Umut Can Celik

Scarpa Booster S vs Instinct VS

February 16, 2021 by Umut Can Celik

After a long route, my Booster S want to rest.

As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now (see full post list at the bottom).

I thought that a post devoted specifically to Instinct VS vs Booster S would be helpful for most of you.

Overview

Before you read ANYTHING, you might want to check Scarpa's Family Tree and Scarpa's Climbing Collection.

By the way, if you're a newbie, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my Scarpa Origin vs Force V or La Sportiva Finale vs Scarpa Helix posts.

Recently, I'm exploring various climbing shoe brands. The Scarpa's is one of them. I tried both shoes which fit my needs in many different and really complementary ways.

In short, if you're mostly doing gym climbing, I'd recommend you go with the Booster S. Because, its softness and stickiness make it a dream indoors. BUT, if you're mostly going to go outdoor for climbing, I'd definitely prefer the Instinct VS because of the stiffer rubber and ability of edging.

Instinct VS is noticeably stiffer and durable.
Booster S is softer and stickier.

Quick Summary

Sizing & Fit
- The Booster S has a medium volume with a classic shaped shoe toe (Egyptian) while the Instinct VS has a higher volume with a center-shaped shoe toe (Greek).
- So, they fit my narrow foot and low volume heel very well, especially the Instinct VS due to higher volume.
- I wear the same size in both shoes (42 euro size). Downsizing from your street shoe size (mine is 43) is likely recommended for both. If you're looking for more performance, downsizing 1.5-2 sizes will be a better option.
- Nevertheless, I've noticed that when I place the two shoes side by side (same size), the Booster S looks to be significantly smaller than the Instinct VS. Because the Booster S is more downturned than the Instinct VS.
- The Instinct VS has a quite wider toe box than the Booster S.
- The Booster S is more pointy and aggressive than the Instinct VS.
Similarities
- Their thicknesses are identical at 3.5 mm's.
- Both have a velcro closure system.
Differences
- The Booster S is equipped with Vibram XS Grip 2 while the Instinct VS is equipped with Vibram XS Edge.
- The Booster S comes with Tri-Tension System whereas the Instinct VS comes with Bi-Tension System.

Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Scarpa's Own Chart Size.

Let's dive into it.

Differences

Scarpa Instinct VS

The rubber thicknesses of these shoes are identical at 3.5 mm's, as mentioned. The other equally important parameter, the type of rubber compound they use is different.

If you say "How will affect my climbing?", here are some key points;

The rubber is the most important thing between your feet and the surface.
Also, it determines the overall performance and the intended use.

So, the Instinct VS is equipped with the Vibram XS Edge whereas the Booster S is equipped with the Vibram XS Grip 2.

Vibram XS Grip 2 and Vibram XS Edge

What's the Vibram XS Grip 2?

It's developed for pure friction.
It gives superior grip characteristics.
It delivers outstanding precision of support and shape stability.

How about the Vibram XS Edge?

It allows you to focus your weight on the tiniest of holds.
It keeps its shape through repeated stress, whether in hot or cold weather because of improved plastic deformation resistance.
It's developed for maximum support.

Differences between two shoes?

The Vibram XS Edge is more durable than the Vibram XS Grip 2.
The Vibram XS Grip 2 provides a better grip than the XS Edge.
The Vibram XS Edge has better edging ability than the XS Grip 2.

The Instinct VS is equipped with the Vibram XS Edge which allows you to focus your weight on the tiniest of holds.

As a result of the different rubber compounds, the Instinct VS is far better at edging than the Booster S.

Also, the Instinct VS is allowing for more versatility with harder rubber and a bit more neutral toe position.

I can say that the Instinct VS performs well while overhanging, but there is a better option here, the Booster S.

The Booster S has a much more aggressive toe position. More pointed and more asymmetric than the Instinct VS.

Thus, the Booster S is a great choice for steep problems, but I wouldn't recommend it for the slab. But, the Instinct VS holds the advantage here.

The other remarkable differences between those shoes;

The Booster S has more reliable on smearing than the Instinct VS.
The Instinct VS has a much higher heel and protects your ankle better than the Booster S.

The Booster S comes with Tri-Tension whereas the Instinct VS comes with the Bi-Tension

Both systems are about active randing.

What's the Bi-Tension?

Shortly, the Bi-Tension system maintains a tension between the tip and the heel for better transmission of the supports.

More specifically, a reverse slingshot rand that's anchored under the critical toe area and connects directly to the heel rand, only there's nothing basic about it.

You might want to check this if you wonder about how Scarpa assembles upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4) for the Instinct VS.

What's the Tri-Tension?

Scarpa said that " Tri-Tension is specially designed for use in our shoes that have a 1/3 (or less) outsole. Simply, it holds the foot from below like a big hand and acts as a power transfer from the toes to heel".

Also, you might want to check this, if you wonder about the Booster S' assembly with the same construction but different active randing because of the Tri-Tension.

Similarities

Scarpa Booster S

There are some remarkable similarities that I want to mention about it.

They both come with a velcro closure system which allows you easily get off and get on.

Their thicknesses are identical at 3.5 mm's, as mentioned.

They both reliable climbing shoes for performance.

Both have a solid heel and hook well. Also, their toe hooking performance is sufficient because of extra rubber on the toe box area.

Quick Reminder

Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

VS

Weight: 8.1 oz (230 g)
Upper: Microsuede & Leather
Last: FV - Moderately Downturned, Moderately Asymmetric
Closure: Strap
Midsole: Flexan 1.0 mm
Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge™ (forefoot), 2 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2™ (heel)

Scarpa Instinct VS is great for edging and all arounder climbing shoe that comes with Vibram® XS Edge™ and Bi-Tension technology. Scarpa Instinct VS provides edging ability and durability. Also, the VS is suitable for climbing shoes to anyone looking for a versatile semi-aggressive to aggressive shoe.

Pros

Versatile
Durable
Edging
Heel and Toe Hooking

Cons

Grip
Sensitivity
Smearing

Booster S

Weight: 7.05 oz (200 g)
Upper: Microfiber
Last: FZ - Highly Downturned, Highly Asymmetric
Closure: Strap
Midsole: 1.0 mm Flexan FHL
Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2

Scarpa Booster S is supportive enough to ensure the poorest edge is trusted completely. The Booster S is designed for anything overhung at the indoor gym climbing, sport climbing, and boulder field. It has a sharp asymmetry and highly downturned last with the Vibram XS Grip 2. Also, its upper material stretches to comfortably conform to your foot.

Pros

Smearing
Toe and Heel hooking
Sensitivity
Grip

Cons

Edging
Durability
Slab

Scarpa Arpia vs Vapor V

February 14, 2021 by Umut Can Celik

Scarpa Vapor V

As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now (see full post list at the bottom).

I thought that a post devoted specifically to Vapor V vs Arpia would be helpful for most of you.

Overview

If you're doing climbing for a while, and you want to go next level of climbing. These shoes will help you through that transition. And, I'm going to help you to choose which one is the better option for you guys.

But, if you're looking for more performance shoes you can check out my Scarpa Drago vs Furia S post, or if you're a beginner then you might want to check my Scarpa Origin vs Force V post.

In short, unless you're planning to climb sport climbing, steep climbing, and/or edging areas pretty much all the time, then I'd mostly recommend the Arpia. Because the Vapor V is designed for those looking for a performance with moderate climbing shoes.

Arpia is softer and more comfortable.
Vapor V is more pointy and durable.

Quick Summary

Sizing:
- The Vapor V has a lower volume last with a classic shaped shoe toe (Egyptian) while the Arpia has a medium volume last with a square-shaped toe (Roman). You might want to check Scarpa's Family Tree.
- I've decided to try these shoes in the store. By the way, I have wide feet with a square-shaped toe.
- The first thing that I noticed is the Arpia's toe box is wider than the Vapor V's.
- The other thing is the Vapor V is more asymmetric than the Arpia, and both are moderately downturned.
- So, while trying these shoes, I made my sizing choices based on the above.
- Therefore, I go with downsizing 1.5 full sizes from street shoes (43 euro sizes) for the Arpia, it fits snug. The Arpia's toe box is precise for my roman feet type. Also, I tried the Arpia with downsizing 1.5 full sizes from my street shoes. But it doesn't feel how I wanted, so I tried 1 size below, it feels a little tight but it's okay. I know, it'll stretch.
Quick Differences:
- The Arpia is equipped with the Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber whereas the Vapor V is equipped with the Vibram XS Edge.
- They both come with a strap closure but the difference is that the Arpia comes with Z-strap while the Vapor V comes with the classical strap.
- The Vapor V is designed with Bi-Tension technology while the Arpia is designed with V-tension.
Quick Similarities:
- Both are moderate climbing shoes for beginner to intermediate climbers.
- Both are slip-lasted climbing shoes with synthetic microsuede uppers.

Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Scarpa's Climbing Collection.

Let's dive into it.

Differences

The Arpia comes with Z-Strap

The rubber is pretty much the number one thing you should look for when getting a new shoe.

If you ask why then let me explain the importance of the rubber compound.

It's the most important thing between your feet and the surface
It determines the intended use and overall performance.

Although the rubber thicknesses of these shoes are identical at 3.5 mm's, the other equally important rubber parameter, the type of rubber compound they use, is different.

The Arpia is equipped with Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber whereas the Vapor V is equipped with Vibram XS Edge.

Let me compare these rubber compounds with the chart that I prepared for you guys.

Vibram XS Edge and Vibram XS Grip 2

What's the Vibram XS Edge?

It's developed for maximum support.
It allows you to focus your weight on the tiniest of holds.
It keeps its shape through repeated stress, whether in hot or cold weather because of improved plastic deformation resistance.

How about the Vibram XS Grip 2?

It's developed for pure friction.
It delivers outstanding precision of support and shape stability.
It gives superior grip characteristics.

Differences between those?

The Vibram XS Edge is more durable than the Vibram XS Grip 2.
The Vibram XS Grip 2 provides a better grip than the XS Edge.
The Vibram XS Edge has better edging ability than the XS Grip 2.

Scarpa Vapor V (Right) vs Scarpa Arpia (Left)

The other difference is, as you can see from the picture, their strap type.

The Arpia comes with a new "wave/Z" closure system. It provides to fit a range of foot shapes than the Vapor V, and you can able to get a more precise fit in the Arpia.

Also, you can see from the picture, the Vapor V has extra rubber above the toe box which means that the Vapor V has a better capacity of toe hooking than the Arpia.

The Arpia comes with the V-Tension whereas the Vapor V comes with the Bi-Tension

Both systems are about the active randing.

What's the V-Tension?

This system enhances toe-pulling power by supporting the arch and forefoot area. This tensioned rubber wrap is paired with a full sole unit and so does not need rear bands.

It maintains the optimum foot position for small footholds.

You might want to check this if you wonder about how Scarpa assembles upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4) for the Arpia.

What's the Bi-Tension?

Shortly, the Bi-Tension system maintains a tension between the tip and the heel for better transmission of the supports.

More specifically, a reverse slingshot rand that's anchored under the critical toe area and connects directly to the heel rand, only there's nothing basic about it.

Also, you might want to check this, if you wonder about the Vapor V's assembly with the same construction but different active randing because of the Bi-Tension.

Similarities

Scarpa Vapor V

There are some remarkable similarity between these shoes which are;

They both come with a velcro closure system which allows you easily get off and get on.
They both are moderate climbing shoes.
Their thicknesses are identical at 3.5 mm's.

The other similarities are:

They can be resoled.
They both have synthetic uppers.
Their lasts are slip-lasted.

Quick Reminder

Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

Arpia

Weight: 6.7 oz (190 g)
Upper: Microsuede with soft-touch backing
Last: FK - Slightly Downturned, Slightly Asymmetric
Closure: Strap
Midsole: Flexan Dynamix 1.4 mm
Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Grip 2

Scarpa Arpia is designed for those looking to transition from a beginner to an intermediate level. The Arpia is simple and sensitive, and also provides a superior grip with the Vibram XS Grip 2.

Pros

Grip
Sensitive
Z-Strap
Comfort

Cons

Toe hooking
Durability
Sport Climbing

Vapor V

Weight: 8.5 oz (240 g)
Upper: Microsuede & Leather
Last: FR - Moderately Downturned, Moderately Asymmetric
Closure: Strap
Midsole: Flexan Dynamix 1.4 mm
Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge

Scarpa Vapor V is versatile and precise that combines a comfortable fit. The Vapor V offers to edge with a slightly downturned shape, medium to low angled toe box results in excellent precision.

Pros

Edging
Durability
Easily get on and off
Sport Climbing

Cons

Multi-pitch
Grip
Sensitivity

Scarpa Helix vs La Sportiva Tarantulace

February 4, 2021 by Umut Can Celik

La Sportiva Tarantulace in action

As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Scarpa Helix would be helpful for most of you.

The first thing you should know about them is that the Tarantulace is designed for newbies while the Helix offers a wide range of levels more than the Tarantulace, like a beginner to intermediate.

Overview

If you're looking for a performance, I'd recommend you to stop reading this post and check out my La Sportiva Testarossa vs Solution or Scarpa Drago vs Furia S posts.

Shortly, if you're a newbie, spending lots of time in the gym, or looking for a shoe that is suitable for moderate multi-pitch routes, then the Tarantulace is an excellent option. BUT, if you're looking to push the grade and break into harder climbs, or spend time at trad climbing, then go with the Helix.

Tarantulace is more comfortable and more sticky.
Helix is more sensitive and softer.

Quick Summary

Sizing:
- They're designed for medium volume. You can check out Sportiva's Quick Comparison Chart and Scarpa's Family Tree.
- For the Tarantulace, downsizing 1 to 1.5 full size from street shoes has worked for me, but if you want more comfort you can go down 0.5-1 full size. By the way, I have wide volume feet and my feet type is Roman.
- Also, according to La Sportiva, "Unlined slip-lasted shoes tend to stretch a bit more than lined shoes - about one full size."
- So, you might consider even 2 full sizes because the Tarantulace is slip-lasted.
- For the Helix, downsizing 1-1.5 full size for performance, or 0.5-1 size for comfort will work for you guys.
Quick Differences:
- The Tarantulace is equipped with 5 mm FriXion RS while the Helix is equipped with 3.5 mm Vibram XS Edge.
- The upper material of the Helix is suede-leather whereas the Tarantulace's is leather/ synthetic leather.
- The Tarantulace comes with a slip-lasted last while the Helix comes with a board-lasted last.
Quick Similarities:
- They both come with a lace-up closure system.

Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa's Climbing Collection or La Sportiva Comparison Chart.

Let's dive into it.

Differences

La Sportiva Tarantulace

Having a beginner climbing shoe like the Tarantulace which has 5 mm FriXion RS means that you can abuse these shoes.

On the other hand, even though the Helix has Vibram XS rubber, you should know how to do proper footwork at the least for longer usage due to 3.5 mm thicknesses.

It's really important to learn how to do the footwork for developing yourself at climbing. So, in my opinion, the Tarantulace has been helpful and will be helpful for most beginners to learn proper footwork and climbing techniques.

Let me explain shortly the features of both compounds:

FriXion RS:

gives you durability, optimum stick, and a noticeable performance advantage.

Vibram XS Edge:

developed to provide maximum support edging and gives durability.

The FriXion RS is an older technology than the Vibram XS Edge. There's an absolute winner of this competition about durability which is Vibram XS Edge. Solid, supportive, and new rubber technology.

Another difference between these shoes is their upper material. As you can see in the conclusion chapter, the Tarantulace is covered up with leather / synthetic leather whereas the Helix is covered up with suede leather.

Lined tongue for moisture management

Wait, how is it possible that the Tarantualce is covered up two different materials. I'll tell you and show you how. Look at the picture on the right.

The synthetic leather overlay lacing harness.
It adds great support for entry-level climbers.
Also, the unlined leather is comfortable and soft, but there's a disadvantage to the unlined leather (slip-lasted) which stretches about one full size.

Quick Tip-1

What's the difference between suede leather and leather?

Leather is buttery and smooth.
Suede is matted and matty.
Leather is more durable because it's made from the exterior of the animal which is naturally the protective layer of the animals.

I've talked about the upper materials, rubber compounds, and rubber thicknesses of these shoes up to now.

So, there's the one last difference which I want to tell you guys is their lasts.

The Tarantulace is equipped with slip-lasted whereas the Helix is equipped with board-lasted.

Quick Tip-2

What is the meaning of climbing shoes last?

A last is a foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last give shoes their volume, toe dimensions, heel, instep height, and also width.

Most rock climbing shoes come with slip-lasted whereas some of them are board-lasted.

Slip-lasted: Generally, the climbing shoes which are slip-lasted are more likely sensitive and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They get their stiffness from the midsole.

Board-lasted: The climbing shoes with board-lasted tend to be obviously stiffer than slip-lasted due to the above information :). More stiffness means lack of sensitivity, but providing durability and comfort.

Similarities

The Helix (Left) vs The Tarantulace (Right)

In my opinion, there's only one remarkable similarity between these shoes which is their closure system.

They both come with a lace-up closure system which:

Allows you to adjust the fit of climbing shoes whatever way you want to.

The other similarities are:

They can be resoled.
They both are neutral climbing shoes
They are designed for all-day comfort.

Quick Reminder

Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

Helix

Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
Last: FF - Flat Profile, Slightly Asymmetric
Closure: Lace
Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm Full Length
Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge

Scarpa Helix is designed to provide comfort, durability, and adjustable fit with a lace closure system. It has also a flat and neutral shape and also has the Vibram XS Edge rubber compound which gives you to doing better edging capacity.

Pros

Comfort
Sensitivity
Edging
Adjustable fit

Cons

Smearing
Get off and on
Grip

Tarantulace

Weight: 9.30 oz (260 g)
Upper: Leather / Synthetic Leather
Last: RN 45
Fit: Comfort with low asymmetry
Lining: Unlined
Midsole: 1.8 mm LaspoFlex
Sole: 5 mm FriXion® RS

La Sportiva Tarantulace is the perfect shoe for a beginner to learn the basics. Its low asymmetrical design provides comfort without hurting your toes. Also, Its quick pull lacing harness delivers a snug precise fit.

Pros

Grip
Comfort
Adjustable fit
Breathability

Cons

Edging
Performance
Sensitivity

Scarpa Origin vs La Sportiva Tarantula

February 1, 2021 by Umut Can Celik

LS Tarantula is on duty

As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

I thought that a post devoted specifically to La Sportiva Tarantula vs Scarpa Origin would be helpful for most of you.

So, both shoes are designed for beginner climbers who try to learn footwork and climbing techniques.

Overview

If you're looking for a performance, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and check out my La Sportiva Genius vs Futura or Scarpa Drago vs Furia S posts.

Shortly, if one of these shoes will be your first shoes I'd recommend to you get whatever fits and is cheap for you because you're going to destroy them in probably less than 6 months.

Origin is stiffer and toe rand isn't durable.
Tarantula is more durable and more sticker.

Quick Summary

Sizing:
- They're both designed for medium volume. You can check out Sportiva's Quick Comparison Chart and Scarpa's Family Tree.
- I already have LS Finale. So, My reference is LS Finale.
- I wear a 43 (Euro size) in street shoes and I wear a 42 in LS Finale.
- So, I tried both of them. The Tarantula fits snug and comfortable in 41.5 but 42 for the Origin.
- I can easily say that the Tarantula has a wider toe box than the Origin. By the way, my feet type is Roman feet. Many users with Greek have a great experience with those shoes.
- Therefore, My recommendation for the Tarantula, you can go down at least 1.5 sizes from your street shoe for a snug fit, but if you want comfort then go down a full size. But remember, they will stretch.
- On the other hand, for the Origin, I'd recommend you go down at least a full size (euro) for a snug fit, a 0.5 size for comfort.
Quick differences:
- The Tarantula is equipped with FriXion RS while the Origin is equipped with Scarpa Vision rubber.
- The upper material of the Tarantula is leather, but the Origin's upper is suede leather.
Quick Similarities:
- They both come with a strap closure system.
- Both have 5 mm rubber thicknesses.

Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa's Climbing Collection Structure and La Sportiva Comparison Chart.

Differences

Scarpa Origin

Understanding the climbing rubber compound is crucial because the rubber is the only thing between your feet and the surface.

The most important difference between these shoes is their rubber compound.

Even though their rubber thickness of these shoes is identical at 5 mm's, we can understand that easily why the Tarantula is the better option between these shoes because of the different rubber compound that they use.

The Tarantula is equipped with the FriXion RS whereas the Origin is equipped with the Scarpa's Vision.

Let me explain shortly the features of both compounds.

FriXion:

gives you durability, an optimum stick, and noticeable performance advantage.

Scarpa's Vision:

designed to deliver a balance of performance and resilience to the demands of a new climber's unpracticed feet.

I'd say that one of the main reasons why the tarantula is durable than the Origin is the rubber compound. According to my reasearch and experience with these shoes, and some users experience, the FriXion is better than Scarpa's Vision.

The other reason is their upper material. The Tarantula is covered up with leather while the Origin has suede leather.

Quick Tip

What's the difference between suede leather and leather?

Leather is buttery and smooth
Suede is matted and matty.
Leather is more durable because it's made from the exterior of the animal which is naturally the protective layer of the animals' skin.

Having climbing shoes which has a leather upper will tell us, also they both have unlined leather. They both definitely will stretch.

Last but not least, their technologies. As I know, and from my research and experience, the Tarantula hasn't any kind of technologies like other La Sportiva climbing shoes have but the Origin has the PAF.

What is the PAF?

The PAF stands for Pressure Absorbing Fit.
It's about the heel system, so active randing system.
The heel system with the PAF helps both spread the force of the heel tension and increase the fit of the heel.

You might want to check assembly of the Origin, if you wonder how it affects heel and Scarpa's assembly upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4).

Similarities

Scarpa Origin (Left) vs La Sportiva Tarantula (Right)

There're some remarkable similarities between those shoes.

Firstly, they both have a velcro closure system which;

allows you to easily get on and off between your climbing sessions.

Secondly, they both are slip-lasted. Wait, what's the last?

The last is a foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last give shoes their volume, toe dimensions, heel, instep height, and also width.
Most rock climbing shoes come with slip-lasted whereas some of them are board-lasted.
- Slip-lasted: Generally, the slip-lasted climbing shoes are more likely sensitive and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They get their stiffness from the midsole.

The last one is their rubber thickness which is identical at 5 mm:

It takes from sensitivity but gives the shoes more durability.

Quick Reminder

Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

Origin

Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
Last: FFX - Flat, Slightly Asymmetric
Symmetry: Slightly Asymmetric
Closure: Strap
Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm 3/4 length
Sole Rubber: 5 mm Scarpa Vision®

The Origin is designed for those looking comfortable and durable. The Origin provides easy to get on and off. It has a flat and neutral shape and also a low-angled toe box which makes it perfect for all-day use.

Pros

Comfort
Easy on and off
Durability

Cons

Edging
Smearing
Sensitivity

Tarantula

Weight: 10.23 oz (290 g)
Upper: Leather
Last: RL45
Fit: Comfort with low asymmetry
Lining: None
Midsole: 1.8 mm LaspoFlex
Sole: 5 mm FriXion® RS

The Tarantula is designed for comfort, all-day climbing. With an unlined upper, the Tarantula provides excellent moisture management. Having sticky FriXion rubber also provides sticks to plastic and rock equally as well. A highly adjustable velcro closure system adapts to lots of foot shape.

Pros

Grip
Durability
All around climbing
Easily get on and off

Cons

Edging
Sensitivity
Smearing

La Sportiva Finale vs Scarpa Helix

January 31, 2021 by Umut Can Celik

La Sportiva Finale

As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

I thought that a post devoted specifically to Scarpa Helix vs La Sportiva Finale would be helpful for most of you.

Scarpa and La Sportiva have long been compared to each other. Especially, their climbing shoes.

So, they're both neutral climbing shoes and generally are preferred by beginner climbers.

Overview

If you're looking for a performance, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and check out my La Sportiva Solution vs Testarossa and Scarpa Furia S vs Drago posts.

In short, if you're a complete newbie, and you have no idea about climbing but looking for a beginner shoe that has solid durability so you can use it without worrying about wearing out, then go with the Finale. But, you've already spent some time climbing, and you want more sensitive beginner shoes, then go with the Helix.

Finale is stiffer and more durable.
Helix is more sensitive and provides more performance.

Quick Summary

Before I recommend one of these shoes, let's clear things up.
- First, will it be your first climbing shoe?
  - If the answer is yes, go with La Sportiva Finale.
- Secondly, if you're already doing climbing for a while;
  - Then, go with Scarpa Helix to feel the rock and performance.
- Last but not least, if you're looking for a performance to do multi-pitch climbing, crack climbing, and trad climbing, go with La Sportiva Finale.
Quick differences:
- The Finale is equipped with 5 mm rubber thicknesses whereas the Helix is equipped with 3.5 mm.
Quick similarities:
- Both come with the Vibram XS Edge.
- They have a lace-up closure system.
- They're designed for all-day comfort.
Best uses:
- La Sportiva Finale: All-around, crack climbing, multi-pitch climbing, indoor climbing.
- Scarpa Helix: All-around, sport climbing, indoor climbing.

Before comparing them in detail, you might want to check Scarpa's Family Tree or La Sportiva Comparison Chart.

Differences

La Sportiva Finale

Firstly, they're from different brands. Therefore, their design and look are obviously different from each other.

But, most importantly, their rubber thicknesses are different from each other.

The Finale is equipped with a 5 mm Vibram XS Edge whereas the Helix is equipped with a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Edge.

They both take what Vibram XS Edge features. But, the gap between thicknesses (not only, but most important) determine which one is more durable.

Ten points for La Sportiva Finale which is thicker than Scarpa Helix.

Another thing that determines durability is the upper material. The Finale is equipped with leather while the Helix is equipped with suede leather.

Quick Tip

What's the difference between suede leather and leather?

Leather is buttery and smooth.
Suede is matted and matty.
Leather is more durable because it's made from the exterior of the animal which is naturally the protective layer of the animals' skin.

Another ten points for La Sportiva Finale...

Let's continue around durability which is crucial.

The last thing that I'll talk about below is their lasts.

Quick Tip-2

What is the meaning of climbing shoes last?

A last is a foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last give shoes their volume, toe dimensions, heel, instep height, and also width.

Most rock climbing shoes come with slip-lasted whereas some of them are board-lasted.

So, the Finale is slip-lasted but the Helix is board-lasted. What's the difference between them?

Slip-lasted: Generally, the climbing shoes which are slip-lasted are more likely sensitive and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They get their stiffness from the midsole.

Then, ten points for the Helix. Okay, let me sum up the final results.

The Finale takes 20 points while the Helix takes 10 points. The winner of durability is the Finale.

La Sportiva Finale has the P3 whereas Scarpa Helix has the active randing system

The P3 (Permanent Power Platform) midsole is a technology that is developed to deliver power to the sole and to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe which means that even after you smear so many times, the shape of the downturn will lose very little.

Shortly, the active randing system strives to achieve maximum sensitivity for your feet and yet still allow you good edging power.

You might want to check this out if you wonder how Scarpa Helix's assembly is created with upper (1), insole (2), active randing (3), and sole (4).

Similarities

Scarpa Helix (Left) vs La Sportiva Finale (Right)

There're two remarkable similarities between these shoes.

The first one is their closure system, as you can see in the right picture.

Both have a lace-up closure system which:

Allows you to adjust the fit of climbing shoes whatever way you want to.

The other similarity is their rubber compound. They're both equipped with the Vibram XS Edge which is:

Developed to provide maximum support edging and gives durability.

Quick Reminder

Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

You can check the video below that made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

Conclusion

Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

Helix

Weight: 7.6 oz (215 g)
Upper: 1.8 mm Suede
Last: FF - Flat Profile, Slightly Asymmetric
Closure: Lace
Midsole: Nylon 1.4 mm Full Length
Sole Rubber: 3.5 mm Vibram® XS Edge

Pros

Comfort
Sensitivity
Edging
Adjustable fit

Cons

Durability
Crack climbing
Hard to get on and off

Finale

Weight: 8.00 oz (226 g)
Last: PN 45
Construction: Slip Lasted
Upper: Leather / Microfiber
Lining: Unlined
Midsole: 1.1 mm Laspoflex with P3®
Sole: 5 mm Vibram® XS Edge

The Finale is one of the most traditional climbing shoes. With unlined leather upper for a soft comfortable fit, the Finale shines like a diamond for beginners.

Also, the Finale comes with a 5 mm Vibram XS Edge with tensioned heel rand and powerhinge for high-end edging performance. The Finale's versatility is the most impressive feature of its. And, the technology that the Finale has is the Permanent Power Platform (the P3).

Pros

Durability
Edging
All-day comfort
Adjustable fit

Cons

Sensitivity
Sport Climbing
Smearing