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Umut Can Celik

Evolv Zenist vs Shaman

by

Evolv Zenist shows off.

As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

Over the years, I have explored numerous brands such as La Sportiva, Scarpa, Tenaya, and most recently, Evolv's Evo Lab-Line.

I thought that a post devoted specifically to Evolv Shaman vs Zenist would be helpful for most of you since I've tried both shoes recently.

If you are new to climbing, I recommend checking out my previous posts on Scarpa Helix vs La Sportiva Finale and Scarpa Origin vs Helix before diving into this comparison.

However, if you are an experienced climber in search of performance-driven shoes, please read on.

In summary, the Evolv Shaman's versatile design excels in bouldering on diverse rock types, multi-pitch technical routes, and gym climbing, thanks to its aggressive profile and tensioned heel rand that provide power and support for small edges and off-vertical angles. On the other hand, the Evolv Zenist, with its heightened sensitivity and feedback, is ideal for competition climbing, tackling modern gym style, smeary problems, and bouldering scenarios where precise foot placements and delicate heel and toe hooks are crucial.

  • Quick Summary 
  • Similarities:
    • Both shoes have an aggressive profile for optimal performance on various rock surfaces and climbing angles.
    • Both feature a vegan-friendly synthetic upper (Synthratek VX) that minimizes stretching over time.
    • Both utilize the 4.2mm TRAX® SAS outsole for excellent friction and maximum durability.
    • Both incorporate the Love Bump midsole, which fills dead space under the toes and directs energy toward the edging surface.
    • Both are equipped with the Knuckle Box for added comfort and space for the big-toe knuckle.
    • Both shoes have a VTR (Variable Thickness Rand) system that reduces pressure points and hot spots around the foot, while also providing increased durability in high-wear zones.
    • Both the Evolv Shaman and Zenist cater to climbers who require a balance of performance, comfort, and precision in their climbing shoes.
  • Differences:
    • The Shaman features a tensioned heel rand that provides power and support for small edges and off-vertical angles, while the Zenist offers a rubber midsole that strikes the perfect balance between rigidity and sensitivity.
    • The Shaman has a three-strap closure system for a supportive and secure fit, while the Zenist has a single-strap closure system.
    • The Zenist is a more downturned shoe than the Shaman.
    • The Zenist has a flatter toe box than the Shaman.
    • The Shaman is narrower than the Zenist.
  • Usage:
    • Evolv Zenist: Bouldering on modern gym style, smeary problems that require powerful body positions and all parts of the shoe.
    • Evolv Shaman: Bouldering on all types of rock, multi-pitch technical routes, and gym climbing of all types.
Before talking about the details of these shoes, you might want to check the "Shoe Comparison Info Table" below which I've created according to information that I collected from Evolv. Before checking the comparison table, let me tell you how you evaluate;
  • Camber (Downturned Shape): The camber of the shoe determines how aggressive or neutral a shoe will feel and what type of climbing shoe is better for.
    A high-camber (5-star) shoe will put your foot in a downward curled position better for overhanging climbs or putting more power on the toe. A flat (1-star) shoe will be more comfortable for long climbs and smearing.
  • Stiffness / Sensitive: Stiffness and sensitivity is determined by the type and thickness of the midsole and the softness and thickness of the rubber. A stiff shoe will support more weight on a smaller area with less "feel" when edging and a softer and more sensitive shoe will allow the climber to feel the rock beneath the feet. A stiff shoe would be a 5 star whereas a sensitive shoe would be a 1 star.
  • Downturned Toe: A downturned toe will put the big toe in a curled position to allow the climber to either climb steeper angles by pulling on the hold. A flat shoe (1-star) will keep your toes fairly flat while a downturned-toe high-performance shoe (5-star) will pre-curl your big toe when put on.
  • Width: Evolv classifies their shoes by wide, medium, and narrow forefoot fits. The narrow shoes will also have a lower overall volume in the forefoot and heel and the wider shoes will typically have a higher volume in the forefoot and instep. The narrow shoes would be 3 stars whereas the wide shoes would be 1 star.
Evolv Zenist

Camber

Downturned toe

Stıffness

wıdth

Evolv Shaman

camber

Downturned toe

stıffness

wıdth

Let's dive into it!

Rubber

Evolv Shaman is stiff and ready.

The Evolv Shaman and Zenist both utilize the 4.2mm TRAX® SAS outsole, a high-quality rubber engineered to offer the best friction while maintaining maximum durability.

This rubber strikes an optimal balance between stickiness and edging power, making it suitable for various climbing styles and rock surfaces.

TRAX® SAS rubber is formulated to excel in a broad range of temperatures and is well-known for its ability to retain grip on both indoor and outdoor climbing surfaces.

Additionally, both shoes feature the Molded VTR system (Variable Thickness Rand), which strategically places thinner rand rubber in areas to minimize pressure points and hot spots around the foot.

Thicker rubber is used in high-wear zones near the toe for increased durability and performance.

This intelligent design ensures that climbers can rely on the rubber in these shoes for consistent, dependable performance throughout their climbing sessions.

  • Their Technologies 

Evolv Shaman comes with Love Bump & Knuckle Box

  • Knuckle Box: Makes room for your big toe knuckle to rest in a curled position without having to push fabric and rubber out of the way which causes hot spots in other shoes.

  • Love Bump: Upon slipping your foot into the toe box of your shoes, the Love Bump will be there to support your toes as they curl into a crimped position.

    The design feature offers the necessary performance for sticking to even the tiniest edges while simultaneously providing toe support to minimize fatigue.

    These two features work in parallel to eliminate dead space under your toes and create a comfortable and powerful sensation out of the box! Please visit the Evolv website to understand more about how these features work.

    • Evolv Shaman Sizing

    For optimal comfort and performance, consider choosing your street shoe size for a performance fit or going half a size up for a more casual fit, keeping in mind that the shoe may stretch up to half a size after breaking in.

    • Quick Reminder 

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below that was made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Evolv Zenist Sizing

    When choosing the Evolv climbing shoes, follow the brand's size guide for optimal comfort and performance: select a half size down for comfort or your street shoe size for a performance fit.

    These shoes excel in heel hooking on slopers and compression-style climb, and are suitable for climbers with normal to wide toe boxes and an Egyptian-style foot shape. 

    The Evolv shoes perform impressively on small slopey footholds and outdoor granite boulders, making them a versatile option for various climbing situations.

    To get the most out of your climbing experience, consider the importance of sizing, heel hooking capabilities, and toe box compatibility.

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Evolv Zenist

    • Closure: Straps
    • Midsole: MX-R:1.0mm half-length rubber midsole, Love Bump
    • Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
    • Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
    • Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
    • Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
    • Weight: 9 oz per shoe (255 gr)

    Evolv Zenist is a highly sensitive and soft climbing shoe, ideal for indoor climbing and modern smeary gym problems. Its exceptional smearing capabilities and flexibility allow for versatile foot movements and superior toe-hooking performance. 

    The Zenist is particularly suited for competition-style climbing and excels at handling big-volume holds, making it an excellent choice for climbers seeking a responsive and comfortable shoe for dynamic indoor bouldering sessions.

    Pros

    • Smearing  
    • Sensitivity
    • Toe-hooking

    Cons

    • Stiffness  
    • Heel fit

    Evolv Shaman

  • Liner: Unlined
  • Midsole: MX-P: 1.6 mm Half-Length, Love Bump
  • Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
  • Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
  • Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
  • Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
  • Weight: 9.5 oz per shoe (269 gr)

    • Evolv Shaman is a high-performance climbing shoe designed for aggressive, steep, overhanging routes. While its unique features, such as the Love Bump and Knuckle Box, offer advantages for some climbers, they may not be suitable for everyone.

    The Shaman's softer rubber and the blunter toe may limit its edging ability and sensitivity compared to other high-end models. Ultimately, the ideal climbing shoe depends on personal preference and the specific climbing challenges you face.

    Pros

    • Edging  
    • Performance
    • Comfortable
    • Stiffness

    Cons

    • Sensitivity  
    • Smearing

    Evolv Shaman vs Phantom

    by

    Evolv Phantom is good at gym climbing.

    As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

    I have tried lots of climbing shoe brands since this time such as La Sportiva, Scarpa, and Tenaya, and nowadays I've been trying Evolv's Evo Lab-Line and posting about my experiences with these Evolv's climbing shoes.

    I thought that a post devoted specifically to Evolv Phantom vs Shaman would be helpful for most of you since I've tried both shoes recently.

    Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my Scarpa Helix vs La Sportiva Finale and Scarpa Origin vs Helix posts if you're a newbie.

    But, if you're climbing for a while and looking for performance-based climbing shoes, then go on.

    In short, The Shaman's aggressive profile makes it ideal for bouldering on various rock types, multi-pitch technical routes, and gym climbing. The tensioned heel rand ensures power and support for small edges and off-vertical angles. Meanwhile, the Phantom shines on steep angles and is perfect for bouldering, gym climbing on modern features, and steep single-pitch routes.

    • Quick Summary 
    • Similarities:
      • Both shoes feature a vegan-friendly synthetic upper (Synthratek VX) that offers durability and minimal stretch over time.
      • The Shaman and Phantom both have an aggressive downturned toe profile, which enhances performance and allows for pulling, and toe hooking.
      • Both climbing shoes utilize a 4.2mm TRAX® SAS outsole that provides the best friction and maximum durability.
      • The Shaman and Phantom are equipped with Evolv's Variable Thickness Rand (VTR) system, which uses thinner rand rubber in areas to reduce pressure points and hot spots, as well as thicker rubber in high-wear zones near the toe for increased durability and performance.
      • Both shoes come with a velcro closure system.
    • Differences:
      • The Shaman is designed for versatile climbers who need a balance of performance and comfort, while the Phantom is tailored for technical climbers who require equal sensitivity and power from their climbing shoes.
      • The Shaman boasts a tensioned heel rand that provides power and support on small edges while remaining flexible for off-vertical angles. The Phantom's heel features the Dark Spine S midsole, which helps drive power through the foot to the toe box while maintaining sensitivity for small features.
      • The Shaman utilizes a three-strap closure system for a supportive and powerful fit, while the Phantom features a six-loop Compression Closure System (CCS) connected by a single pull Velcro tab for a snug fit similar to a lace-up shoe with easy adjustability.
    • Usage:
      • Evolv Shaman: Bouldering, multi-pitch technical routes, gym climbing.
      • Evolv Phantom: Bouldering, gym climbing on modern features, steep single-pitch routes.

    Before talking about the details of these shoes, you might want to check the "Shoe Comparison Info Table" below which I've created according to information that I collected from Evolv. Before checking the comparison table, let me tell you how you evaluate;

    • Camber (Downturned Shape): The camber of the shoe determines how aggressive or neutral a shoe will feel and what type of climbing shoe is better for. A high-camber (5-star) shoe will put your foot in a downward curled position better for overhanging climbs or putting more power on the toe. A flat (1-star) shoe will be more comfortable for long climbs and smearing.
    • Stiffness / Sensitive: Stiffness and sensitivity is determined by the type and thickness of the midsole and the softness and thickness of the rubber. A stiff shoe will support more weight on a smaller area with less "feel" when edging and a softer and more sensitive shoe will allow the climber to feel the rock beneath the feet. A stiff shoe would be a 5 star whereas a sensitive shoe would be 1 star.
    • Downturned Toe: A downturned toe will put the big toe in a curled position to allow the climber to either climb steeper angles by pulling on the hold. A flat shoe (1-star) will keep your toes fairly flat while a downturned-toe high-performance shoe (5-star) will pre-curl your big toe when put on.
    • Width: Evolv classifies their shoes by wide, medium, and narrow forefoot fits. The narrow shoes will also have a lower overall volume in the forefoot and heel and the wider shoes will typically have a higher volume in the forefoot and instep. The narrow shoes would be 3 stars whereas the wide shoes would be 1 star.
    Evolv Shaman

    Camber

    Downturned toe

    Stıffness

    wıdth

    Evolv Phantom

    camber

    Downturned toe

    stıffness

    wıdth

    Let's dive into it!

    Rubber

    Evolv Phantom is on duty!

    The rubber used in both the Evolv Shaman and Evolv Phantom is the TRAX® SAS outsole, which is 4.2mm thick. 

    This high-quality rubber is designed to provide the best possible friction while ensuring maximum durability. It offers a balance of stickiness and edging power, making it suitable for various climbing styles and rock surfaces.

    The TRAX® SAS rubber is formulated to perform well in a wide range of temperatures and is well-regarded for its ability to maintain grip on both indoor and outdoor climbing surfaces.

     In addition, both shoes feature the Molded VTR system (Variable Thickness Rand), which places thinner rand rubber in areas to reduce pressure points and hot spots around the foot, as well as thicker rubber in high-wear zones near the toe for enhanced durability and performance.

     This thoughtful design ensures that climbers can trust the rubber on these shoes to provide consistent, reliable performance throughout their climbing sessions.

    • Their Technologies 

    Evolv Shaman comes with Love Bump & Knuckle Box

  • Knuckle Box: Makes room for your big toe knuckle to rest in a curled position without having to push fabric and rubber out of the way which causes hot spots in other shoes.

  • Love Bump: Upon slipping your foot into the toe box of your shoes, the Love Bump will be there to support your toes as they curl into a crimped position. The design feature offers the necessary performance for sticking to even the tiniest edges while simultaneously providing toe support to minimize fatigue.

    These two features work in parallel to eliminate dead space under your toes and create a comfortable and powerful sensation out of the box! Please visit the Evolv website to understand more about how these features work.

    • The other technology that I'd like to mention is Dark Spine which only the Phantom has. Dark Spine is a heel midsole that protects the Calcaneus bone while heel hooking and helps lock the heel into the shoe.

    • Quick Reminder 

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below that was made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Evolv Shaman Sizing

    After a good session, Evolv Shaman. 

    The Evolv Shaman is renowned for its exceptional comfort as a high-performance climbing shoe, making it a popular choice among climbers.

     The split tongue not only allows for easy on and off but also contributes to the shoe's remarkable comfort, even when the Velcro straps are tightly fastened. The synthetic upper features a suede-like texture, further enhancing the overall comfort.

    As for sizing, the Shaman is recommended for climbers with narrow to medium feet due to its fairly wide toe box. 

    Evolv suggests choosing your street shoe size for a performance fit or going half a size up for a more casual fit. Keep in mind that like all climbing shoes, the Shaman will break in and potentially stretch up to half-size after a few sessions. 

    The shoe's comfort is further accentuated by its narrow-medium fit and the Love Bump, which keeps your toe in a powerful position without the need for a tight heel pressing into your Achilles. 

    The low-profile Velcro straps remain unnoticeable during crack jams, slab flexing, and smearing. To achieve optimal comfort and performance, consider sizing the Shaman to your street shoe size or even half a size up.

    Evolv Phantom Sizing

    The Evolv Phantom offers a comfortable fit for sport climbing and warmer environments when sized to your street shoe size. For a performance-oriented bouldering fit, it's advised to go down half a size, with women potentially needing to drop more than half a size. 

    The Phantom's abundant rubber coverage ensures minimal stretch throughout the shoe. One of its standout features is the innovative closure system, which consists of six loops connected to a single pull Velcro tab. 

    This design delivers the snug fit of a lace-up shoe while allowing for quick and easy adjustments. The closure system impressively molds the shoe to your arch and heel, effectively eliminating any hot spots and ensuring optimal comfort during your climbs.

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Evolv Phantom

    • Closure: Straps
    • Midsole: MX-P: 1.6mm, AVT & TPS RUBBER, Love Bump
    • Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
    • Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
    • Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
    • Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
    • Weight: 9 oz per shoe (255 gr)

    Evolv Phantom is a powerful and sensitive climbing shoe designed for outdoor climbing and steep boulder problems. Its stiff construction provides excellent support on small holds, while its aggressive profile ensures your foot is always in a power position. 

    The Phantom's well-fitted heel and comfortable break-in period make it a solid choice for climbers seeking a high-performance shoe that delivers both stability and precision on challenging outdoor routes.

    Pros

    • Adjustable fit 
    • Edging
    • Heel hook

    Cons

    • Smearing  

    Evolv Shaman

  • Liner: Unlined
  • Midsole: MX-P: 1.6 mm Half-Length, Love Bump
  • Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
  • Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
  • Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
  • Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
  • Weight: 9.5 oz per shoe (269 gr)

    • Evolv Shaman is a high-performance climbing shoe designed for aggressive, steep, overhanging routes. While its unique features, such as the Love Bump and Knuckle Box, offer advantages for some climbers, they may not be suitable for everyone.

    The Shaman's softer rubber and the blunter toe may limit its edging ability and sensitivity compared to other high-end models. Ultimately, the ideal climbing shoe depends on personal preference and the specific climbing challenges you face.

    Pros

    • Edging 
    • Quick break-in time
    • Comfortable
    • Performance

    Cons

    • Smearing  

    Evolv Zenist vs Phantom

    by

    Evolv Phantom is on duty!

    As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

    Nowadays, I've been trying Evolv's Evo Lab-Line and posting about my experiences with these Evolv's climbing shoes.

    Today, I thought that a post devoted specifically to Phantom vs Zenist would be helpful for most of you.

    Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my La Sportiva Tarantula vs Scarpa Origin and La Sportiva Finale vs Scarpa Helix posts if you're a newbie.

    But, if you're climbing for a long time and looking for performance-based climbing shoes, then go on.

    Overview

    As a recreational bouldering and climbing enthusiast, I understand the importance of selecting the right climbing shoes for optimal performance and comfort.

    In this comprehensive comparison, I will provide an in-depth analysis of two popular options, the Evolv Zenist, and Evolv Phantom, using climbers' feedback, product specifications, and my experiences with these shoes.

    Let's explore the differences and similarities between these two models to help you make an informed decision.

    Shortly, I'd recommend you to go with the Zenist if you generally prefer to go indoor climbing, terrains which need lots of smearing. Additionally, the Zenist can handle big volume holds. On the other hand, go with the Phantom if you're planning to go outdoor climbing because it is offering more stability and support on small holds due to its stiffness and aggressive nature.

    • Quick Summary
    • Similarities:
      • Both shoes come with a 4.2mm TRAX ® SAS rubber compound.
      • Both shoes have a velcro closure.
      • Both shoes offer high performance.
      • Both shoes also come with synthetic uppers.
      • Both shoes are vegan-friendly.
    • Differences:
      • The Zenist comes with MX-R 1 mm half-length rubber midsole whereas the Phantom comes with MX-P 1.6 mm, AVT & TPS rubber midsole.
      • I said they have velcro closure, BUT the Zenit comes with a single strap whereas the Phantom comes with Compression Closure System (CSS) which is a 6-point single-pull closure for a superb fit.
      • Also, the Phantom comes with lots of different technologies comparing the Zenist. They are Dark Spine S, AVT Plastic Midsole, Molded VTR, and TPS. I'll talk about these details later.
    • Usage:
      • Evolv Zenist: Indoor climbing, smearing, the big volume holds.
      • Evolv Phantom: Outdoor climbing, small holds, steep boulder problems.

    Before talking about the details of these shoes, you might want to check the "Shoe Comparison Info Table" below which I've created according to information that I collected from Evolv. Before checking the comparison table, let me tell you how you evaluate;

    • Camber (Downturned Shape): The camber of the shoe determines how aggressive or neutral a shoe will feel and what type of climbing of shoe is better for. A high-camber (5-stars) shoe will put your foot in a downward curled position better for overhanging climbs or putting more power on the toe. A flat (1-star) shoe will be more comfortable for longclimbs and smearing.
    • Stiffness / Sensitive: Stiffness and sensitivity is determined by the type and thickness of the midsole and the softness and thickness of the rubber. A stiff shoe will support more weight on a smaller area with less "feel" when edging and a softer and more sensitive shoe will allow the climber to feel the rock beneath the feet. A stiff shoe would be a 5 stars whereas a sensitive shoe would be a 1 star.
    • Downturned Toe: A downturned toe will put the big toe in a curled position to allow the climber to either climb steeper angles by pulling on the hold. A flat shoe (1-star) will keep your toes fairly flat while a downturned-toe high-performance shoe (5-stars) will pre-curl your big toe when put on.
    • Width: Evolv classifies their shoes by wide, medium, and narrow forefoot fits. The narrow shoes will also have a lower overall volume in the forefoot and heel and the wider shoes will typically have a higher volume in the forefoot and instep. The narrow shoes would be a 3 stars whereas the wide shoes would be a 1 star.
    Evolv Zenist

    Camber

    Downturned toe

    Stıffness

    wıdth

    Evolv Phantom

    camber

    Downturned toe

    stıffness

    wıdth

    Let's dive into it!

    RUBBER

    Evolv Zenist is looking gooood!

    What I always say is rubber compound and rubber thickness are the most essential features when it comes to climbing shoes.

    Both shoes come with a 4.2mm TRAX ® SAS rubber compound. 

    The TRAX® SAS is developed in partnership with an actual rubber scientist (a doctor of material science / chemical engineering that specializes in rubber) according to Evolv.

    • Superior Friction: TRAX® SAS is known for its excellent friction properties, which allow climbers to maintain a secure grip on a wide variety of rock surfaces. This is crucial for performing precise foot placements and making dynamic movements while climbing.
    • Durability: Despite its impressive performance characteristics, TRAX® SAS is also designed for durability. This rubber compound is made to withstand the wear and tear that comes with climbing, ensuring a longer lifespan for the climbing shoes.
    • Performance: TRAX® SAS is meticulously engineered to adapt to the tiniest bumps and irregularities on rock surfaces, giving climbers the unparalleled grip and traction that Evolv shoes are renowned for.

    The differences in stiffness and sensitivity of these shoes come with 2 things which are the midsole and the technology they have.

    As I said, the Zenist comes with MX-R 1 mm half-length rubber midsole whereas the Phantom comes with MX-P 1.6 mm, AVT & TPS rubber midsole.

    The gap between the thickness of the midsole affects the sensitivity and stiffness. Also, AVT & TPS rubber offer extra support to the Phantom.

    • AVT Plastic Midsole: For sensitivity and support
    • TPS Rubber Midsole: For downturned toe and arch structure
    • Technologies 
  • Knuckle Box: Makes room for your big toe knuckle to rest in a curled position without having to push fabric and rubber out of the way which causes hot spots in other shoes.

  • Love Bump: Upon slipping your foot into the toe box of your shoes, the Love Bump will be there to support your toes as they curl into a crimped position. The design feature offers the necessary performance for sticking to even the tiniest edges while simultaneously providing toe support to minimize fatigue.

    These two features work in parallel to eliminate dead space under your toes and create a comfortable and powerful sensation out of the box! Please visit the Evolv website to understand more about how these features work.

  • Molded VTR: The VTR means VARIABLE THICKNESS RAND. The VTR system puts thinner rand rubber in areas to reduce pressure points and hot spots around the foot as well as thicker rubber for increased longevity in the high wear zones near the toe for durability and performance.

    • The other technology that I'd like to mention is Dark Spine which only the Phantom has. Dark Spine is a heel midsole that protects the Calcaneus bone while heel hooking and helps lock the heel into the shoe.

    • Quick Reminder 

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below that was made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Fit and Comfort

    Evolv Phantom is rocking!

    Let's talk about briefly Evolv Zenist Sizing and Evolv Phantom sizing.

    According to my research and experience; 

    The fit and comfort of climbing shoes can significantly impact a climber's experience. Some climbers have reported that the Evolv Zenist's heel fit is not ideal, particularly for those with wide heels, as it may have dead space under the heel that can lead to slipping off features. In contrast, the Phantom's heel fit is often described as perfect and accommodating for different heel shapes.

    However, it's important to note that the Zenist tends to run small, so you may need to size up to achieve a better fit. On the other hand, the Phantom is generally praised for its comfort and ease of breaking in, with no hotspots reported by climbers.

    Performance

    Evolv Zenist shows off!

    When it comes to stiffness and softness, the Evolv Zenist is known for being a super soft shoe, providing excellent smearing capabilities, wrapping the toe into holds, and allowing for versatile foot movements. The Evolv Phantom, on the other hand, is a much stiffer shoe, offering more support on tiny holds and enabling greater power through the toe tips.

    The Zenist's softness makes it an ideal choice for indoor climbing, particularly on big volumes and smeary surfaces. However, the Phantom's stiffness is better suited for outdoor climbing, providing a more stable and supportive experience on small holds.

    In terms of heel and toe hooking performance, the Phantom is often considered superior to the Zenist when it comes to heel hooking due to its secure, technical, and grippy heel design. However, the Zenist's softer nature allows for a more secure toe-hooking experience, despite its smaller toe patch.

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Evolv Phantom

    • Closure: Straps
    • Midsole: MX-P: 1.6mm, AVT & TPS RUBBER, Love Bump
    • Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
    • Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
    • Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
    • Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
    • Weight: 9 oz per shoe (255 gr)

    Evolv Phantom is a powerful and sensitive climbing shoe designed for outdoor climbing and steep boulder problems. Its stiff construction provides excellent support on small holds, while its aggressive profile ensures your foot is always in a power position. 

    The Phantom's well-fitted heel and comfortable break-in period make it a solid choice for climbers seeking a high-performance shoe that delivers both stability and precision on challenging outdoor routes.

    Pros

    • Adjustable fit  
    • Edging
    • Heel hook
    • Stiffness

    Cons

    • Sensitivity  
    • Smearing

    Evolv Zenist

    • Closure: Straps
    • Midsole: MX-R:1.0mm half-length rubber midsole, Love Bump
    • Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
    • Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
    • Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
    • Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
    • Weight: 9 oz per shoe (255 gr)

    Evolv Zenist is a highly sensitive and soft climbing shoe, ideal for indoor climbing and modern smeary gym problems. Its exceptional smearing capabilities and flexibility allow for versatile foot movements and superior toe-hooking performance. 

    The Zenist is particularly suited for competition-style climbing and excels at handling big-volume holds, making it an excellent choice for climbers seeking a responsive and comfortable shoe for dynamic indoor bouldering sessions.

    Pros

    • Smearing  
    • Sensitivity
    • Toe-hooking

    Cons

    • Stiffness  
    • Heel fit

    Evolv Oracle vs Shaman

    by

    Evolv Shaman with velcro

    As most of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

    I have tried lots of climbing shoe brands since this time such as La Sportiva, Scarpa, and Tenaya, and I've been thinking to try Evolv climbing shoes for a while.

    I thought that a post devoted specifically to Evolv Shaman vs Oracle would be helpful for most of you since I've tried both shoes recently.

    Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my Scarpa Helix vs La Sportiva Finale and La Sportiva Tarantula vs Scarpa Origin posts if you're a newbie.

    But, if you're climbing for a while and looking for performance-based climbing shoes, then go on.

    The one thing that I want to mention before we dive into some details, there are lots of models for Evolv Shaman such as Evolv Shaman Velcro, Lace, Pro, Pro Low, and Lace Low. These models are very similar, but they have small differences in their closure systems or volumes.

    I'll compare Evolv Shaman vs Oracle in this post.

    Shortly, both shoes are pretty good at bouldering on all types of rock, BUT they excel in some specific routes and styles. I'd recommend you to go with the Oracle if you mainly are focusing micro edging on overhang terrain or steep single-pitch routes, on the other hand, I'd say that go with the Shaman if you prefer to go multi-pitch technical routes or gym climbing.

    • Quick Reminder 

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below that was made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Also, I'd say that the Oracle has a lace closure system whereas the Shaman has a velcro closure system. These differences are affecting some abilities, such as easy on and off, adjustment of fit, and crack climbing.

    Therefore, the Shaman offers you easy on and off. On the other hand, the Oracle offers you adjustment of fit and better performance at crack climbing comparing the Shaman.

    Let's dive into the details!

    Technology

    Evolv Oracle shows off!

    I want to specifically talk about these shoe technologies. The Evolv comes with lots of technology to improve their shoes.

    The first thing that I'd like to talk about is their rubber compound. Both shoes come with a 4.2mm TRAX® SAS.

    I had some doubts about TRAX® SAS before I tried it because the climbing shoes that I've been using for a while generally have Vibram rubber compound. BUT, let's be honest with you guys, TRAX® SAS is rocking!

    The TRAX® SAS is developed in partnership with an actual rubber scientist (a doctor of material science / chemical engineering that specializes in rubber) according to Evolv.

    • Superior Friction: TRAX® SAS is known for its excellent friction properties, which allow climbers to maintain a secure grip on a wide variety of rock surfaces. This is crucial for performing precise foot placements and making dynamic movements while climbing.
    • Durability: Despite its impressive performance characteristics, TRAX® SAS is also designed for durability. This rubber compound is made to withstand the wear and tear that comes with climbing, ensuring a longer lifespan for the climbing shoes.
    • Performance: TRAX® SAS is meticulously engineered to adapt to the tiniest bumps and irregularities on rock surfaces, giving climbers the unparalleled grip and traction that Evolv shoes are renowned for.

    Knuckle Box & Love Bump (Evolv Shaman)

    Let's talk about other technologies that both shoes have which is their toe box!

    • Knuckle Box: Makes room for your big toe knuckle to rest in a curled position without having to push fabric and rubber out of the way which causes hot spots in other shoes.
    • Love Bump: Upon slipping your foot into the toe box of your shoes, the Love Bump will be there to support your toes as they curl into a crimped position. The design feature offers the necessary performance for sticking to even the tiniest edges while simultaneously providing toe support to minimize fatigue.

    These two features work in parallel to eliminate dead space under your toes and create a comfortable and powerful sensation out of the box! Please visit the Evolv website to understand more about how these features work.

    Evolv Oracle is chilling!

    The other technology which both shoes come with is Molded VTR.

    Basically Molded VTR is related to Evovl's climbing shoe rand. The VTR means VARIABLE THICKNESS RAND.

    The VTR system puts thinner rand rubber in areas to reduce pressure points and hot spots around foot as well as thicker rubber for increased longevity in the high wear zones near the toe for durability and performance.

    My brand-new Evolv Oracle

    The final technology that I'd like to mention is FSS Heel Tensioner which only Oracle has.

    Shortly, FSS Heel Tensioner is a free-floating cord bonded under the ankle and looped through a metal eyelet then back down under the rand to pull tension through the arch and lock the foot into the shoe.

    Oh, I almost forget to mention Dark Spine for the Evolv Oracle which is a heel midsole that protects the Calcaneus bone while heel hooking and helps lock the heel into the shoe.

    To sum up, Evolv's advanced technologies, including the Knuckle Box, Love Bump, TRAX SAS, FSS Heel Tensioner, and Molded VTR, showcase the brand's commitment to creating high-quality climbing shoes that cater to the diverse need of climbers at all skill levels.

    By prioritizing comfort, durability, and performance, Evolv continues to raise the bar in climbing footwear from my point of view.

    Evolv Shaman Sizing

    Evolv Shaman is an excellent choice for climbers with normal to wider feet, as it offers a comfortable and true-to-size fit. While it is possible to size up or down for increased comfort or support, doing so may lead to unnecessary discomfort or compromise stability and safety. 

    It is recommended to select the Shaman in your street shoe size for optimal performance or half a size up for a more casual fit. Keep in mind that the shoes will break in and potentially stretch up to half a size after a few climbing sessions.

    Ultimately, finding the right balance between comfort, support, and performance is crucial to ensure a safe and enjoyable climbing experience

    Evolv Oracle Sizing

    Sizing the Evolv Oracle one full size up from my street shoe size offers a snug yet comfortable fit. The full lace system is a great feature, ensuring a secure cinch even during warm-up periods when the laces aren't fully tied.

    Generally, Evolv shoes tend to run close to street shoe sizes or slightly smaller. Opting for your true size is likely to provide a performance-oriented fit, while choosing half a size up will yield a more relaxed feel.

    Overall, it's important to strike the right balance between comfort and performance when selecting the ideal fit for your Evolv Oracle climbing shoes.

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Evolv Shaman

  • Liner: Unlined
  • Midsole: MX-P: 1.6 mm Half-Length, Love Bump
  • Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
  • Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
  • Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
  • Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
  • Weight: 9.5 oz per shoe (269 gr)

    • Evolv Shaman is a high-performance climbing shoe designed for aggressive, steep, overhanging routes. While its unique features, such as the Love Bump and Knuckle Box, offer advantages for some climbers, they may not be suitable for everyone.

    The Shaman's softer rubber and the blunter toe may limit its edging ability and sensitivity compared to other high-end models. Ultimately, the ideal climbing shoe depends on personal preference and the specific climbing challenges you face.

    Pros

    • Grip 
    • Quick break-in time
    • Comfortable
    • Performance

    Cons

    • Sensitivity  
    • Edging

    Evolv Oracle

    • Liner: Unlined
    • Midsole: MX-P: 1.6 mm Half-Length, Love Bump, Dark Spine
    • Outsole: 4.2 mm TRAX® SAS
    • Profile: Downturned Asymettric with Knuckle Box
    • Rand: VTR (Thicker Front Toe Area)
    • Upper: Synthetic ( Synthratex VX)
    • Weight: 9 oz per shoe (255 gr)

    Evolv Oracle is a versatile and secure option for intermediate to advanced climbers, offering efficient performance on a variety of routes, such as bouldering, sport, and vertical walls.

    While its limited rubber may not be optimal for toe-hooking, the shoe's stiff sole, aggressive shape, and snug lacing system ensure stability, power, and reliability across multiple climbing styles.

    Its durability, comfort, and protective features make the Evolv Oracle a solid choice for diverse climbing challenges.

    Pros

    • Edging  
    • Durability
    • Fit
    • Performance

    Cons

    • On and off  
    • Heel Hook
    • Crack climbing

    Tenaya Ra vs Inti

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    Tenaya Inti is on duty!

    As some of you already know, I've been publishing in-depth information about climbing shoes for years now.

    After trying Tenaya's Aerial Plus line climbing shoes, I had a chance to use the two most popular climbing shoes of Tenaya's Balance Pro line. 

    And I thought that a post devoted specifically to Ra vs Inti would be helpful for most of you.

    Before you start to read anything about these shoes, I'd highly recommend you to check out my Tenaya Iati vs Oasi and Tenaya Mundaka vs Iati posts if you're looking for more performance.

    But, if you're climbing for a while (not a long time) and looking for climbing shoes that offer a bit of perfect balance of features, allowing you to reach great responsiveness in almost all types of climbing, and trying to level up, then go on.

    Overview

    As I said previously, both models belong to the Balance Pro line, which is known for versatility and great performance. Tenaya's designers were inspired by their Tenaya Ra model when they design the Inti. 

    Let's keep this in our mind and talk about these shoes according to this information because they have lots of similarities.

    In short, the Tenaya Inti and Ra share many similarities, making them suitable for versatile use. Both models feature microfiber uppers with cotton lining, which makes them durable. To ensure excellent grip, they are equipped with a 4 mm thick Vibram XS Grip. BUT, I'd recommend you go with Tenaya Ra if you have a low-volume foot.

    • Inti is a bit sensitive.
    • Ra is quite a bit stiffer.
    • Quick Summary 
    • Similarities:
      • Both shoes feature microfibre upper, which provides great comfort for your shoes.
      • They both come with Vibram XS Grip which is one of the most gripper rubber on the market. With 4 mm thickness, they also have some good durability.
      • Both shoes utilize a fast lacing system which is velcro and allows for easy adjustments and quick on-off.
    • Differences:
      • When it comes to differences, the first three things that can be seen;
        • Rigidity, sensitivity, and foot width.
        • Tenaya Ra is more rigid than the Inti.
        • Tenaya Inti is more sensitive than the Ra.
        • You can find a litte more room at the heel cup when you're wearing the Inti.
    • Performance:
      • I'd say that Tenaya Ra is very good at multi-pitch, whereas Tenaya Ra is good at vertical faces and friction slabs.

    Before comparing them in detail, you might also want to check Tenaya's own sizing guide.

    Let's dive into it.

    Rubber

    Tenaya Ra comes with Vibram XS Grip

    They both come with a 4 mm XS Grip. I want to talk about the additional topic of rubber because of ıts effect on shoes.

    The XS Grip is a high-performance rubber compound designed to enhance your climbing experience on any rock surface.

    With its semi-stiff nature, this material is utilized by lots of climbing shoe manufacturers, including Tenaya, La Sportiva, and Scarpa.

    Also, over the years, the Vibram XS Grip has been the preferred choice of numerous professional climbers, such as Alex Megos and Adam Ondra. 

    There are two specific features of rubber:

    • Thickness: The thickness of the rubber impact the characteristic and performance of the shoe. Especially, sensitivity and durability. The durability of climbing shoes increases, and sensitivity is decrease when the thickness is higher. The thicker rubber helps you when you're learning the footwork. 
    • Rubber compound: Both shoes come with XS Grip which is renowned for its exceptional balance of grip, edging performance, and durability, making it suitable for various climbing situations. It excels on small, challenging footholds in steep routes, friction slabs, and overhanging walls.
    • Quick Tip 

    Both shoes use SXR Dynamics technology which increases the dynamic response of the shoe improving its ability to adapt to different rock shapes and greater precision and comfort.

    Differences

    Tenaya Inti is chilling

    As I said at the beginning of this post, I'll evaluate three main differences which are;

    • Rigidity
    • Sensitivity
    • Foot Width

    Rigidity: Tenaya Ra is more rigid than the Inti. It is related to Tenaya Ra's midsole. Tenaya Inti's midsole is softer than Tenaya Ra.

    Sensitivity: Because of the softer midsole, Tenaya Inti offers a more sensitive experience.

    Foot width: Tenaya Inti offers a higher volume than the Tenaya Ra.

    • Quick Reminder

    Finding perfect climbing shoes that perform easily in every territory or every style of climbing is impossible. We have to find out and analyze the shoes that we want to use.

    Even the best climbers have more than one pair of shoes for different routes and types of rocks. Of course, they have a favorite one.

    You can check the video below made by one of the best climbers of our age talking about the alchemy of climbing shoes.

    Tenaya Inti Sizing

    My street shoe is 42 EU, and I have wide feet. I went 41 EU with Tenaya Inti and it feels very comfy.

    I recommend sizing a half-size to a full-size down from your regular climbing shoe size.

     Go with 1.5-2 size down if you like tight. If you're looking for a bit of comfort you can go with 1 size down.

    Tenaya Ra Sizing

    I recommend sizing a half-size to a full-size down from your regular climbing shoe size.

     Go with 1-1.5 size down if you like tight. If you're looking for a bit of comfort you can go with 0.5 sizes down.

    Conclusion

    Let's lay out their summarized review, tech specs, and pros & cons.

    Ra

    • Upper: Microfibre
    • Closure System: Velcro
    • Tongue: Integrated tongue
    • Lining: TXT-treated cotton
    • Insole: TST multi-layer Stretchtex
    • Midsole: 2D PLT 10
    • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 4 mm
    • Weight: 340 gr.

    The Tenaya Ra climbing shoes are designed with precision and technical climbing in mind. They have a synthetic upper, a cotton lining, and a Vibram XS Grip sole, known for its durability and ability to maintain grip on small edges. The shoe has a slightly downturned shape, providing a balance between sensitivity and edging performance.

    Pros

    • Ideal for technical climbing 
    • Durability
    • A Slight downturn allows for precise foot placements
    • Comfort

    Cons

    • May not be aggressive enough for some bouldering routes  
    • Edging

    Inti

    • Upper: Microfibre
    • Closure System: Velcro
    • Tongue: Padded tongue
    • Lining: TXT-treated cotton
    • Insole: TST multi-layer Stretchtex
    • Midsole: 2D PLT 10
    • Sole: Vibram XS Grip 4 mm
    • Weight: 340 gr.

    The Tenaya Inti is designed as a versatile climbing shoe, suitable for various climbing styles including bouldering, sport, and traditional climbing. It features a synthetic upper, a microfiber lining, and a Vibram XS Grip sole, which provides excellent grip and performance. With a moderate downturn, the Inti offers a balance between comfort and performance.

    Pros

    • Versatile for a variety of climbing styles  
    • Comfort
    • Grip
    • Easy on-off

    Cons

    • Shallow heel cup  
    • May not be aggressive enough for advanced climbers