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Umut Can Celik

Tenaya Oasi vs Oasi LV

by

Tenaya Oasi (left) vs Tenaya Oasi LV (right)

As some of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

I thought that a post devoted specifically to Oasi vs Oasi LV would be helpful for most of you.

Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my La Sportiva Finale vs Scarpa Helix and Scarpa Origin vs La Sportiva Tarantula posts if you're a newbie.

But, if you're climbing for a long time and looking for performance-based climbing shoes, then go on.

Overview

When Tenaya designed these shoes, they are aiming for versatility and set out to create curved climbing shoes that perform on friction slabs, vertical walls, overhanging routes, and boulder problems.

Shortly, Both shoes offer similar technical features and almost the same visuality, BUT the Oasi has a wider fit and larger heel whereas the Oasi LV is designed for a narrow, female foot. You can go with both shoes if you have narrow feet, otherwise, both shoes excel in vertical, overhanging, and all kinds of bouldering.

  • Quick Tip
  • Before going into detail, I want to say that;
    • They both have the same upper which is microfiber but, the Oasi comes with lined (TXT-treated cotton) whereas the Oasi LV comes with unlined.
      • The most important difference between unlined leather and lined leather is how much they stretch. I can say that unlined leather can stretch a full size while lined leather can stretch half a size.
      • In addition to the above, whenever I tried Tenaya's climbing shoes, it's always stinky (except Tenaya Mundaka). Nevertheless, unlined leather provides more breathable climbing shoes compared to lined leather.
  • Before you go, don't forget to check Tenaya's Own Sizing Guide.

Rubber

Tenaya Oasi is a great fit for performance.

They both come with a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Grip rubber. Here, I want to talk about the importance of rubber and thicknesses.

Firstly, let's talk about Vibram XS Grip which stands out with a perfect blend of grip, edging performance, and definitely durability. It's ideal for various types of climbing which are steep routes, friction slabs, and overhanging walls.

As you can understand, these shoes provide you with precise grip, and adequate edging capability.

The other feature is thickness which can have a big impact on the sensitivity of climbing shoes.

They both come with a 3.5 mm thickness and I can say that this level of the thickness offers one of the maximum feels among climbing shoes. BUT, don't forget, it takes from durability, which means it'll wear out very quickly.

  • Technologies 
  • SXR Dynamics: Technology that increases the dynamic response of the shoe improving its ability to adapt to different rock shapes and greater precision and comfort.
  • RBRX: It improves the balance between all the performances of the shoe achieving a greater range of response and greater performance in very different situations.

    • Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Oasi

  • Upper: Microfibre
  • Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
  • Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
  • Lining: TXT treated cotton
  • Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
  • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
  • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
  • Weight: 340 gr.

    • Tenaya Oasi is designed with an aggressive downturned and asymmetrical toe box, and having XS Grip makes it better at smearing.

    You can use the Oasi for various types of climbing. It also allows you to do precise footwork, smearing, and slightly high performance with great comfort.

    Pros

    • Wider compared to LV  
    • Adjustable
    • Grip

    Cons

    • Straps no durable  
    • It can smell after prolonged use

    Oasi LV

    • Upper: Microfibre
    • Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
    • Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
    • Cover: Unlined
    • Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
    • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
    • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
    • Weight: 340 gr.

    Tenaya Oasi LV is a version of the Oasi but is designed for the anatomy of the female foot. It comes with an aggressive downturned shape, narrow heel and toe box, and comfort.

    The Oasi LV also comes with Vibram XS Grip which is for exceptional friction. The tongue of the Oasi LV provides breathability and the Draxtor Velcro closure ensures an adjustable fit.

    Pros

    • Breathability  
    • Grip
    • Aesthetically pleasing

    Cons

    • Straps no durable 
    • Narrow

    Tenaya Iati vs Mundaka

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    Tenaya Iati is on the edge!

    As some of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

    Nowadays, I've been trying Tenaya's Aerial Plus Line and posting about my experiences with these Tenaya's climbing shoes.

    Today, I thought that a post devoted specifically to Mundaka vs Iati would be helpful for most of you.

    Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my La Sportiva Tarantula vs Scarpa Origin and La Sportiva Finale vs Scarpa Helix posts if you're a newbie.

    But, if you're climbing for a long time and looking for performance-based climbing shoes, then go on.

    Overview

    Tenaya is a well-known and respected brand in the climbing shoe market. They have a reputation for high-quality, performance-oriented shoes that are favored by experienced climbers.

    In short, the Mundaka is designed to help you tackle overhanging walls and delicate moves with ease. Whether you're bouldering or working on technical routes, this is the ideal choice for maximizing sensitivity. On the other hand, the Iati is the go-to choice for sports climbers seeking versatility. The Iati excels on routes of all angles, from overhanging walls to delicate friction slabs. Whether you're tackling tough, technical climbs or just enjoying a day at the bouldering gym.

    • Mundaka is a bit sensitive.
    • Iati is more aggressive.
    • Quick Summary 
    • Differences:
      • The Mundaka is wider than the Iati.
      • The Iati has a more pointy toe box than the Mundaka.
      • The Mundaka has a partial split sole whereas the Iati has a full sole.

    Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Tenaya's own sizing guide.

    Let's dive into it.

    Differences

    Tenaya Mundaka is ready to go!

    The first and one of the main differences (in my opinion) is their sole structure.

    Tenaya Iati features a full sole whereas the Mundaka comes with a partial split sole.

    A full sole offers a stiffer platform for support. This makes it perfect for sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing or routes where edging performance is crucial. 

    The full sole help to relieve fatigue by supporting the foot, but its stiffness can impact smearing performance, as it is not as able to bend to the shape of the rock. It may also be less flexible for hooking toes onto holds on steeper ground.

    On the other hand, the partial split sole is between a full and a split sole and  offers a combination of both, making it suitable for a range of climbing styles, from bouldering to crack climbing.

    The partial sole allows for twisting, essential for performing foot jams.

    And, finally, the Mundaka offers a wider fit than the Iati, which makes it ideal for climbers who are looking for comfortable shoes. Also, the Mundaka can handle overhanging routes and boulder problems with ease.

    Despite its wider fit, the Mundaka does not sacrifice performance on lower-angle smearing.

    • Quick Reminder 

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Tenaya Iati Sizing

    Because of they are made out of microfiber and lined leather, the Iati should stretch roughly half a size. 

    I recommend sizing a half-size to a full-size down from your regular climbing shoe size.

     Go with 1-1.5 size down if you like tight. If you're looking for a bit of comfort you can go with 0.5 sizes down.

    Tenaya Mundaka Sizing

    The Tenaya Mundaka climbing shoe is designed with a level of stiffness that allows for maximum performance while climbing.

    However, to enhance the performance even further, it's recommended to downsize the shoe slightly. This may result in a reduction of comfort, but an increase in performance may be worth the trade-off.

    My street shoe size is EU 44 and I tried the Mundaka a size EU 42, and I can say that it was comfortable.

    Similarities

    Tenaya Iati comes with a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Grip

    These shoes have lots of common features and one of them is their rubber.

    You can see the other common features in the conclusion parts. In this section, I'll only talk about the rubber which is one of the most important features of climbing shoes.

    Tenaya Mundaka and Tenaya Iati both utilize Vibram's XS Grip rubber, which is a popular choice in the climbing industry known for its durable and high-performing rubber compounds.

    The 3.5 mm rubber provides a unique balance of stickiness and firmness, offering excellent traction for climbers. Unlike the more popular Vibram XS Grip 2 and XS Edge rubber, the Vibram XS Grip is stickier and softer but a little firmer.

    Its combination with the soft and downturned shape of both shoes results in exceptional performance that sets them apart from other climbing shoes.

    I know, I said "I'll only talk about the rubber" but I also want to mention their technologies.

    They both come with SXR Dynamics and RBRX which are:

    • SXR Dynamics: Technology that increases the dynamic response of the shoe improving its ability to adapt to different rock shapes and greater precision and comfort.
    • RBRX: It improves the balance between all the performances of the shoe achieving a greater range of response and greater performance in very different situations.

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Mundaka

    • Upper: Microfibre
    • Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
    • Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
    • Lining: TXT treated cotton
    • Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
    • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
    • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
    • Weight: 340 gr.

    Tenaya Mundaka is designed to provide a high level of sensitivity and comfort for the climber. This combination of sensitivity and comfort enhances the overall performance of the shoe on the rock that making it a great option for climbers of all levels.

    It's also designed to provide exceptional support when climbing on difficult surfaces. The Mundaka's downturned design allows for a greater amount of power to be directed towards the big toe that providing the climber with more control and stability while edging.

    Pros

    • Comfortable  
    • Edging
    • Sensitivity

    Cons

    • Stiffness 
    • Dead spot in the arch

    IATI

    • Upper: Microfibre & Leather
    • Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
    • Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
    • Lining: TXT treated cotton
    • Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
    • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
    • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
    • Weight: 340 gr.

    Tenaya Iati is a high-performance climbing shoe, and it is known for its durability and long-lasting performance.

    The Tenaya Iati is designed to be aggressive and excels at technical climbing and bouldering, with an asymmetric and downturned toe box that is optimized for precise footwork on steep and overhanging routes and a medium-to-narrow fit.

    Pros

    • Adjustable straps  
    • All-around
    • Grip
    • Breathable

    Cons

    • The heel is a bit shallow  
    • Smearing

    Tenaya Mundaka vs Oasi

    by

    Tenaya Mundaka is good at sport climbing

    As some of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

    I thought that a post devoted specifically to Oasi vs Mundaka would be helpful for most of you.

    Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my  Scarpa Origin vs Force V and La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Finale posts if you're a newbie.

    But, if you're climbing for a long time and looking for performance-based climbing shoes, then go on.

    Overview

    Tenaya is a well-known and respected brand in the climbing shoe market. They have a reputation for high-quality, performance-oriented shoes that are favored by experienced climbers.

    Both shoes are known for their aggressive design and precise fit but they do have some differences that make them better suited for different types of climbing.

    In short, the Mundaka is an excellent choice with its aggressive shape and powerful edging capabilities for sport and steep bouldering climbers, BUT If you prefer a more versatile climbing shoe that can handle different types of climbing, I'd recommend you to go with The Oasi.

    Mundaka is more likely for wider feet.
    Oasi is better at heel hooking.

    • Quick Summary 
    • Differences:
      • The front of the Mundaka does feel slightly wider than the Oasi.
      • The Mundaka is definitely the widest-fitting climbing shoe in Tenaya's Aerial Plus Line.
      • The Mundaka is more sensitive than the Oasi.
      • The toe box of Mundaka is wider than the Oasi's.
      • The heel of Mundaka is a bit sloppy than the Oasi.
      • The Mundaka has more rubber on top of the toe box.
      • The Oasi is a bit softer than the Mundaka.
      • The Mundaka edging is better than the Oasi.
    • Recommended use:
      • Tenaya Mundaka is a great choice if you're going to plan to go to overhanging walls and routes that require delicate moves and great sensitivity.
      • Tenaya Oasi is perfect to go if you're generally doing gym bouldering, overhanging and vertical routes.
    • PS: Alex Megos did his (and the world's) first 9a onsight with Tenaya Oasi!

    Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Tenaya's own sizing guide.

    Let's dive into it.

    RUBBER

    Tenaya Oasi is ready to go.

    One of the key features that sets these shoes apart is the use of a 3.5 mm Vibram's XS Grip rubber. It is one of the most popular rubbers in the climbing industry which is known for their high-performing rubber compounds that are durable and provide excellent grip.

    The Vibram XS Grip rubber is the predecessor to Vibram's more popular XS Grip 2 and XS Edge rubbers which are commonly used in many modern climbing shoes.

    Tenaya Mundaka and Oasi utilize it to its full potential. The Vibram XS Grip rubber offers a unique balance of stickiness and firmness which provides climbers with a level of traction that is not found in other rubbers.

    The Vibram XS Grip is noticeably stickier and softer than the Vibram XS Edge but a little firmer than the Vibram XS Grip 2.

    The use of Vibram XS Grip rubber for both shoes, combined with their soft and downturned shape provides a level of performance that is not found in other climbing shoes. 

    The Vibram XS Grip rubber provides a unique balance of stickiness and firmness that making it a perfect fit for the downturned and soft Tenaya Mundaka and Tenaya Oasi climbing shoes.

    • Quick Reminder 

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    TOE BOX

    Tenaya Mundaka is good at edging. 

    The Tenaya Oasi is designed with comfort in mind and is one of the key features that contribute to this roomy toe box. The toe box is the front part of the shoe that surrounds and protects the toes.

    When climbing, having a toe box that is too small can cause discomfort as it can make the toes feel cramped and scrunched up. This can lead to pain and difficulty in maintaining proper technique on the climb.

    The Tenaya Oasi's toe box is designed to provide ample room for the toes to flex out that allowing for greater flexibility and reducing discomfort.

    On the other hand, the Tenaya Mundaka is designed to provide support in addition to comfort. The Mundaka has a pretty good downturn and most of its support is derived from the forced curve of the shoe while also providing a really solid toe box that can give added support.

    • Technologies 
  • SXR Dynamics: Technology that increases the dynamic response of the shoe improving its ability to adapt to different rock shapes and greater precision and comfort.
  • RBRX: It improves the balance between all the performances of the shoe achieving a greater range of response and greater performance in very different situations.

    • The flat-toe box allows the toes to flatten out and get a good purchase on the rock face. This added flatness is not commonly found in most climbing shoes, which only rely on the rigidity of the climbing shoe to give support on small edges.

    This unique feature of the Tenaya Mundaka allows better control and precision on small edges and provides added support for the toes.

    In conclusion, both the Tenaya Oasi and Tenaya Mundaka climbing shoes are designed with specific features providing to the needs and preferences of different climbers.

    The Tenaya Oasi has a roomy toe box that allows for greater flexibility and reduces discomfort whereas the Tenaya Mundaka has a flat toe box that provides added support and precision with small edges. 

     Tenaya Mundaka has an extra rubber over toe. 

    Also, the Tenaya Mundaka climbing shoe is designed to enhance the performance of the toe hooking technique. It features an extended rubber coverage over the toes which serves to provide additional grip and support for this movement.

    The added rubber coverage on the toes increases the surface area for the toes to hook onto the climbing surface which results in more control and stability for the climber.

    This design feature allows the climber to perform the toe hooking technique more effectively that giving them an advantage when climbing challenging routes. 

    The extended rubber coverage over toes is a great feature for climbers who rely on toe hooking techniques for certain moves or to reach certain holds.

    HEEL

    Good session with my Tenaya Oasi

    The Tenaya Oasi is designed with a low heel which provides a number of benefits for the wearer. One of the main benefits is that it allows for a better fit due to the lower volume of the heel.

    When the heel is lower, there is less material for the foot to slip around in which results in a more secure and comfortable fit. This is important for climbers as ill-fitting shoes can often lead to discomfort  which can affect performance and make climbing more difficult.

    The lower heel of the Tenaya Oasi also allows for greater precision and control when performing certain techniques, such as heel hooking.

    On the other hand, the Tenaya Mundaka is not as well suited for heel hooking as the Oasi. The heel of the Mundaka is relatively soft and not very rigid which may cause slipping around in the heel. This can affect the shoe's ability to perform heel hooking.

    Additionally, the angle of the heel on the Mundaka is a little awkward, which makes it less conducive to heel hooking.

    This might be a problem for some climbers who rely on heel hooking to perform certain moves or to reach certain holds. The softness of the heel might provide more comfort but it might affect the performance of heel hooking.

    Tenaya Mundaka Sizing

    The Tenaya Mundaka climbing shoe is designed with a level of stiffness that allows for maximum performance while climbing.

    However, to enhance the performance even further, it's recommended to downsize the shoe slightly. This may result in a reduction of comfort, but an increase in performance may be worth the trade-off.

    My street shoe size is EU 44 and I tried the Mundaka a size EU 42, and I can say that it was comfortable.

    Tenaya Oasi Sizing

    As I said about my street shoe above, I tried also the Oasi a size EU42, and it was not too comfortable but also it was not too tight. 

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Oasi

  • Upper: Microfibre
  • Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
  • Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
  • Lining: TXT treated cotton
  • Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
  • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
  • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
  • Weight: 340 gr.

    • Tenaya Oasi is designed with an aggressive downturned and asymmetrical toe box, and having XS Grip makes it better at smearing.

    You can use the Oasi for various types of climbing. It also allows you to do precise footwork, smearing, and slightly high performance with great comfort.

    Pros

    • Adjustable   
    • Grip
    • Heel Fit

    Cons

    • Straps no durable  
    • It can start to smell after prolonged use

    Mundaka

    • Upper: Microfibre
    • Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
    • Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
    • Lining: TXT treated cotton
    • Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
    • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
    • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
    • Weight: 340 gr.

    Tenaya Mundaka is designed to provide a high level of sensitivity and comfort for the climber. This combination of sensitivity and comfort enhances the overall performance of the shoe on the rock making it a great option for climbers of all levels.

    It's also designed to provide exceptional support when climbing on difficult surfaces. The Mundaka's downturned design allows for a greater amount of power to be directed towards the big toe providing the climber with more control and stability while edging.

    Pros

    • Great at edging  
    • Comfort
    • Toe hook

    Cons

    • Too soft  
    • Dead spot in the arch

    Tenaya Mastia vs Oasi

    by

    Tenaya Mastia's velcro closure provides easy on and off

    As some of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

    After trying the Tenaya Tarifa and comparing it to the Oasi, I decided to go with another Tenaya Aerial Plus line which is Tenaya Mastia. Then I thought that it would be a great idea to publish a post around Tenaya Oasi vs Mastia, so here you go.

    Overview

    First of all, if you're a newbie, I'd recommend you stop reading this post and visit my La Sportiva Tarantulace vs Finale or La Sportiva Tarantula vs Tarantulace posts.

    But, if you're at least an intermediate, then read on.

    Shortly, both shoes are designed for high performance. BUT, if you're planning to go to routes that require proper edging, and toe/heel hook, I'd recommend the Mastia. Otherwise, go with the Oasi.

    Mastia is a bit wider and more sensitive.
    Oasi is softer.

    • Quick Summary 
    • Differences:
      • Tenaya Mastia has a split sole whereas Tenaya Oasi has a partial split sole.
      • The Mastia has more rubber on top of the toes than the Oasi.
      • The Mastia has a slightly wider heel than the Oasi.
      • Both have a velcro closure system but the Mastia has a more simple velcro strap.
      • The Mastia is more comfortable than the Oasi.
      • As I said, both shoes are designed for high performance. Nevertheless, the Mastia is more precise with the pointer toe box.
      • The Mastia is more breathable than the Oasi.

    Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Tenaya's own sizing guide.

    Let's dive into it.

    Differences

    Partial Split Sole (the Oasi) vs Split Sole (the Mastia)

    The first difference that I want to talk about which you can see in the picture is sole type.

    The Oasi has a partial split sole whereas the Mastia has a split sole. What are the differences? 

    A partial split sole is kind of a combination of a full sole and a split sole. It offers some of the benefits of both types of soles and is often found on all-around climbing shoes.

    It provides a balance of support and flexibility, making it a good choice for climbers who want a climbing shoe that can perform well across a range of disciplines, such as bouldering.  This type of sole allows the foot to twist slightly, which is important when performing foot jams.

    A split sole is designed for maximum flexibility. It is often found on bouldering-specific shoes and allows the sole to bend and flex into any shape required.

    It offers almost no support (from the midsole) to the foot, which means the climber has to do all work. Luckily, the Mastia has a 3.5 mm rubber (like the Oasi) outsole, combined with a five-micro-layer insole, which helps to transmit force effectively in all climbing situations, allowing the climber to have a better connection with the rock.

    Tenaya Mastia (left) vs Tenaya Oasi (right)

    The second difference which I want to talk about is the amount of rubber on top of the toes.

    The Mastia climbing shoe features a slightly extended rubber coverage over the toes. This added rubber helps to provide extra grip and support for the toe hooking technique, allowing the climber to perform this movement more effectively.

    Having a little bit more rubber over the top of the toes, allows the climber to have more surface area to hook and secure their toes onto the climbing surface, giving them more control and stability while climbing.

    The other difference is also you can see in the picture above, velcro type:

    • The Mastia climbing shoe features a single velcro strap closure system, which is considered to be more straightforward and easy to use compared to the double-strap system featured on the Tenaya Oasi.
    • While both closure systems are effective in providing a secure fit for the climber, Mastia's single strap system is less complex, which allows for a more efficient and quicker adjustment during the climbing session.
    • Despite the differences in the closure system, both the Mastia and Oasi are able to provide a snug and personalized fit for the climber, ensuring optimal performance and comfort during the climb.

    And, finally, the Mastia has a wider forefoot than the Oasi.

    • Quick Reminder 

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Tenaya Mastia Sizing

    The Mastia has similar sizing as the rest of the Aerial Plus line of Tenaya. It can stretch a half size. 

    My street shoe size is EU 44 and I tried the Mastia a size EU 42, and I can say that it was comfortable.

    Tenaya Oasi Sizing

    As I said about my street shoe above, I tried also the Oasi a size EU42, and it was not too comfortable but also it was not too tight. 

    Similarities

    After a good session with my Tenaya Mastia

    Let's talk about similarities.

    Both the Tenaya Oasi and Mastia climbing shoes share similar technical specifications, including a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Grip rubber sole that offers excellent grip and durability.

    The Vibram XS Grip is a well-known rubber compound used in climbing shoes, known for its high performance and ability to provide excellent traction on a variety of surfaces.

    Its unique micro-texture allows for sticking to small holds and edges, making it ideal for sport climbing and bouldering. Additionally, the rubber is durable and long lasting, maintaining its grip and performance even after prolonged use.

    In terms of technology, both shoes feature SXR Dynamics and RBRX. SXR Dynamics is a technology that improves the climbing shoe's dynamic response, allowing for better adaption to different rock shapes and greater precision and comfort.

    RBRX, on the other hand, improves the balance between all the shoe's performance, achieving a greater range of response and improved performance in various situations.

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Oasi

  • Upper: Microfibre
  • Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
  • Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
  • Lining: TXT treated cotton
  • Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
  • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
  • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
  • Weight: 340 gr.

    • The Tenaya Oasi is a high-performance climbing shoe known for its versatility and comfort.

    The Tenaya Oasi is designed to be versatile and comfortable for all-day climbing and multi-pitch climbing, with a more neutral and symmetric toe box that is optimized for a relaxed and comfortable fit on long routes.

    The shoe also features a leather upper that is designed to withstand the rigors of climbing and provide long-lasting performance. The Oasi has a medium fit and is suitable for most foot shapes.

    Pros

    • Adjustable
    • Grip
    • Sensitive

    Cons

    • Straps no durable  
    • Durability
    • It can start to smell after prolonged use

    Mastia

    • Upper: Microfibre
    • Closure System: Velcro
    • Tongue: Highly breathable
    • Lining: Without lining
    • Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
    • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
    • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
    • Weight: 330 gr.

    The Tenaya Mastia is designed with modern aggressive climbing in mind. It features a rubberized heel, high friction rubber on the toes and in-step, a single velcro strap, and a soft midsole.

    The design is not only effective but also well thought-out, with every detail carefully crafted to provide a comfortable and reliable climbing experience.

    The velcro strap on the Mastia is sturdy yet soft, ensuring it does not dig into the foot even when closed tightly. Some may question the ability of a single velcro strap to keep the shoe securely in place, but in practice, the Mastia stays on so reliably that it hardly crosses the mind of the wearer. The Mastia's design and construction are so effective that one can focus on climbing rather than worrying about the shoe's fit.

    Pros

    • Comfort  
    • Precise feeling / pointed toebox
    • Sensitive
    • Breathable

    Cons

    • Not pretty 
    • Wears out too soon
    • Strap no durable

    Tenaya Oasi vs Tarifa

    by

    My Tenaya Tarifa is hanging

    As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now. 

    I thought that a post devoted specifically to Tenaya Tarifa vs Oasi would be helpful for most of you.

    Let's take a closer look at the Oasi and Tarifa, two models that have a lot in common but also some key differences.

    Both shoes are built on the same last and use the same rubber compound and thicknesses. BUT,  the closure system, shoe volume, and rubber over the top of the toes set them apart.

    Overview

    Before you read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my La Sportiva Finale vs Tarantulace and Scarpa Origin vs Helix posts if you're a newbie.

    Otherwise, if you're at least intermediate, then go on.

    In Short, both shoes are designed for high performance, and you can use them for bouldering, sport climbing, and competitive climbing. BUT, if you want to do proper toe hooks, I'd recommend you go with the Tarifa. Otherwise, go with the Oasi.

    Tarifa is slightly stiffer.
    Oasi is wider in the forefoot.

    • Quick Summary 
    • Differences:
      • The Tarifa is slightly stiffer in the forefoot and heel.
      • The Tarifa has a little more rubber over the top of the toes.
      • The Tarifa has a lace-up closure system whereas the Oasi has a velcro closure system.
      • The Tarifa is much narrow in the forefoot than the Oasi.
    • Performance:
      • Tenaya Oasi:  Overhanging routes or vertical and all kinds of bouldering, face climbing.
      • Tenaya Tarifa: Sport climbing on the rock of all angles, steep terrain, and overhanging routes.

    Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Tenaya's own sizing guide.

    Let's dive into it.

    Differences

    More rubber over the top of the toes can be seen clearly (Left: Tarifa, Right: Oasi)

    The first big difference is obviously their closure system.

    As you can see in the picture, the Oasi has a velcro closure system whereas the Tarifa has a lace-up closure system. Which way does the closure system affect the climbing shoes?

    The most important factor to consider when deciding between velcro and lace climbing shoes is the type of climbing that will be performed.

    Yes, I know that I said that both shoes provide you with high performance in same type of climbing because they're really quality and designed for performance.

    BUT sometimes some climbing styles require a longer time on the rock like trad climbing and multi-pitch climbing. In this case, it's essential to have a shoe that gives you more security. You can go with a lace-up closure system without being afraid of undoing your closure system.

    Also, I'd recommend the lace-up closure system for crack climbing. Because velcro straps are easily undone during the adventure of crack climbing.

    What's next? Yes, you can clearly see in the above picture that the Tarifa has a little bit more rubber over the top of the toes. This little rubber helps you to do a better toe hook, believe me.

    The final difference I can say is that the Oasi is much wider in the forefoot. The Oasi will be the better choice if you have a higher volume of feet.

    • Quick Reminder 

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Tenaya Tarifa and Oasi Sizing

    I wear a 44 in street shoes (10.5 USM), I tried both shoes in 43 and I can say it's pretty comfortable. BUT, you can go 42 for a tighter fit.

    Similarities

    The Tenaya Oasi is good at sport climbing

    As I said at the beginning of this post, both shoes have the same technical specs.

    They both come with a 3.5 mm Vibram XS Grip which is a rubber compound used in climbing shoes to provide excellent grip and durability. Known for its high performance, the Vibram XS Grip is a popular choice among climbers of all levels.

    Let me shortly inform one of the main benefits of the Vibram XS Grip which is its ability to provide excellent traction on a variety of surfaces. The rubber compound has a unique micro-texture that allows it to stick to small holds and edges, making it ideal for sport climbing and bouldering.

    Additionally, the rubber is durable and long-lasting, which means that it will maintain grip and performance even after prolonged use.

    You can see the other technical specs which are the same in the conclusion section.

    What I want to talk about is their technologies;

    • SXR Dynamics: Technology that increases the dynamic response of the shoe improving its ability to adapt to different rock shapes and greater precision and comfort.
    • RBRX: It improves the balance between all the performances of the shoe achieving a greater range of response and greater performance in very different situations.         

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Oasi

  • Upper: Microfibre
  • Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
  • Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
  • Lining: TXT treated cotton
  • Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
  • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
  • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
  • Weight: 340 gr.

    • The Tenaya Oasi is a high-performance climbing shoe known for its versatility and comfort.

    The Tenaya Oasi is designed to be versatile and comfortable for all-day climbing and multi-pitch climbing, with a more neutral and symmetric toe box that is optimized for a relaxed and comfortable fit on long routes.

     The shoe also features a leather upper that is designed to withstand the rigors of climbing and provide long-lasting performance. The Oasi has a medium fit and is suitable for most foot shapes.

    Pros

    • Adjustable  
    • Grip
    • Sensitive
    • Comfort

    Cons

    • Straps no durable  
    • Durability
    • It can start to smell after prolonged use

    Tarifa

    • Upper: Microfibre
    • Closure System: Lacing
    • Tongue: Two-layer bellows with perforations
    • Lining: TXT treated cotton
    • Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
    • Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
    • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
    • Weight: 340 gr.

    Tenaya Tarifa is n enough aggressive and performance-oriented climbing shoe. Designed for steep sport climbing and overhanging routes, the Tarifa is a favorite among advanced climbers looking for a shoe that can handle the most demanding routes.

    Its downturned and highly asymmetric shape gives the shoe excellent power and precision on small holds, making it ideal for various of climbing routes.

    Pros

    • Good at edging  
    • Sensitive
    • Fits well on narrow feets

    Cons

    • It can start to smell after prolonged use 
    • Durability