvious why the rubber is so important because of rubber is the only thing between your foot and surface. 

Okay, now what we have is, as I've already mentioned the beginning of this post about how small the differences between these shoes, they both come with Vibram XS Grip 2, 3 mm thicknesses. 

Even the technologies of these shoes have is the same. They both have the P3 (Permanent Power Platform) and the No-Edge concept. BUT, if we look deeply into their features, we can see the little but important difference which is the midsole.

The Futura is equipped with 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (toe only) whereas the Genius is equipped with 1.1 mm Laspoflex. The difference is between midsoles that the Futura has a partial midsole which is mentioned "toe only". It means that the Genius's full-foot midsole provides more comfort and support than the Futuras. However, the Futura offers more power to the big toe.

  • They both come with P3 technology and the No-Edge Concept 

What is P3?

The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little. 

What is the No-Edge concept?

The No-Edge technology eliminates the traditional "edges" of the sole, which allows the foot to come in closer contact with the rock surface, thus enhancing foot sensitivity and allowing optimum contact on the hold. You can check the video below that made by La Sportiva.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, pros & cons.

Futura

  • Weight: 8.00 oz (225g)
  • Last: PD 75
  • Fit: Performance w/high asymmetry
  • Upper: Leather/Synthetic leather
  • Lining: Unlined
  • Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (toe only) with P3®
  • Sole: 3 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™

La Sportiva Futura is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (narrow volume) climbing shoe which is designed for high-performance. Having the no-edge concept force you to climb more precisely. You have to relearn your footwork with La Sportiva Futura.

Pros

  • Better sensitivity 
  • Great surface area
  • Smearing
  • Easy take-off and on

Cons

  • Durability  
  • Toe-hooks
  • Edging
  • Peeling rubber

Genius

  • Weight: 7.76 oz (220g)
  • Last: PD 85
  • Fit: Performance w/high asymmetry
  • Upper: Suede leather/Microfiber
  • Lining: Unlined
  • Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
  • Sole: 3 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™

La Sportiva Genius is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry ( wide foot) climbing shoe is designed for high-performance. With the No-Edge concept, Genius offers you to relearn your footwork and trust your foot.

Pros

  • More durable  
  • Great surface area
  • Customizable fit
  • Better heel-hook
  • All-around

Cons

  • Toe-hooks  
  • Edging

La Sportiva Solution vs Genius

by

La Sportiva Genius comes with great sensitivity

As some of you know, I've been publishing in-depth information around La Sportiva's climbing shoes for months now.

I thought a post around La Sportiva Genius vs Solution would be helpful for most of you as they're both high-performance climbing shoes.

Because they constantly are compared with each other among high-end climbing shoes.

Overview

Let's take a brief look at them before we dig any deeper.

If you're a newbie, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace or La Sportiva Tarantulace and Tarantula posts.

But, if you're at least an intermediate, please read on.

In short, unless you mostly prefer to climb steep terrains and/or overhanging (roof) areas almost all the time, I'd recommend the Genius. Otherwise, I'd recommend the Solution. On the other hand, the Genius offers you a very unique climbing experience because of the No-Edge concept.

  • Genius is absolutely much better sensitive
  • Solution is more durable, offers more stiff climbing shoe

As you see, they simply have different functions.

  • Quick Summary 
  • What I'll recommend is up to your answer to the following question: What kind of climbing are you planning to do mostly?
    • If your answer is bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, sandstone rock, or routes that need a lot of smearing, go with the Genius.
    • If you're doing mostly slab climbing, technical face, overhanging routes, or the edge routes, go with the Solution.
  • Quick differences:
    • Solution is generally is for a medium foot, Genius is for wide foot according to La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Quick Comparison Graph.
    • Genius is more comfortable than Solution.
    • Solution has a velcro closure system whereas Genius has a laced-up.
    • Solution offers better toe-hooks than Genius.
    • Genius is more comfortable than Solution.
    • Solution offers better edging performance than Genius.
    • Genius is much better at smearing than Solution.

Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check La Sportiva Climbing Shoe Comparison Chart.

Let's dive into it.

Rubber

La Sportiva Genius is a high-end lace-up climbing shoe with No-Edge technology. 

As you are well aware, rubber is a critical part of climbing shoes. While choosing a climbing shoe, one of the first things you might want to look at is rubber.

Because the rubber of the climbing shoes determines the quality. Rubber tells a lot of things about shoes. Life of the shoe, the durability of the shoe, etc.

Although the rubber compound of these shoes is identical at Vibram XS Grip 2, the other equally important rubber parameter, the rubber thickness they have, is different.

The Solution comes with 4 mm sole whereas the Genius comes with 3 mm sole. Also, they both have a 1.1 mm LaspoFlex midsole with P3.

The main difference, as you see above, between these shoes is rubber thicknesses. This difference is a game-changer. The first thing that comes into my mind is, when I see the difference in their thickness, the Genius is more sensitive than the Solution but the Solution is more durable than the Genius.

Technology

La Sportiva Solution comes with P3

The other thing that determines the quality of climbing shoes is the technology the shoe has.

Both shoes have the Permanent Power Platform which is called P3.

P3 is the technology that maintains the shape of climbing shoes after using many sessions, and also ensuring support to the shoe.

Another technology only one of these shoes has is the No-Edge concept.

La Sportiva Genius comes with the No-Edge concept which gives an extra sensitivity to Genius.

If you never climb with the No-Edge concept, it's getting time to get used to it. But, once you understand the concept of No-Edge, climbing will be more creative.

No-Edge concept force you to relearn your footwork and you'll start to trust your foot more than ever.

  • La Sportiva Solution and Genius come with P3 technology 

The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little. 

Maintaining the downturned shape of the shoe gives the durability to the shoes, also the other advantage of the P3 technology offers more supportive climbing shoes.

  • La Sportiva Genius also comes with No-Edge concept 

The No-Edge technology eliminates the traditional "edges" of the sole, which allows the foot to come in closer contact with the rock surface, thus enhancing foot sensitivity and allowing optimum contact on the hold. You can check the video below that made by La Sportiva.

Durability

The lace-up closure system allows for the most precise fit.

The durability is a must feature while we're talking about the quality of climbing shoes.

The primary part of the climbing shoe that affect durability is the rubber.

The rubber compound and thicknesses of the climbing shoes directly change the durability of the shoe.

As I mentioned in the section of Rubber, they both are equipped with the same rubber compound which is Vibram XS Grip 2.

But the thickness of these shoes is different. The Genius is 3 mm whereas The Solution is 4 mm.

I can easily say that La Sportiva Solution is more durable than the Genius with the information as I mentioned above.

If we look at the rubber compound both shoes have, Vibram XS Grip 2 delivers outstanding precision of support, shape stability, and also offers the superior grip characteristic with solid durability but not like Vibram XS Edge.

The other thing about the durability of these shoes I want to talk about what closure system they have.

Okay, what we know is the Genius comes with the laced closure system whereas the Solution comes with the velcro. The closure system doesn't only affect the adjustable fit of climbing shoes, it also affects the durability of shoes.

So, the laced closure system the Genius have offers more durable climbing shoes than the Solution with velcro (Fast Lacing System).

Lining

Climbing with Genius is a different challenge 

The lining affects the amount of stretching the climbing shoes will. Also, it gives a breathability to the shoes.

La Sportiva Solution is equipped with partially lined leather which means that the Solution is only lined toe box and arch area whereas the Genius is equipped with unlined leather.

Unlined leather offers better breathability than lined leather but much more stretching.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized reviews, tech specs, and pros & cons.

Solution

  • Weight: 8.89 oz (258g)
  • Last: PD 75
  • Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
  • Upper: Leather/ Lorica®
  • Lining: HF (toe-box and arch area only)
  • Midsole: 1.1 mm LaspoFlex (forefoot only) with P3®
  • Sole: 4 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™

La Sportiva Solution is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry (medium volume) climbing shoe which is designed for high-performance. Having a durable closure system and additional rubber on the toe box gives a great fit and makes us do edging easily.

Pros

  • Edging  
  • Toe-hooks
  • Durability
  • Overhanging routes

Cons

  • Not durable closure system
  • Heel-hooks
  • Poor sensitivity on the toe
  • Not comfortable for all-day

Genius

  • Weight: 7.76 oz (220g)
  • Last: PD 85
  • Fit: Performance w/ high asymmetry
  • Upper: Suede leather / Microfiber
  • Lining: Unlined
  • Midsole:  1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®
  • Sole: 3 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™

La Sportiva Genius is aggressively downturned with high asymmetry ( wide foot) climbing shoe is designed for high-performance. With the No-Edge concept, Genius offers you to relearn your footwork and trust your foot.

Pros

  • Smearing
  • Great surface area
  • Durability on closure system
  • Sensitivity

Cons

  • Durability
  • Toe-hooks
  • Edging